• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About romario

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for your comment. I agree with you than when selling the value could be lower due to the lack of mortgages availability.
  2. The plot has half an acre including the property. I have ambitions to use the remaining garden for kids activities and growing your own vegetables / fruits following permaculture principals. So if decided to go for green roof that would be partially also for growing vegetables The image below is the closest I could find in google images in terms of what it could look like. However, the limitation or no existence of mortgage availability is putting me off from the green roof idea.
  3. I wonder if anyone is aware of lenders that would be happy to lend on properties with green roof. Initially due to the mortgage restrictions I didn't consider green roof. However the more I progress with the build the more attractive green roof becomes to me. The image below is showing approved design and what I am building but I've been thinking of flat green roof with raised centre part that would allow entrance to the roof. I will appreciate any comments.
  4. Thank you Russell and Nod for your comments. Both of you are right. 300mm between window and ceiling looks good and with standard ceiling height of 2400mm and standard door 2100mm all works perfect. However, the reason I have increased the ceiling height and thinking of taller openings is that some of the rooms are quite deep and so to get more light specially through the open living to the kitchen (I've pasted the floor plan below) Then with the increased ceiling to 2600mm if I go for standard 2100mm openings that will leave 500mm between the top of the openings and ceilings which I am worried that will look out of proportion. Also will not meet the first objection to get more light further into the building. Good point about the cost of 2300mm height doors. They will need to be made to measure but there are 3 sets of French doors for the whole building so shouldn't be too much. I will welcome any further comments. Roundhouse floor plan with room dimensions.pdf
  5. Hi All, After long thinking I am most likely to go for 2.6m ceiling height. I would like to ask other members what distance from the ceiling they would put the lintels for windows and French doors at that height. Would you prefer the set up on the left or the one on the right? The opening on the left would have lintel at 2330mm from the floor and about 270mm from the ceiling The opening on the right would have lintel at 2220mm from the floor and about 370mm from the ceiling The length of timber on the top is showing the wall plate. I will appreciate any comments.
  6. Hi Dave, I've been thinking of doing the same on my new build because of the low FIT. Have you considered getting batteries for storing unused electricity. I came across recently an idea of using electric car as a battery storage but haven't looked into that yet.
  7. Thank you for all the contributions. I find this forum amazing that I ask for an opinion between A and B and the conversation goes so much further and people come with options C, D and E that I haven't thought about.
  8. I would love to hear other people thoughts on deciding whether to go for stud work with plasterboards or block work. The property is a single storey and I am currently thinking of doing a bit of mix of both. Dense concrete blocks on: Walls on South facing side of the building to increase the heavy mass and for the sound insulation between kitchen / living and bedrooms Studwork on: Kids bedrooms, corridor walls, reasons for that: Easier to run any cables, safer for kids when they heat plasterboard wall comparing to concrete wall; It is a lot softer, I've done it myself Mixed filling on bathrooms. For sound insulation I would prefer block work but it is easier to run and hide plumbing pipes in the studwork. It would be great to see other people opinions.
  9. I suppose I had a choice to cut the 3m bar lengths to shorter lengths and overlap the rebars. I left the 3m lengths and went for the standing platform to slide the block down but it is a 2 people job. I've chosen the hard way but without cutting I've been filling the hollow blocks every 4 courses as I am not sure if it would be a good idea to leave them free standing on its own. I suppose they are not very strong without the rebar and infill.
  10. Not sure if this is the best place for this post. I am relatively new here just made few posts and got really interesting comments. I wonder if it would be of interest to others either more experienced or beginners to meet sometimes on the self build site for a chat, learn from each other experience / mistakes / see it in real life. I am doing my project around Dunstable (Bedfordshire) if anyone would like to come and visit I would be happy to share my lessons and plans.
  11. Below DPC structural engineer preferred concrete blocks. I could either go for solid concrete or hollow concrete and fill them in with concrete. As the wall thickness is 215mm solid concrete blocks would need to be laid flat as the largest size I could get in solid format was 140mm x 215 x 440 I understand this is due to the weight of the blocks. I suppose the cost of laying solid blocks flat and so more courses comparing to hollow blocks and filling them in would be similar. I decided on hollow because when filled in with concrete they are actually a lot stronger. Also on South side there will be quite a few larger window openings so the hollow blocks when reinforced with steel bars and concrete can be used for columns. You can see on the photo the metal bars going down right to the footing.
  12. Thanks for your comment. I've been thinking about the ICF but there were couple reasons whey I decided on the solid block work with external insulation. 1. Being my first house build and roundhouse on top there was no way I could commit to fixed design at the beginning of the project. I am a person that I can make better decision seeing the things in real than just on the drawing. Right now I built up the walls up to the windows opening and I am still fine tuning the exact locations of the windows. This wouldn't work if I went for a big contractor but because I am hands on I suppose I can be a bit more flexible. 2nd reason was that because the house had planing with external cladding anyway I preferred the idea of having the block work on the internal side and insulation on the external side (A bit of the european style:) ) 3rd reason being already unique shape I wanted to keep it reasonably standard construction for mortgage purpose. I don't know if most lenders are ok with ICF. However, when I was checking every block for the first few rows with a long timber stick sometimes I wished I went for ICF
  13. We've been thinking the same way. I exactly used scaffold pole in the centre
  14. I am in the process of planing the internal layout for the new selfbuild. I am building towards the passive house and will definitely have MVHR The layout of two bathrooms seems to fit better being located internally without having external walls and so the window. Initially I thought the window in the bathroom would be important but then the more I educate about MVHR and passive house I can't see that this would be needed at all for ventilation purpose but I suppose aesthetically could be beneficial. What are your thoughts?
  15. Hi, I've decided on Ytong and got competitive price from MKM If you need full load you can get better price for direct delivery to the site.