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redtop's Achievements

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  1. I think I would take a slightly different approach. These type of letters cost a few quid for a solicitor to produce. I would write back and simply state that the shared access has been used for many years by the residents and is listed as such in the deeds. And then ask on what legal basis they intend to stop what you consider to be legal use of the shared access route. In respect of nuisance from the build this is an issue that should be raised with the council should it occur. Now to answer properly the solicitor will have to spend some time, and his clients money, which they probably wont as they know they would lose.
  2. Not an expert enough to really known the answer.... But couldn't you construct the wall using 2 timber frames with the gap between for the sliding doors. As is, the 2nd timber frame would be on the inside and just be used to create the gap for the doors, effectively a larger service void. Yes that wall would be thicker but not really sure why it would be anymore complex than doing the same with brick wall.
  3. I started with that and gave up as its soo bloody heavy for one person to lug around
  4. Just had our elec sign off last week. I ran all cables, etc electrician checked and fitted consumer unit, he fitted an anti surge and said they would be compulsary in the next round of regulations. We also fitted rcbo's on every circuit.
  5. Leave it for now. Sometimes carpet plus underlay seems to be thicker than expected. Ours was and we had to get carpenter back to cut some more off doors. Get these fitted and if the gap is still too big, and you don't have mvhr get them back then. Even without mvhr a gap helps air flow but also encourages noise transfer.
  6. We needed nothing, just the dno bit you have done. they then fitted the meter with nothing else done. Everything else is down to the electrician. If they insist on having a consumer unit fitted first just get sparky to put a small one in cabinett with the earth rod / connection done at same time. Would take half hour to fit these.
  7. We used r45 rockwool and just stuffed the frames with it. Works a treat at reducing sound transfer. I am sure there are better results, but this was quick easy and the end result is good enough for us.
  8. So we painted our house ourselves. Used dulux, leyland F and B matched and another coy that matches F and B. Then got some F and B for a small room. Sorry, but it defo looks better, miles so. It has a matt, chalky like finish we havnt seen on any other paint. Considering the gazzilions the house has cost to build, most of which you never see, spending more to get the best paint finish / look you want seems like small beer to me.
  9. I just used Acoustic Insulation, the rockwool r45 stuff in the stud walls and between floors. Standard plasterboard, upstairs also is double decked, so 18mm OSB and then 22mm chipboard on top. That was down to a screw up by me. Carpet upstairs too. Anyhow, very little noise transfer compared to any other house we have owned so well chuffed
  10. We used to rockwool 45 in the timber partitions, floor between ground / 1st floor and IMHO there is far far less noise transfer between the rooms than other houses we have owned. I wouldnt do it any different if doing it again tbh.
  11. And microwave on, few laptop chargers, kettle. But I agree, thats why we have diversity. I would 3 phase as well to future proof.
  12. If you don't apply diversity its very easy to say you need more than 100amps. Sparkles tend to apply diversity when calculating cable sizes, loads etc as a standard. Are you sure he is a sparky? Having said that, ashp, elec cooker and car charger and its very easy to exceed 100amps if you just add up the total loads
  13. We havnt put mvhr in, Air tightness at 4 and trickle vents. With Double the min levels of insulation and top quality double glazing house doesn't need a lot of heating anyway. When looking at the benefits most people compare with a standard build to min BC regulations. Half the air leakage and double the insulation and the benefits are far more marginal. Sure it would be even less with mvhr but the biggest gains are insulation
  14. We decided against it due to the weight, aint light for a 1 man lift
  15. Honestly pricing up any cheap options still adds up to several hundred quid and a shed load of effort. The gaffer wanted something to provide more wind protection anyway so may as well bite the bullet and do it properly. Anyone want to buy a load of stainless wire crimped to tensioners.. 🙂 if I cut it at one end there would be several metres for each wire (30 wires in total) someone can use for a shorter run, just cut to length and re crimp a new end piece. Seriously someone can have it for price of postage.
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