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About redtop

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  1. yes, new installation so all circuits are rcbo protected
  2. Top plan, and I only need to worry about being 50mm deep if I am outside of the safe zones? FYI I am running 1st fix, sparky hss given me instructions but just checking a couple of bits. He will then come and check before we pb.
  3. want to use rockwool acoustic slab to help soundproof the internal timber stud walls. Does this mean the cables dropping to light switches and sockets will need derating. Must be a really common issue, how don you get round it?
  4. Brill, will take a look. Thanks everyone
  5. Just about to start 1st fix. Going to run cat 5 around the house, terminating in a Ethernet front plate when I get onto 2nd fix. Do these plates fit onto a standard 35mm metal back box, the ones you use for light switches and single sockets? Taaa
  6. Oh, a new tool for me to look at 😀 any good?
  7. Ime doing it this way, one manifold, and one big benefit for me is I can run each pipe as I get round to that part of the build. Makes sense if self building and living in it as we go!
  8. Laid a 22mm chipboard floating floor, sits on 25mm PIR. Used 25mm battons at door entrances and now find the floor rises a few mmm at the threshold. Short of cutting and lifting the offending area, could I sand /plain the board down to remove the Hump. Its the 22m p5 stuff
  9. we havnt moved in yet, but in the current / previous houses we always sleep with the bedroom window open, winter and summer as we like a cold breeze when sleeping and cant ever remember turning a radiator on in any bedroom in any house we have lived in.
  10. if I was doing it again I would remove fancy angles (we have a hall that has 2 walls coming in at odd angles). Just makes everything from the floor, to the walls, to the roof harder and more time consuming. Also introduces a lot of waste material which is odd shaped and cant be reused. I would also try to make all the lengths / heights work so we could use full boards (2.4M, 1.2M, 0.6M) saves loads of waste and time.
  11. we used propassive OSB on the inside which removes one layer. Also used the solid woodfibre boards on the outside (140mm) which contributes (how much I don't know...) to the wall stiffness, gives it mass as well as insulation, not meant to need to wrap that with vapour control layer but we did. Only issue so far, for a self builder, is the woodfibre boards are bloody heavy to handle on your own at height on the upper walls! Ive had to resort to shoving them out through the window openings and onto the scaffolding. No way in a million years I could get up ladders with them. Hoist would work but that's a lot of time. So woodfibre:- no problems with skin irritation, bit messy to cut cos it clogs the saw loads and very heavy to lug around on your own. prob takes longer to wrap house with it than it took to build the timber frame.
  12. agree that would be really difficult. we have gone with a standard mortice lock due to being in the middle of our own 2 acre site so the main security are the access gates, not the front door. Also really really crap access helps deter thieves lol
  13. cant see why this is an issue at all TBH. We have just received our front door from howdans and they come as standard with no lock, or hole for the lock (we also ordered the lock, hinge, etc we wanted). Frame, door and locks will be fitted and all's good. Cant ever see how BC would know or care if the door was supplied without the lock pre-fitted. Lock / hinges have the relevant security marks, so alls good
  14. redtop

    underground Gas

    just did this a few days ago, dead easy. got an instant quote, paid for and booked in. wish other services were so simple!