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Found 42 results

  1. Hi, I'm currently renovating a house on Skye, typically in Scotland, the window recesses have check reveals. I'm looking at getting Nordan Alu-Clad Windows. Problem - there are check reveals. I want to get rid of the old timber in the recesses, the house built mid 70's I think the original Windows (long gone) attempted (badly) to close the cavities. I want to install the new windows the way the house was originally built - front face of window frame tight up to inner face of external block leaf. Problem would arise where window fixing straps/brackets are used. They'd either have to be bent a lot to reach the checked reveal thereby making it difficult to install Insulation on the reveal, or could I pack out the inner reveal with something like compacfoam and fix the brackets/straps through that and into the edge of the inner block leaf. We get some wild weather now an then so like the Windows to be recessed nicely. If I can use something like compacfoam, could I continue it into the Cavity to the inner face of the outer block leaf in order to close the cavity? Or do I make a timber frame to fit the inner block leaf window recess, fix that into the reveal then fix Windows to that? So many different ways of doing this, I'd really appreciate input as to what's the best course of action. TIA
  2. Hi, I'm currently renovating a house on Skye, typically in Scotland, the window recesses have check reveals. I'm looking at getting Nordan Alu-Clad Windows. Problem - there are check reveals. I want to get rid of the old timber in the recesses, the house built mid 70's I think the original Windows (long gone) attempted (badly) to close the cavities. I want to install the new windows the way the house was originally built - front face of window frame tight up to inner face of external block leaf. Problem would arise where window fixing straps/brackets are used. They'd either have to be bent a lot to reach the checked reveal thereby making it difficult to install Insulation on the reveal, or could I pack out the inner reveal with something like compacfoam and fix the brackets/straps through that and into the edge of the inner block leaf. We get some wild weather now an then so like the Windows to be recessed nicely. If I can use something like compacfoam, could I continue it into the Cavity to the inner face of the outer block leaf in order to close the cavity? Or do I make a timber frame to fit the inner block leaf window recess, fix that into the reveal then fix Windows to that? So many different ways of doing this, I'd really appreciate input as to what's the best course of action. TIA
  3. Hi all, I have seen quite a few old threads, comparing costs of different manufacturers for glazing (specifically we are hoping to get 2g aluminium clad timber). I have studied the old threads in great detail and approached a good many companies that have been mentioned for glazing quotes. The biggest issue I have had, is that when I think I have been applying directly through the websites of individual manufacturers, (Velfac, Internorm, Rational, etc) I have then been referred on to local "partners"/ "agents", consisting of only one company, local to me who supplies all these brands. I am worried that this rather takes away the competition element, to help drive down quotes, if all my options are being supplied by one company. 🤔 Have things changed over the last few years? Why do I seem unable to go direct to the majority of manufacturers (exceptions have been Nordan & Munster - although seeing the reviews for Munster I don't think I will go through them!)? Is it the area I live in (Devon)? Or have I gone the wrong way about getting quotes i.e. do I need to ring them rather than filling in online forms and attaching my plans?
  4. Question: in my barn conversion I have some existing opening which will become windows. But, when I measure to get quotes is it the size of the hole that I use, i.e. if the hole is 1m x 0.8m then is that what I use and the glass is smaller. Or, do I allow for the frames myself.
  5. Original house contained cheap UPVC windows that were ill fitted and would not match the new windows in the two extensions. So the decision was made to fit new windows throughout with the original plan to go for alu-clad wooden, nut resorted to UPVC due to cost and worries on how some of the alu-clad windows were constructed. Surprising how difficult it was to get quotes that were in an affordable category. Some companies needed numerous follow-up calls which was very frustrating in view of the fact that I would be spending approx £20k on their product. In the end, although I would have preferred to buy local, I ended up sourcing windows from abroad which ended up costing a lot less than anything UK-sourced and also meant they were passivhaus certified! Pity how many sectors in the UK shoot themselves in the foot by atrocious service which is partly down to them not wanting to deal with end clients/self-builders. There was a lot of email ping-pong, but I think that would have been the case with UK windows too, but they were at least keen to do business which didn't seem to be the case with many of the UK ones. The only area I was hesitant about was measuring the window openings which was further complicated by the fact that I was using special EWI brackets which would position the windows outside of the window opening itself. So I had to take into account the bracket measurements in addition to the window openings. I must have measured each opening at least 15 times before submitting my final order. Glad to say everything seems to fit (just 3 doors to fit now). Unloading some of the units was a bit precarious especially the 800kg 4.6x 2.3m slider using a standard forklift and then travelling 200m down the road! I got a local window company to help me fit the windows and of course they had no clue how to fit them with the EWI brackets. It took a while for them to admit that the client knew best in this case as he'd actually read the bloody instructions. Means I'll have to rectify their first window later on. External view: Next stage on the exterior, is to EWI all walls with circa 100mm insulation. Note the brackets above (this is the first window and the bottom bracket aren't fitted correctly, so will need to be fixed before EWI). The brackets will cause minimal thermal bridging at least and certainly be better than having a timber frame constructed all round the window frame. The external aluminium cills (sourced from Germany, cheaper and thicker than UK suppliers) will fix onto that bottom mini (grey) cill at the bottom. EWI will tuck in under frame (well all sides of frame of course): and will marry up with the insulation I plan to add under the internal cill also: My next job is to get started with the internal plastering, so I'm looking at how to detail the internal reveals and cills. My plan is to insulate under the cill also. Cavity wall will most likely be filled with PIR where I can force it down or EPS beads (with a bit of PVA). I'll then fix 60mm PIR board to the now insulated cavity wall using PU adhesive. I'll have to channel out a bit of the PIR to accommodate the window brackets so the board sits flat: I should have enough clearance then to fit a wooden cill on top of the PIR. Not sure how best to affix that to PIR. Maybe the plasterboard reveals will sit on top of the cill and help pin it down. Probably overkill with the EWI, but my intention was to also insulate the reveals (see grey EPS example above) with 20-25mm PIR board and then plasterboard over the top. Just need to leave sufficient space to get at the internal beading in case the glass ever needs replacing (sons and footballs....). The other consideration is to decide where to stick the air tightness tape. Initial thought was to stick that on face of window frame and onto brickwork before I stick down the PIR board. But how well does the stuff stick to clean brickwork? I could add a further layer of tape from window frame and stick to top of PIR board before the final cill goes down. I'll try and post some drawings up here later on. Not great, but some of the intended detail:
  6. We have recently purchased a 1bed ground floor flat located in a terrace and are looking to remove the existing (poor quality) rear extension and erect a new 6m long full width extension in its place. As you will see from image 3 (attached) we are hoping to create a new bedroom within the new space. This bedroom would be entirely internalised as it falls within the building line of the upper floors (shown in blue on image 2). We would like to ensure that light does get to this room and are looking whether the solutions would be to insert clerestory windows within the building line (roughly sketched out in image 1 - attached). I have a couple of queries regarding this solution: 1) Is it acceptable in planning and building regs terms that the only windows serving this new habitable room are (likely unopenable) high level clerestory windows which would not provide an escape route in case of fire, or manual ventilation. 2) The property is south facing and receives great sunlight all year round. What are the chances that the Council (Wandsworth) would object to these types of windows on daylight/sunlight grounds 3) Structurally, are clerestory windows going to work in this instance when the majority of the existing wall will likely remain in place. This is our first home (and project) and any help this community can offer would be greatly appreciated by us.
  7. Is there a way to verify or get some reassurance about U-Values quoted by suppliers? Thanks Andy
  8. Hi folks looking to replace dreadful 1970s aluminium windows in our victorian house, we are looking at putting upvc sash windows back in to try to bring the house back the way it should look,we have seen rose windows version all three price ranges, but want to know has anyone one out there had any dealings with these windows or had any problems with them?.we have also found on line Rehau window which look OK but haven't seen any in the flesh as yet to compare to rose windows, anyone got any good information regarding which of the a bove is proberly best to go for? We know it's not going to be cheap 😣as the bay is nearly 6ft. Don't worry the doors going too. 😉 Regards jason.
  9. Hi all, New member here! I was wondering if anyone could please offer some advice for some potential solutions: we are having issues with rain water coming down onto the wooden windows, sills and the door and rotting the wood. Could anyone suggest what could be done about this? I think guttering around the roof would be a solution, I don't really want to add a canopy to the door as I don't think this would look great. Please see the images attached! Thanks
  10. Hi, Has anybody got any recent quotes from Norrsken or Rationel Aura Plus windows? We are looking at 45 sq m of glazing and need them to be alu timber clad and triple glazed. Trying to work out supply and fit price per metre. Also, what sort of lead times were given to you? Appreciate any help!
  11. Hi - I recently came across this platform and was interested to read some of the content. I have been involved in high performance building fabric solutions for over 30 years and have an inherent interest in low carbon building specifically off-site manufactured building systems together with low energy window and door solutions. I am looking forward to reading further contributions and hopefully providing some useful content. :-)
  12. I'm close to picking a window supplier and hence spent the last few weeks looking at windows. We have aluclad and had planned standard grey 7016 on the outside as it seems contemporary and the safe bet. However part of me wants to buck this trend, its a bit boring and I don't want it to be just same same. I'm not looking for anything extreme like cool pink or anything...but something that will add interest, fit with the setting and stand the test of time. Anyone done anything different to grey? Any pics. House is rural Scotland, very large plot with a render finish and siberian larch cladding. Its meant to be white render but now I'm even thinking I want a different tone here too.....
  13. Overall it went swimmingly well, couple of minor issues but soon resolved and need to return to sort out a handle issue but John Knight Glass were, IMO really great and for final sign off we wait for contact over next couple weeks when someone else comes to site to check everything with us so enough time to raise any snagging issues hopefully. Despite some panic on the canal bridge when the trailer was about 8 inches off the floor, everyone held their breath when the glass got over successfully. The other option being discussed was asking CRT who were dredging at the time to transport them to us. Although that didn't happen, I'd of been quite pleased to see that 😁 The windows we picked were the aluclad UPVV studio KF320 windows and KS430 sliding door and we are more than happy with them. A couple from work in progress. It was nice as the sun was setting getting some pictures of the house today, finally with the windows.
  14. Any one having issues with Rationel door external ironmongery rusting ? these are under 4 years old ,Rationel won't replace saying ....
  15. Hi there, I'm in the process of a wee project in our house. We are thinking of moving the kitchen into the dining area, removing a non-load bearing wall, dropping windows down to the ground. Getting a bit frazzled by it all....hoping for ideas, support and experience from members of this forum
  16. Hello, I am going to retrofit MVHR in 1930s semi and this also goes hand in hand with getting new windows. The question is: are windows with airtightness class 3 sufficiently airtight to allow MVHR work efficiently or do I need to get windows class 4? Any experiences?
  17. For a fixed window (external, non-opening), is there any reason in principle why one could not skip having a window frame altogether and mount a triple-glazed "sealed unit" directly in to the aperture created in an exterior timber wall, perhaps with only a minimal bracket for fixing purposes? It strikes me that frames are expensive, complicated, (sometimes greatly) reduce glazing area, and are designed mostly to enable windows to open. And frames also have comparatively poor U-values (even for Passivhaus windows) than the glass they contain. Problems I can imagine: Sealing and ensuring water runs off properly. Coping with differential heat expansion (bang goes the window on a hot day!). Access to swap the sealed unit if necessary. Undoubtedly, there must be something fundamental that I am missing. Please enlighten me.
  18. Hi Folks, Going round the bend here trying to decide on what type of windows we want to install on our upcoming new build. We thought we were all set for timber windows however we have been suggested by our potential builder that using uPCV windows will save us a huge amount of money (approx 20k). Saving this amount is critical for us and may even mean we can actually start our build. However! As per usual its a constant battle between myself, contractor and architect. The architect is adamant that timber windows are a far better option given the superior thermal properties (which i don't dispute) of timber and also that the profile of timber windows will be much thinner than uPCV - something which I am not entirely convinced with - perhaps someone can clarify from experience? A big factor which is swaying me towards uPVC is we are located beside the coast and it concerns me even though we upkeep and maintain timber windows the salty air will eventually win the battle and turn them into a rotten mess - like a lot of other properties in the area. With our location in mind we did consider AluClad however we are reading conflicting information regarding the suitability of these on the coast in that the Aluminium will corrode if not treated properly - again adding to maintenance costs like timber windows. Has anyone got any experience on choosing a material for your windows in a coastal location? Any information on your decision and end result would be a huge help for us!
  19. Hi there, Hoping for a bit of advice from anyone who may have Rationel aluclad windows. Ours were installed this week and look great, but my better half is slightly (very) nervous about the wood finish in the bathroom (we went for clear lacquer finish). Anybody who has had the aluclad windows for awhile, who perhaps has any words of comfort/tips on maintenance? Thanks in advance!
  20. Our VELFAC windows are being delivered next Wednesday and our VELFAC approved installer, E R Aluform, has just advised they're ceasing trading as of today. We paid them a 50% deposit. Please no abuse on why we agreed to pay them a 50% deposit for the installation; I'm feeling rather fragile and would be grateful if anyone can offer any advice on what to do— whether we can recoup the money? and / or who can fit VELFAC windows at such short notice. Thanks in advance
  21. Soon after our windows were fitted last September we noticed two defects in one of the large panes. We were told this was part of the manufacturing process and one of the risks of getting a large pane of glass. The pane in question is about 3 m x 2 m. We have 12 such panes of glass in our house and none of the others have any defects. Other than this window, we are absolutely delighted. At the time we raised it with the UK distributor of the windows. They agreed it was unacceptable. They raised it with the European supplier who noted it was part of the acceptable defects that may appear in a pane of glass this size. Now that the walls of the room are plastered and painted, the sun reflects through the defect and puts a rather hideous shadow onto the wall. Does anyone else have any defects on large panes of glass? Are such defects normal? Windows are aluminium clad, triple glazed. Supplier and distributor shall remain nameless, currently, as I dearly want to get this resolved. The only resolution for me is a replacement pane of glass, fully paid for by the supplier, including transport and fitting. That would be honouring our original contract in my opinion. We have been offered a compensation sum of about a 10th of the cost of the entire window. The windows were very expensive. I don’t want to wake up to that shadow every morning. Photos show the shadow on the wall and also the view out of the window when the scaffolding was in place showing the distortion in the view. Any thoughts welcome please.
  22. Hi All, I am currently doing my timber frame drawings and sorting out window opening sizes etc. and it got me thinking about the installation - the plan is to get the timber frame up and install the windows almost immediately to secure and weather-proof the extension long before the block-work goes up around it. I know it is common practise to install windows into the frame before the masonry goes up so I wondered if anyone has an installation detail or some good photos showing how they sit exactly and the sort of depth into the cavity they sit. I don't want to install them then find I have them in the wrong position. I was on a site recently and I saw how they had installed them, albeit from a bit of a distance and it appeared to me they had done this: Typical timber frame sheathed in OSB and wrapped in a building wrap, then circa. 50x50 rough treated had been attached to the outside of the opening round the timber frame, so basically like a picture frame over the top of the building wrap, this I assume was to acct as the cavity closer, the cavity was 50mm, so my assumption was that the window was then going to be installed flush to the outside edge of the 50x50. Then, when the masonry went up, the back brick face would be hard against the 50x50 (as you would expect a cavity closer) and the masonry would be brought right up to the edge of the window frame. The render would then go on thus "sealing" the window in and a bit of mastic at the end (as appears common on new builds around all doors/windows) to seal the UPVC to the render. Does this sound correct? Would you attach band to the window and then fix it from the inside of the timber frame? In theory it sounds fine to me but I just want to check. The next question is the sill, the supplier can supply me with a stub sill or longer versions. Do I get the sill, then build the masonry up to the underside of the sill, bit of mastic and job done? Or should I be thinking about a proper concrete sill to the top of the masonry? I will be able to ask questions of suppliers and people involved when I get there but I need to get some of these things clear in my head before I start the frame drawings as it could make a difference to exactly where I place a window to ensure I get get a whole block or brick up to the bottom of an opening etc.
  23. Our windows arrive next week and the window manufacturer is also installing them for us. The final payment is therefore due soon after completion. I have been told by them that the VAT is payable up front and I will be able to reclaim at a later date. However, I have also heard that if I submit an invoice for such a claim it will be rejected as it will be considered to be a wrongly charged VAT invoice. That is, the VAT shouldn't have been charged in the first place and therefore can't be reclaimed as a result! What is the collective's view on this? Thanks.
  24. I'm having an MBC frame with Velfac windows and a Parex render on my new house. Whilst they all promised to liaise with each other re: final aperture sizes at the time of booking, it's less than a month before we start and no one is willing to take responsibly for the final size of the windows. Velfac say MBC's aperture sizes need to be adjusted for the battening, cementboard and render as this needs to be done before the windows can be installed. The render company will not promise an exact thickness, and MBC are trying not to get involved. How do I ensure the window sizes are right?
  25. Is 3g worth the investment over 2g? We have a lot of windows and doors, including sliders etc, altogether we're looking at 200m2 over 70 items. I've had around 10 quotes now and the feedback from the window companies has been to stick with 2g (possibly because they know it's cheaper and therefore within my budget) however, it seems the majority of you guys have 3g and you all seem to know what you're doing! I would say that my main priorities are equally: Quality (highly rated, long warranty etc) Aesthetics (They have to suit the contemporary style of the house, the slimmer the better) Cost (I'm trying to get a LOT of house for the money so would be glad to just get the shell made, sealed and clad leaving the rest to be finished bit by bit) I've had quotes from all the main players mentioned on here selling Alu clad as well as some Aluminium frame companies and there are many pro's and cons with each. Initially I was pretty set on 3g but I simply can't ignore the potential additional cost, it could be the difference between getting the project started right away or waiting a while longer to save up the necessary funds. I'm even considering flush casement plastic windows as they look pretty decent but I'm yet to be convinced. Ultimately, this is our forever home and as such, I really don't want to make a decision I'll later regret. P.S - We're not building a passive house but it will be as air tight as we can make it (ICF construction married to brick and block)