Mr Punter

@Bri44 if you put an @ before someones username you can chose it from a dropdown list and they get a notification. I don't think this is a building regs issue but one of workmanship. Your builder could have left bare earth 150mm below dpc and if would have been OK. If they fitted the decking and astroturf it should have been installed correctly. From the pics it looks like it is rotten and it needs to be removed. I am not a fan of cheap softwood decking as it only lasts about 5 years and looks crap after 2. Perhaps suggest that the developer makes an offer of payment in settlement of your claim and you can go your separate ways.

@NeverEnoughCake I do not understand why you would not have a mains power connection when it is available for £7k, which could possibly be reduced. Is there an ideological or personal reason behind this, or some other motivation?

I have in laws up there and have visited a few times. I first went about 30 years ago and many of the same people and families are still there. The house we stayed in was like camping in a stone tent. We got a boat over. It is a beautiful location.

There have been a couple of recent articles in the national press about housebuilders defects so this could be of interest. You have lots of photos so perhaps contact the papers / websites with your story. I am a developer and I am keen that this sort of cowboy practice is driven out as it ruins the perception of new build homes.

I am sorry this one did not work out. There are a few very odd people at large.

A mains angle grinder is pretty cheap and quite useful.

Architects are also more focused on things like safe access for window cleaning than used to be the case, and they may suggest inward opening or reversible ones that can be cleaned from inside. Again, this is partly PI prompted, but it is no bad thing.

This happens quite frequently and is easiest to resolve with a decent conveyancing solicitor. The LR seem pretty quick at responding, so I do not think it should take too long, although it can take a few months for the amended plan to be registered. I had a fairly complex one recently where the registered plan showed some parking in slightly the wrong place as we shuffled them about at a late stage to accommodate service runs etc. We had to transfer some small parcels of land between 2 titles / owners. Legal fees were £3,500 on the time record but we agreed on £2,000. It was a bit of a pain but we wanted to make sure all the plots on site had and accurate plan. I am not sure if you are able to exchange contracts and delay completion subject to the LR issue being resolved?

At the time Building Control insisted on the non com which was only available from one supplier at huge cost. I would have preferred cement board cladding but planners wanted timber. Waste of money as it was only a field in the neighbouring site.

It was really expensive as it had to be sent across the country to have the fire retardant applied vacuum impregnated.

I have done some cladding with this. The splinters were awful and took about 2 weeks before my hands were back to normal. The timber was treated with non-com fire retardant, which may have added to the issue, but get a sample to check. I got this from Vastern in Wootton Bassett, but best to shop around.

@pocster if you have the depth you could get a sand / cement screed laid at 75mm which could work out cheaper and will take tiles without needing to prime or clean.

I have bought some Siberian Larch from Vastern Timber near Wootton Bassett. They do other cladding as well. If you want eco, Sweet Chestnut seems the thing. If you want it to look like your picture you will be up there every 2 years coating, stripping and pampering. Probably more fun just to take on a mistress.

Are you considering a pair of semi detached? It may be an easier way to gain consent, then try for 2 x detached later.

It is only brick and block on the ground floor and no big panels. The project is finished and he picked this up on a final inspection. I may end up cutting down some of those micro weeps and just sticking them in a little way if I have to. I could understand if it was further up the wall, like a meter box or a lintel, where you want to direct any moisture outwards, but these are at DPC level.

The vents are on top of the dpc so I can't figure out how any water would make its way to a weep hole instead of just running down the telescopic vent and ending up under the beam and block floor.

I have just had a visit from a warranty inspector and he said I needed a weephole above each airbrick. The airbricks are on the DPC with no cavity tray above or below and they have telescopic vents to the underside of the beam and block flooring. This is brick and block. The cavity is fully filled with rigid insulation which extends down below DPC and is sculpted around the telescopic bit. Should we have the weepholes or are they not required?

I do not think this is a party wall issue. I would not bother serving a party wall notice as it will cost you time and money. The council could in theory apply for an injunction to stop you doing the work and you may be liable for their costs, but I very much doubt this would happen.

If your new foundation does not extend below the current foundation I think this is outside the act.

Yes already have. It is well understood by all. That said, we have a table and chairs on a balcony and a small child of a visitor was very soon climbing on the chair, one foot on the table and leaning over. Same child at home is allowed to jump all over the furniture.

1.1m is fine. It is the same standard height required for a balcony handrail.

Maybe it would be cost effective to have 50mm pir sheets against the blockwork and fill the residual cavity with bonded graphite eps beads.

I don't think the doors are not made Velfac which is why they are not fitted the same as the 200 series windows. You can drill the frame or fix some cranked steel plates to the outside of the frame and fix these to the walls. Packers around the frame to make sure is is held straight / plumb. Rehang the door and make sure it swings nicely, then foam the inside and mastic the outside.

Strip all the crap from the walls. Cut out the crap bit of ceiling and replace with MR board. Dry the room properly for a couple of weeks. Fit an extractor with a timer wired to light and set the overrun to 20mins. Use the blue grit on the walls after they have properly dried. Re-tile with cement based adhesive from a bag. Grout to finish.

I am not sure what the deal was with your firm but there is the danger that the drawings were done on the expectation of the firm then being engaged to supply the timber frame so they may argue that your licence to use the drawings would be extinguished. Have you asked them?