Mr Punter

Hilti gun fastenings are used a fair bit for metal ceiling systems.

We have in the past used 75mm blocks for slate hanging and 100mm for render so they match depthwise.

Are you no longer having the roof as a drive-on area? Also, are you planning on doing a plasterboard ceiling under the concrete?

@pocster I think he is asking if you are going to suspend people?

If it were me I would spend more on a better area. Maybe a small cottage in a decent village where you could extend would be a better bet. You will never make money in a poor location.

This is so typical and as per the other thread it is because nobody is made responsible for specifying, designing and installing this that it so frequently get omitted. Generally with rainscreen cladding you are supposed to have a strongly ventilated gap from bottom to top of your cavity. This is very much at odds with the principal of cavity barriers, which prevent the flow of air (and fire) between each storey of a building horizontally. You can get intumescent firestopping that expands when heated which would work for the horizontal, but it is very costly. I got some from Envirograf. It is also sensible to have some vertical barriers to restrict spread of fire around the building so you could divide it up near the corners for example by stapling the red sausage vertically. The fibre cement is a good move. It is also good to have fire retardant breather paper, but you will normally get what you are given by the t/f co.

@ultramods it looks great. For me it would take some getting used to the small prep and serving space, toaster, radio etc but there is a decent amount of storage. I am hoping there is somewhere for a bean-to-cup coffee machine, otherwise I will not be buying.

No issues at all with this, especially as they are non-loadbearing.

No. Remove the unsafe wall and replace it with a fence. If you are concerned, email highways informing them of your intention.

I have used Guttercrest in Shropshire to supply ali stuff. If you give them a call they may be able to put you in touch with someone to install.

The installer's insurance should cover this. If they are criminally negligent, ceasing trading would not remove personal liability.

Just seen what else they make!! I am sure you have space for a few more... https://www.siegersystems.co.uk/products/thermally-broken-floorlight/

If you have different cladding and you want to maintain a flat finish between them you may need to increase the batten size for the render. Hardie also do starter trims, corners etc in varying depths.

You can often just clad the existing timber with the powder coated aluminium.

@Triassic did you get a design and spec for cavity barriers / fire stopping?

Oak worktop might also work for you as treads. How are you fixing them? Have you worked out the weight of steel in that thing?

It would be possible to separate the air flow from the rainscreen and the roof void. Having fire resistant breather membrane on the timber frame would also help. Once the walls are alight the roof would not be my main concern. I have used the intumescent stuff between dwellings in a terrace but it is very expensive and probably not needed here.

75mm stuff is easier to cut, but you can always foam the edges. I have noticed a difference in the foil facings where some of the wrinkle up but I don't think it makes much difference which brand if it under concrete or screed. If the concrete has mesh you will be fine. Get it specced by your SE. Sometimes there can be a point loading issue if you jack up a heavy vehicle.

Surely it would be the plumber who was negligent though, as long as the main contractor checked he was gas safe and insured?

So if, for example, an unvented cylinder explodes because it has not been installed correctly, who is to blame?

Interesting that members here have variously blamed the site manager, bricklayer, building control inspector, bean counters and the MD of the building firm. If the responsibility to get this designed and fitted lay solely with the timber frame contractor the issue would probably not have arisen. I can't imagine how it would be if things like structural design, gas connection and boiler commissioning was just left to anyone on site, regardless of any subsequent inspection regime.

You can remove the wall and replace with a fence as long as you are not listed, conservation area, PD rights removed or covenant in your deeds restricts this.

I like an upside down house. You can have underfloor heating with pretty much any floor type. The downside with beam and block is that the underside is ventilated to outside so when it is windy the slab will get colder than if it were ground bearing. It may be handy for a slope though, especially if you cut and fill. Be very wary of solar gain. It can be a real problem, especially if you have south-west or west facing windows upstairs. I would not bother with UFH on the first floor, just rads. We have an upstairs kitchen and the rads are rarely used.

There is no need to flex muscles. These fire barrier omissions are made out of ignorance, not for cost saving.

The issue with the firestopping just affected timber framed houses. The reason it is being omitted is that nobody knows who is responsible for specifying and installing it. It should be part of the timber frame design and install package, same as truss clips, joist hangers, holding down straps etc and all can be inspected after timber frame erection is complete.