Mr Punter

You don't need the same firm for all the windows as for example you may get sliding doors from one and casement windows from another. As long as they are broadly similar they will look fine. Munster Joinery have had a few positive mentions, but may be hard to get to quote. Vertical sashes are quite unusual nowadays. Why are you keen?

We are a developer and have just spent £2,145 per metre excluding land purchase on a development of 1184m2! South East county town. Not really a Buildhub record as we are not self builders. This is at the very top of what we have spent in the past and was a very tricky town centre site with 3-4 storey terraced housing. GDV around here is about £5,000 per metre.

If you read my previous post you will see that the Codes of Practice rule out having the support posts carry on to support the handrail. They give you all the information you need for a competent design.

It is also worth checking the size of the meter as this can also be a bottleneck.

Hi @Jilly When you got you approval did it include a condition removing your PD rights (something like "Notwithstanding the provisions of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development)Order 1995 (or any Order revising, revoking and re-enacting that Order with or without modification), there shall be no enlargement or extension of the dwelling(s) hereby permitted, including any additions or alterations to the roof, without the prior written approval of the Local Planning Authority.")? If not you may be able to do the extension anyway and if so you may want to apply to vary the condition.

These Codes of Practice should give all the information you need for the specification and design, giving span and load tables, connection types etc. They cover balconies >2.4m from ground and raised decks. tdca_cop_balconies_e32018.pdf tdca_cop_raised_timber_decks_e62018.pdf

The bit I have highlighted needs to be part of the landing.

We used the low iron for a flood wall where we wanted a clear view of the river. The glass was 25.5mm toughened and laminated and would otherwise have looked fairly green.

Remember you will need a condense drain from the unit. Make sure you have enough room the get the unit through the hatch and into position. The roof space is not that access friendly so make sure it will all work. Must have been a mission doing the insulation!

Stitch drill with a masonry bit.

The floor layout is still bonkers IMO. Am I reading it that to get to the kitchen you go up 2 steps from outside to the front door, then down 4 steps, then avoiding the new diagonal steps you turn right, go up 3 steps, turn left in an inner lobby then through a door and the kitchen is at about the same level as where you started?

What a great improvement. Do you have floor plans?

I have specified low iron glass in the past where the glass was thick and I did not want any green tinge.

Yes, get them amended ASAP and submit as updated drawings ASAP superseding the others.

If the previous developer had PP for the whole site the consent may be locked in for all by just starting one plot. If you stick with what is there you will be constrained with layout and possibly need to build cavity wall with limited space for insulation. Does not look like all the floor has been grouted so you can mess about with pipes without too much damage.

Unroll over the blocks with the "inside" facing up.

Part B fire safety

The room.

As long as it is less than 50% of floor area it is OK, so a feature wall, not the whole room.

The intumescent clear coatings are v. expensive and I am not sure you will get the finish you want. Unless you have a high percentage of the ply, don't worry about surface flame spread. Feature wall is OK.

I would suggest the brick pattern is much easier to have running horizontal. Work out where your cuts will go so that you don't have little slithers of tile. You may need tile trim for the exposed edge by the window.

I think tiling the roof will be more of a challenge! If you are doing vertical cladding as shown you will need vertical battens fixed to the timber frame, then horizontal battens fixed to the vertical. I did some 25mm x 50mm horizontal battens on a radius of 3800mm. I soaked the battens and pre-bent them. They were for render board finish.

Were they not clearly marked out with plastic tape stapled to the breather paper? I can't think of many contractors who would undertake this. Is it just the one elevation or the whole thing?

I would go for 30mm inside the blockwork, fixed with straps. Gives them something solid to sit on and pack out from. We have some IdealCombi windows and they are about 130mm deep, so the glazing should be well within the insulation. @romario how are you fixing your battens for the timber cladding? 150mm plus batten thickness is a sizeable fixing.

It is OK to have inert rubble under the suspended floor. Make sure it is OK with the piling contractor as they sometimes need special support for larger rigs. If there is any topsoil I would remove it.