Mr Punter

If it is encased in concrete it will resist corrosion. Just a post in the external walls should be galv or stainless.

I think you will need some reinforcing under the column bases. It depends on the soil type. If they were just pads they may need to be 1000 x 1000 x 300 with 2 layers of A393. With your slab you could just place this locally as long as the thicker bit is fairly wide. You need proper base plates on the columns and grout under.

I think you could push back on the fibre cement. If you use one without an embossed grain it could be identical to smooth painted timber but without the maintenance, the shrinkage or the fire hazard.

The STA guide is really useful. I have had some big TF manufacturers just supply a load of plastic sock mineral wool barriers that get dumped on site and not installed. This is one of those areas that used to fall through the cracks as it was no ones responsibility.

Do you have to use a beam and block floor? An insulated ground bearing floor or slab foundation would be good if conditions allow.

If your house is properly insulated there will be no real point in having underfloor heating upstairs. Maybe have a rethink. What is the issue you have with sound transmission? This may be easier as more than one post.

It is a bit annoying but not a huge sum. The house looks really good by the way.

SIGA are a big firm and seem fine.

You are definitely doing the right thing photographing and documenting every defective area as it is exposed. Make sure there is some context so you can see where it is on the building if / when it gets rendered over or otherwise covered up. Maybe number the photos and have a drawing or photo showing where it was on the elevation or plan. If you continue presenting evidence they will probably be more inclined to settle, as the house looks too bodged to repair and you will appear too determined to stand down. Is there a cash sum that you would accept in exchange for releasing them from their obligations, or is full refund your aim?

I think the cement based ones look less hassle than the gypsum / anhydrite ones. No messing if you want to tile or stick down floor finish.

The council did say " they have made their assessment in line with the relevant legislation and custom and practice in terms of such changes in accordance with Article 3 of the Council Tax (Chargeable Dwellings) Order 1993. " I assume that is the relevant law and that is why no arrears are due.

Have you got fascia / soffit / gutters / downpipes in? Saves a lot of water running down the walls / into the house. With the big opening, could you cover the top bit just to stop water getting too far in? If you have a chipboard floor it is worth sweeping the water out after a downpour as it won't like being submerged for weeks on end.

Yes to these. Don't let the cables get soaking wet. There is a fair amount of work getting this lot in.

Self closing doors are no longer required in a house, other than between house and a garage. If they need to be fire resisting they should be FD30. If you have the wiring for smoke detectors it would be a good idea to install them. I recommend Ei3024 Multi-Sensor Fire Alarms.

Patination oil, when applied to new, stops it going white.

Another vote for hook fixing. On vertical they don't rattle in the wind.

Agreed. The way they do this stinks of dog's piss. They are like double glazing sales from the bad old days. White Gold!

Just get planning consent and build a proper house.

A 10mm gap at the bottom seems de rigueur for building control. Be a shame to set them too low and have the shave the bottom of the doors.

Is there any chance to include a soakaway or permeable paving?

I think that is full fill cavity insulation. Because the boards are rigid it is important that they are fitted correctly - tightly butted and all in the same orientation. The one in the tpp is fitted in the right orientation but I cannot work out what the DPC is doing. The drawings for these products are often really sketchy for details like air bricks, DPCs and wind posts. The gaps between insulation boards allow cold air to freely circulate which may be one reason the house is cold. I would halt all works and take them to court. Maybe your household insurance will cover legal costs.

I think we know - not at all. I have used Ipe for decking. Apparently no too bad in terms of how many get felled, until you learn that they will fell a massive swathe of trees to get to one Ipe and drag it out of the forest. Tropical hardwood is not sustainable.

I agree it is crap but lots of mass developer housing is. Missing insulation, incorrect DPCs. They normally go for very simple designs but when they try something more challenging it does not work with the monkeys they use.

Please do not praise him in that aspect!

I have had this on a bamboo floor and I got thresholds made up with the same material. They looked fine and were only 15mm high and was a spec development which sold quickly. God knows what your guys will do.