Mr Punter

If they thought there were inaccuracies they could ask for updated information, issue a refusal or ask you to withdraw the application. They should not just remove it after it is validated.

I think they can easily skim walls on a 4m x 3m room in a day, so at 2.4 high that is 33.6m. At rate quoted that is £395, so double day rate.

Firstly, a drawing would be useful. I have had a reinforced slab with a stainless steel angle cast into the edge to build brickwork off. Would that work for you? It was done by Abbey Pynford. I am not sure if they would supply the brick support separately.

I bet the guys working for @nod would be keen to skim the walls at £11.77 per metre! They included bathrooms but not kitchen. You can see that in some areas such as plastering / boarding, tiling and decorating there is a great deal of labour cost and this is how the more hands on people can build at lower cost. Unless you are keen to put in a lot of work I think you need to budget £400k all in.

Why not get the roof slated straight away? I would rather the roofers did the battens as well. You could just fit some temporary battens, so they don't need to fit the membrane.

But the wall plate sits on the masonry. I would def make sure it is treated.

Also, you may like a DADE https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXDADE.html

You will need a soil survey. With ICF you cannot see the concrete so you will not know if it has faults or voids. Type C internal drained cavity membrane with sump and pumps is considered the lowest risk for basement waterproofing.

You get loads of credit for reduced thermal bridging. You can get proven lower psi values with Keystone Hi-Therm+ lintels and apparently the best value way towards your SAP targets. If you go ahead with them, order them well in advance as they are not a stock item.

This is a standard condition. Look at other planning applications for Sutton and see how they have discharged the condition. PV is an easy way to comply but your energy assessor should know that. Biomass gains almost nothing so maybe your assessor is not so good.

Option 4. It will be cheaper and simpler to start again. Your access issues will be at an end. You could set up a mini tower crane.

For me it looks far too complicated and the aesthetic does not impress, especially not the exterior. The workmanship and execution are excellent but he has gone to a lot of trouble for no real purpose other than achieving something difficult.

I would tap around the crappy looking bits with the corner of a bolster and see what falls out, then fill in with a matching mortar. Unless you get driving rain against this wall it is unlikely to cause issues. The bricks do not look porous.

Where they are this would see them get blackballed from the Rotary Club. The very thought!

OK thanks for the figures. For your income, this will need to be reflected on your tax returns for the last 3 years. For the sake of this, assume you have a total of £1M. You could look at sites on the market at between £300k and £600k. Rightmove has these withing 40 miles of Greater London: https://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/find.html?locationIdentifier=REGION^87490&maxPrice=600000&minPrice=300000&radius=40.0&propertyTypes=land&primaryDisplayPropertyType=land&includeSSTC=false&mustHave=&dontShow=sharedOwnership&furnishTypes=&keywords= You could refine the search with keywords, but it will give you and idea of what is available. I doubt you will find any bargains on Rightmove but is is worth looking at what looks OK, just to get your eye in. Existing houses to replace are also an option. You can often double the size with the replacement. As you have the income and the energy, you may be better off doing this now rather than waiting five years. Life is short.

Our posts crossed above. The main info now is how much input / how hands on your are likely to be?

(a) Calculate how much you can borrow. For a rough figure assume you can borrow three times your joint income. (b) Calculate how much cash you can put in. Add your savings and your equity in your current property. If this figure is less than 25% of (a) you may need to save more or borrow less. (c) is your maximum all inclusive budget from (a) + (b) . Let us know (c), where in the country you are and how much work you would be able to do yourself and we can have a stab at what you could build.

I am also keen on hook fixing. It stops any rattle and makes sense to have the tail of the slate held down. Even if the slate were to crack (which is less likely than with nails) it will not slide down off the roof on onto who or whatever is below.

Use CT1 to stick the profile to the wall, but you could use silicone as it is screwed on anyway. Use silicone on the outside of the profiles.

25 x 50 with trusses at 600 ctrs is standard here.

I bought a plot a few years ago with outline pp. The plans consisted of 1:1250 identifying the site and a 1:500 (I think) that just showed the outlines of 3 detached dwellings on the plot. Elsewhere we have wanted to gain outline PP and have been told by the LPA that a full application is required.

My brain or fingers confused this. Cut back, wait for new growth, then spray. If you need to clear a site, spray a couple of weeks before you remove the weeds, so the roots will die and no new growth will regenerate.

This has al the makings of a crime thriller plot. Did the buzzard have a Russian accent?

It looks like the plan was done with an etch a sketch (not a simple rectangle, but well worth seeing what @Rmawdsley has to say.

I would agree with @SteamyTea here, as he knows a good deal about this, and I know very little!