Mr Punter

Boosters are a bit crappy and tend to throttle the signal. Cat 5 or 6 cable from the hub to near where your signal is weak. I have 2 x ubiquti unifi ac lites serving a 4 storey + roof terrace and get seamless wifi everywhere.

So has that ridge tile you showed in the pictures with the big gaps been sorted?

Regarding point (1) yes get this properly engineered and approved before you start. Point (2) Thames water should allow you to discharge into the sewer, (if you cannot do soakaway, watercourse or surface water sewer) albeit you need to mitigate as far as possible. I have done this in the past. I can't help with (3) and I doubt I ever could. I have just gained PP for a site and will hopefully start in about 2 months but chalky site on mains drainage and I can get TBS electric albeit at stupid expense.

You don't need the DPM.

Anyone fancy calculating the maximum viable board thickness? Or do you have better things to do? Insulation board is normally metric 1200 x 2400.

The membrane is only there to stop concrete escaping between the board joints bridging the insulation. A few holes will make no difference. You could just tape all the joins.

Looking at the BBA cert it may be best to clip the mesh to the insulation through the vapour barrier and have the mesh above centrally.

If you have a decent SAP person you will pass. There is no test at the end other than airtightness. Sometimes using different lintels can help the SAP rating for thermal bridging.

Hello @Buzz. You have come to the right place. There is loads of useful information here. Do you have a construction type in mind? Where about are you located? Are you going to be fully hands on?

I go for about 10mm and I rest the sheets flat on a bit of insulation. I have tried the only just through and it doesn't seem to cut as cleanly.

I prefer medium density aggregate blocks. They are inexpensive, easy to fix to, easy to render / plaster. Have you worked out the difference in heating costs with the aero ones? I suspect insignificant.

@Hilldes can you post the BBA cert as I cannot find it? You should have DPM / vapour barrier on the warm side (top) of the insulation.

You are certainly a perfectionist and you are at least aware enough to see that it is not reasonable or great for your mental health to be so particular. Most people - especially men - obsess about things in a slightly irrational way. Lots of things that happen on site are far from perfect and you are certainly not on your own when it gets to you. Maybe drink more so the shoddy work looks more bleary? Works for many on here.

What you had on the drawing looked fine. Quite why you are looking at 190mm concrete I have no idea. Polythene over the insulation. 75mm concrete with mesh 25mm from bottom would normally work. Ties the pipes to the mesh. How much is the floor costing?

Unless the made ground is overlying clay there should not be heave issues. Ask them why they are included and if not required you could deduct the cost.

About 55%. Depends a bit on if you first fix inside before. Also you may have a timber frame with windows and roof fitted but no brickwork / gutters etc. Service connections can be costly.

I had a request from someone to connect drainage onto land owned by us, where the local water authority showed their pipe on our land. We had our own development plans so declined to allow them and after much sulking they did a pumped connection some 75 metres long. Had we agreed it could have really curtailed our plans and we may have been responsible for any damage caused to their pipe. They may also have been able to access in the future for maintenance / repairs which would have been unacceptable for our future purchasers.

I now live in a new house and it would easily overheat with an Aga. No heatwave required. So will yours if it is built properly. My Aga was in a cold Victorian detached with solid walls, so it was nice to come home to.

I have had one of these and I would advise DON'T! Sweltering in the summer, crap to cook on, expensive to run.

Another vote for option 5 rev A. Perhaps replace the door with a pocket door if it will mostly be left open. Replace the table and chairs with a fixed banquette 1800 long back to the wall 500 in from the end wall. You could do the smaller room size like option 2 if you wanted. You may get the sink on the same run as the hob with the larger room option, then you could try @AliG's run of tall units. Keep the peninsula but move it towards the folding doors so there is 1000 between end of worktop an end wall. Keep the worktop all the same height.

The photo shows stuff that looks about 5mm thick. Normally screed is between 30mm and 80mm. Yours looks like a levelling compound laid over an existing floor. Dig a bit out and see.

Is this the only eating area? As others have said, you would need min 1000mm between the island and other run. You will be hurdling the dishwasher door as you have it. Options 2, 3 and 4 you cannot get to the folding doors unless you reverse them. This is worth a lot more fiddling with to make it work. Is the sink waste catered for?

Can you fit a non return valve on the pipe if it is liable to surcharge?

Had you been more specific in the OP than and I would not have commented as I did. Are you interested in house size, planning issues, orientation, access and parking, energy efficiency, profit and end value? If you ask a specific question you are likely to get more targeted answers. You seemed to be inviting general comments, which you got.

That is right @Moonshine. Even some of the self builds here sail close to the wind, but the HSE normally only get involved if there is a serious accident, a death or a report of dangerous practice from the public or other bodies.