Mr Punter

Aerogel but it is crazy money

This looks similar to yours https://www.classq.co.uk/Permitted-Development/Ridlington-Barns

It looks like you messed with the safety catch on the hook and it bit you on the arse. Why are you having a heavy shower tray suspended over the area where you are trying to work? You're lucky not to be wearing it!

You will not easily remove the bottom rows of slates. If you want to do the job, strip them all, starting with the ridge tiles, then re-fit after you have fitted the new GRP valley.

I was reading on the Savills site that you class q rights can act as a fall back position which may help if you want a new build https://www.savills.com/blog/article/273146/residential-property/class-q-permitted-development-rights---where-are-we-now.aspx CLASS Q AS A FALLBACK POSITION It is established in case law that permitted development rights can legitimately represent a fallback position when considering alternative proposals for development at the same site. This was the case in one of our recent projects where, after having secured Prior Approval to convert a Dutch barn to a dwelling, planning permission was subsequently achieved for an alternative development involving the replacement of the Dutch barn with a larger and more valuable new build dwelling, creating an unencumbered ‘self-build’ plot in the countryside to present to the market.

That sounds good value. Have you seen his work or spoken to a customer? I really like good quality LVT when it is neatly fitted to a properly prepped floor.

You may be overthinking this. Make sure the cavity trays are higher than the top of the roof and have a decent weep hole at the end. It is sometimes tricky as you may have the brickwork up a long time before the sloping roof. On existing buildings BC sometimes just allow a coat of silane / siloxane on the brickwork above. Lots of connies get put on existing houses and stepped cavity trays are out of the question. I don't hear too many horror stories.

If the smoke surrounds the house it will be in the loft too. If you have the supply air from the loft you may get some stale air from the house and some smoke from the neighbour, but if it is easy to do and reversible it is worth a go.

The roof has been extensively repaired. If it is not leaking I would leave it. When it comes to repairs you may need to strip the slates, new membrane and battens and finish the flat area in GRP.

Yes with most of these the builder is liable for the first 2 years. The policies often also cover for the builder going broke in that time. I have spent about £40k in premiums and nobody has made a claim.

I think the bricklayer can make these from DPC but better just to buy the pre-formed ones. They are good if there is a decent area of exposed brickwork above, but the building inspector may want them in any case.

I have seen some examples where there the building is like an open shelter and they have allowed the conversion. Can you post a picture?

I have not read the whole thread. Did you see the one with Mikeee5 on GBF? If the smoke is around higher up at rooftop level can you lower the intake? If your loft has clean air, that should work.

I had a corrugated asbestos garage roof replaced with insulated steel / plastisol. You need a new lintel / beam along the front. In Sussex I used http://www.icroofing.co.uk/specification.html

I think it is PD but worth getting the LDC just in case. Someone I know got a LDC for a load of dormers to some houses. He did not realise that PD rights had been removed when the houses were first built but the LDC meant that the council could do nothing about it.

You also need to check it is not locally listed or in a conservation area. You will need planning consent for the replacement before you demolish.

Well played Triton!

Look for used ones on ebay

How are you going to remove the straps and the bubblewrap after this is on the ground? Surely this can't be so heavy that you can't lift one end or a couple of people to help move it into final position? It is not Stonehenge you big jessie.

I think the US ones may be easier to read. Will your SE accept it?

How do you know the strength, pull-out and fire resistance? If they have been properly tested your engineer may be happy to spec them.

I thought you were doing charcoal grout?

The 50mm PIR should be OK. There more insulation around the steel the better. ROckwool can sometimes work OK if you need to fit into gaps. It is quite common to clad / flash the reveals then Compriband outside, foam inside and seal the inside polythene vcl to the frame before plasterboarding.

Nope

We are now firmly into First World over privileged smug middle class territory.