Leaderboard

Yes, we moved into our new house on Monday last week, pretty much 9 months to the day since we broke ground and 15 months after we purchased the plot. We know we’ve been very lucky with our build. The weather has generally been in our favour and we had no supply issues or delays. Above all, we’ve had some excellent people working for us without whom we could not have achieved the build. There are too many stars to mention here but if you look through the blog you will see them all get a shout out for their excellent work as it happened. Ahead of the move, Mrs P. did a superhuman job getting everything packed, and the move itself went relatively smoothly, with dry weather and no mishaps. Amazingly, Mrs P. also managed to unpack most of those boxes within a few days, though we do still have some residual boxes to deal with in due course. Moving in day: As we all know, moving house is always a stressful business and moving to a new house is no different. But it is a relief to finally get in - there is always the nagging fear that some disaster will strike at the last minute while the house remains unoccupied. But of course, all was fine. Is our build complete? Not quite. We have some minor electrical and joinery items outstanding, both inside and outside; we have the garden landscaping well under way but some distance from completion as you will see from the photos below. Beyond that, there is a list of jobs of the sort you’ll have following any house move: curtains, blinds, wardrobes, shelving, etc. - but these are ‘house move’ rather than ‘house build’ tasks imo. We do still have to obtain Building Control sign-off and there’s a VAT reclaim to do. On the BC front we had our ‘As Built’ air-tightness test performed by Richard Harris of Peninsular Energy Compliance this week (highly recommended). The result is 1.16m m3/m2 at 50hPa on the envelope basis. Virtually the same figure for Air Changes per Hour , as our envelope area is 583m2 and our volume is coincidentally 580m3. We are very happy with 1.2 ACH. Air-tightness test under way: We have been in the house for a week now and we are really happy with the way it feels and works for us. It’s warm, draft-free, well-lit, quiet, and comfortable; the layout and spaces are working just as we hoped. We are both sure we are going to really love living here. The plant room is (to me) surprisingly warm, running at 25-26 deg C due presumably to the amount of heat-generating equipment in there. I raised this as a separate Build Hub topic but the consensus seems to be that it's not an issue, so I shan't worry. As a side benefit, it does make a splendid clothes airing room. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/46744-hot-plant-room/ Energy use The combination of solar panels, batteries, ASHP and insulation levels seems to be working well - in our first week we used 0.7kWh from the grid and exported 63kWh. Not bad for February. I need to work out our best tariff option but that’s a job for the future. Enough talk, time for some more photos (some taken just before we moved in)... Kitchen/dining/lounge: Hall: Bathrooms - master ensuite: Shower room: Guest ensuite: Bedrooms Master bedroom: Guest bedroom: Bed 3 / hobby room (Ok, so we still have some unpacking to do.) Landscaping - plenty to do yet. The layout is literally as clear as mud to me... I'm sure it will all be fine in the end(!) And finally... Troy likes the new house - it still has yogurt pots that need licking out Dashboard: Contractor days on site this past two weeks: 15 Contractor days on site since build start: 587 person days That 587 days is well over the 500 days which requires HSE being notified of the build using form F10 (which we did). HSE have not spoken to us or troubled us at all and the F10 notification is simple and costs nothing, so I would recommend any self-builder do so - if you are unfortunate and have an incident it’s surely means less chance of getting into hot water if you registered properly. Budget: I confess that in the final weeks we have gone a bit beyond our self-imposed budget contingency and dipped slightly into savings, but that is really down to choices we have made about the quality of the fit, e.g joinery, kitchen, bathroom equipment etc., and also the extent of the landscaping we have chosen to do. We could probably have remained well within contingency had we needed to but luckily we had some leeway. Plan: We did it! Conclusion: Overall, we set out to use the entire proceeds of our previous house sale to buy a plot and build a better house, and we believe we have achieved that. Thanks once again to all the dedicated and skilled people who have worked on our house and made the build a success. Especial thanks to Mrs P. who indulged my yearning to do a build provided brilliant design input and kept the whole show on the road throughout - a truly wonderful person! That then dear friends is the final blog! Thank you for following us and for your kind words of encouragement and support through our project.

If you’re not driving the digger then your opinion doesn’t matter. if you have an experienced operator and a good groundworker then they will know exactly what to do. don’t interfere too much, sit on the dumper or work the laser, but trying to over manage lads that do this every day won’t go down very well. You won’t know how the corners will hold up until you start, you might come across a big patch of loose backfill,have the shuttering to hand you will dig all that in two days, you need a site visit the second you get 4-5 m of trench to full depth. you do not under any circumstances want to have to go back over it, so you need depth sign off the same day you start. what do you mean by shutter and pour multiple times. that all needs digging in one go and pouring in one hit the following day.

There is a bit of terminology to learn. Energy is measured in MJ (megajoule). A joule is the standard unit for energy and when converted to base units of kilograms, metres and seconds is very small. Why the M for 1,000,000 is added at the front. Now no one, apart from us nerdy scientists, use MJs, and domestic energy is metered and purchased in kWh. MJs can be multiplied by 0.0007778, or divided by 3600 to end up with kWh. The k just means 1000, W is watt and h is an hour, which is 3600 seconds. Power (W) is the rate that energy is used. You can think of this as your miles per gallon in your car, with energy being how many gallons are in the tank. If your car does 40 MPG at 60 MPH, and your tank has 8 gallons in it, you can drive 320 miles over 5 hours and 20 minutes. A unit of power is called a watt, which is actually a J/second. Again a small unit, so a k is added. A k is 1000. This gives the more normal kW for a power rating. Boilers, heat pumps and even wood burners all have a maximum kW rating i.e. 6 kW. Radiators, UFH and fan heaters also have a power rating. (This can get confused by some people talking old imperial units of BTU and BTU/h, but we went metric in ,'73, so tell them off) Where it starts to get confusing is a house will need a varying amount of thermal power to keep it at a steady internal temperature. This is caused by external temperatures rising and falling during the seasons and even during the day. This can be overcome in a number of ways. The easy way, and the way old heating systems were set up, was to fire up a boiler at full power, heat some water, pump it around the house to all the radiators, which then heated the air. When the house was up to temperature, the thermostat turned the boiler off. When the temperature dropped a few degrees, it turned the boiler back on. These days we are a bit more sophisticated and try to deliver enough energy to match the losses. This keeps the house at a steadier temperature, and used less energy overall. You will almost certainly read on hear about weather compensation (WC). This is just a basic feedback system that knows what the outside temperature is, how much power is being delivered to the house and for how long it may be needed. All that can be boiled down to a few numbers. The main numbers you need to know are the thermal losses for each room. Once those are added together, you get a number for the whole house. It is usual to size for a worse case i.e. -10°C outside. This gives you a maximum power requirement (heat source kW). Most of the time, you will be heating the house when it is way warmer outside, so the second number you need is about how much the heat source can be turned down internally. This is called modulation. Gas boilers have quite a high ratio, sometimes 10 to 1 i.e. 12 kW down to 1.2 kW. Heat pumps are not, generally, so good and are often in the range of 3 to 4 to 1. There are ways around this, but that is for later. The other thing that is important is domestic hot water (DHW). There are two ways to do this. Heat water only when it is needed (instantaneous), this requires a lot of power, often over 25 kW. Or Heat and store in a cylinder. This method takes longer for the same amount of delivered hot water, but used less power, often in the region of 3 to 6 kW. If the heat source is delivering both central heating and DHW, then this needs to be taken into account. With modern combination gas boilers, they are sized to deliver enough hot water, and rely on boiler modulation to deliver lower power for the space heating. Heat pumps, generally, rely on being only slightly oversized (which improves efficiency most if the time) and run a space heating time slot and a DHW timeslot at different temperatures and different times during the day. There is a lot of detail in heating design. So questions to ask are. Maximum house losses. Room by room heat losses. DHW reheat times.

The glazing units seal has failed, allowing moisture into the gaps. Only fix for triple glazing is to replace the glazed units with new. As they are so new, you should be covered by the warranty, and these should be replaced FoC

Stock piling is seldom a good idea. It ends up being in the way, at risk of damage from operations and the weather, and needing double handling. Nearer to the time of need, ask the BM if any increases are forecast, and maybe avoid 10% cost and store for a few weeks. But I did this recently with insulation. And we had to shift it to suit a change in plan. The handling cost prob equalled the 10% saving. Then there is cashflow. The VAT cost is sitting there needlessly. Spend your time in saving material altogether, through design reviews and planning.

Have you considered splitting the house so kitchen dining runs front to back instead of along the back?

Best of luck @-rick-.You have a good heart, and a good heart these days is hard to find. (quote F S) I just can't see you winning this One. However, well done for trying. Most of the above has been tried before, by other well meaning people.

I'm not a user, but https://www.sunsave.energy/solar-panels-advice/exporting-to-the-grid/best-heat-pump-tariffs

I design stuff like this. There are many options. Best advice I can give you is to get an SE on board now, even if to provide a watching brief. If you don't then you introduce significant cost risk and uncertainty. You know there is a potential issue so the sooner you get that under control the better.

Ok that sounds like a good move. Here is what I would do if I was you. Find the best and well repute self employed 3CX digger driver with their own machine that works local. Pay the extra. Get them round and ask them how to do it! Ask them how they want the found marked; inside, outside, centreline or all of the preceeding. Assume the weather is going to be pish and some marks get lost by accident. Set some pegs well outwith the dig so if the marks get lost you can run a string line to get you back on track. Work out what you are going to do if you hit soft spots. An experienced digger driver is going to be your best friend here. They may also say they will pitch up during the pour and can use the back actor to get the concrete in place. Make sure you take plenty photographs. Be careful not to over dig. There are some horrible examples on BH where over dig happens and it just makes things ten times worse, they fill with water, hit even softer ground deeper down. Go and have a look again at what your SE is expecting in terms of ground conditions. If in doubt ask. Ask your SE if they can be on the end of the phone or just come to site if you get stuck. Yes, I know you probably don't want to pay for an SE visit but at the end of the day it can save you a pile of worry and cash. You only get one real chance of making a good job of this so don't take daft risks. Take time placing any reinforcement mesh.. many ground workers just fling it in.. and you pay for it.. but it is worse than useless if not properly placed.

If you have got the next stages planned in, with contractors lined up, and building regs / warranty people giving the OK to your proposals, you could go ahead. It is not monsoon. It has rained in this country before. You are not made of sugar.

The US dictator will lose interest in Iran quickly - he doesn’t have much of an attention span.

I offer our floor plans, as your house is almost the same size and shape as ours. Context. North is up. Front of house is north facing so at the top of the plans, garden is to the south and West mainly with good views to both. We have an addition of a single storey sun room at the back and a single garage on the east end of the house with a room above it. Things we particularly like. The double aspect kitchen diner as noted before in this thread. That opens to the sun room at the back. The Lounge looks out over the garden to the back / south. The double doors from both main rooms to the entrance hall that when open make it almost one large space. Almost no space wasted with corridors and a simple un cluttered layout. There were some minor changes to the bathroom / en suite at actual build but only minor.

The rear aspect to the garden can be from the lounge and kitchen dining for the garden, and you also can see if people are arriving at your house to the front from the kitchen area, it’s just nicer to be able to do that in a house imo. If you think about it, you spend more time sitting in a lounge looking to the garden, not dining and cooking. you want your lounge on the back, not the front. where you have the WC/Shower is a bit wasted to be honest, not a fan of that. I’d rather just commit to a proper bathroom than mess about with a nothing room with a toilet and 2 doors. Everyone can use the bathroom rather than no one ever. Bathrooms are expensive, make the most of them. so yes, you come in the front door, put your coat in the cupboard, then use the WC. Kitchen on the left, lounge straight on. It just makes sense to me that’s how people use a house.

Better to invest the same amount of cash in defense and medical shares.

indeed. and it is the contractor who would be in very big trouble for not declaring the income. The IR know when annual returns look imbalanced and the VAT computer spots anomalies too. Plus taxes do have a purpose. That customer is probably going through life complaining about government services, and the brown envelope brigade because that is what they would do. 'How much for cash in hand?' Oh just allow a 5% handling charge.

It's funny the cash in hand malarkey. From the other side, it's so common for me to be asked by customers if I'll do the job cash in hand. I never do jobs cash in hand because they're the ones that show up the nature of the customer - they want cheap cash in hand deals but at the same time also want all the regulatory sign off and building regulations notifications is incredible. And they want all the back-up as and when suits them. As a trade, you need your wits about you to choose your customers wisely too!

Lost track of websites visited, videos watched. Glad I asked here

Normally you will leave the battens short of the window opening so the air can flow round. Like this:

100mm is fine, as long as what it's on is not crumbling etc.

Yes, so the paper manuals and guides I used for all my basic training are (no great thermodynamics knowledge needed with these, thankfully 🙂). The underfloor heating design has lots of tables to referencing outputs and floor temps etc. and dovetails in the the CIBSE industry guide for sizing and designing heating system. The low temp guide has lots of easy win nomographs which can save a lot of time for ballpark figures: This links into the above question. As the output of the floor depends on pipe spacing, it seems weird that we can just discount that in design and just not worry about it? Output depends on the balance of several factors, including spacing flow rates and flow temperature all together. The calculation regarding the output of buried pipes is actually quite complex calculation, simplified here in this image: If you have significant transfer across the centre lines, then you're going to have problems with the balance of system output. Here is some images from a much more detailed hydronic books, which illustrate correctly varying the pipe spacing - look for example at where the spacing it closer at certain external parts of the rooms (this is also covered in the ufh design book above but to a much lesser detail: These and the illustration of pipe centre lines are from Modern Hydronic Heating & Cooling by John Siegenthaler. It has a very detailed section of UFH design, but the book costs nearly £100 and it's all in imperial so you need a way of looking up the metric constants etc. for SI unit conversion. HTH

Hi, Was going down the route of Sips build with vaulted truss roof, contacted a few companies and picked a company for the kit that assured me they would build me a nearly passive house and build it in an efficient manor with no hidden extras, they told me in second week in January drawing for BC would take about one week, to cut a long story short nearly eight weeks later no drawings, very poor communication, I found another company and now going down total TF design with same U-values as SIP’s, price is 12k dearer but includes all windows and doors, all walls inside, fully plaster boarded inside, I phoned the first company to speak to the director who I could never get a hold of and spoke to the receptionist to say I had lost confidence in them, surprisingly he phoned me back in five minutes and totally understood my decision and apologised for lack of communication and said he was sorry for the delays and could not find an engineer that could do calculations for the steel work, I told him that I was sorry but if things are going wrong at this stage then I cannot let you continue with my build, I am now really glad I have swapped TF supplier…

All modern traps are "top" or "self" cleaning, which means you don't need access to anything other than the basket and trap that you get to from above.

Dunno if it's in the spirit of the forum to disclose company names? @Buildhub Moderators can delete if required. These are windows from NordVest. Have checked warranty detail. 2 years parts & labour, 5 years glazing & labour; further 5 years glazing but no labour....just shows how variable warranty can be. Perhaps I should have looked into this in more detail when choosing a supplier. But the headline "10 year warranty" seemed comparable with others. Doesn't fill me with joy for the long term. However they have accepted the warranty claim with fairly minimal fuss (a surprise based on previous issues). So new glass is on the way.

Exactly. There are chances and hassles I'll take on for a personal project, whereas for a client I'd accept the norm. I've been challenging the easy norms for decades. It results in better knowledge, the good ideas becoming standard details then improving every project thereafter. The bad ideas rejected and knowing why. Back to the original post. We don't want heat loss from the hot pipe, especially to the cold pipe. I considered the @SimonDproposal for a bit, using the insulated pipes in a duct... if it ever failed they could be pulled out and replaced with uninsulated pipes. This could be a good standard method where there doesn't happen to be 300mm of insulation. But the 2 subbies are now on board my way so it will go alright. I've even found 2 lengths of so-called barrier pipe with the magic layer of coloured plastic... it's just normal pipe. The guidance above is sensible. Building moves and pipe fails? wont happen: each pipe will be continuous so no joints. They can move within the eps. They are 150mm below the screed so won't be screwed into. The ends will be apparent as the pipes will pop up into view. If ever the pipe needed changing, there is tile, screed pir.... not destructive. I know this is ott, but we have this opportunity to exceed expectations. As for the bco... they trust us. We welcome any query. When we adopt novel approaches we explain. If necessary we present it formally for their files. Only my time has been expended and I am foc And your time for which thanks

Such an important bit of advice. Most bolts are overtightened.

I have forwarded the UFH stapler to @Great_scot_selfbuild

Not needed as it refers largely, if not entirely, to fittings. No fittings = common sense can prevail. Probably spent more time typing this than installing 2 pairs of both solutions though, lol. Self-building at it's best (worst?), eg set fire to £500 worth of time solving a £300 problem. Then multiply!!

Yeah, pull the other one. You'll be swearing for a month of Sundays getting it straight and keeping it straight even if it is lay-flat. So you believe the marketing blurb of these but not the technical documentation for MLCP? Well, here you you go. As it's going to be in insulation, the 9mm thickness will be absolutely fine? What diameter would you like sir? 16 Blue and Red https://www.plumbingforless.co.uk/plumbing/unipress-mlcp/unipress-mlcp-pipe/unipress-50mtr-mlcp-16mmx2.0-9mm-red https://www.plumbingforless.co.uk/plumbing/unipress-mlcp/unipress-mlcp-pipe/unipress-50mtr-mlcp-16mmx2.0-9mm-blue 20 Blue and Red https://www.plumbingforless.co.uk/plumbing/unipress-mlcp/unipress-mlcp-pipe/unipress-50mtr-mlpipe-20mmx2.0-9mm-red https://www.plumbingforless.co.uk/plumbing/unipress-mlcp/unipress-mlcp-pipe/unipress-50mtr-mlpipe-20mmx2.0-9mm-blue Oh, and here you go, Wolseley, pipe in pipe Mlcp: https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/uponor-mlc-insulated-pipe-13mm-25-x-25mm-50mtr-blue/ And it confirms that: This Uponor MLC 13mm, 2.5mm thick pipe-in-pipe is designed for integration into a building structure and can be safely covered with screed. Withdrawn without causing structural damage, this water regs compliant pipe-in-pipe is supplied in 50M lengths. Product features Suitable for hot and cold and heating systems Suitable for recirculation hot water systems PE-X material construction Meets BS EN 13501-1 Complies with water regulations 1999 Any decent plumbers merchant will be able to order some in from one of the multitude of manufacturers out there and the good thing is that it's often cheaper than standard plastic PEX of Polybutylene. But hey ho, go with your barrier pipe...even if the world is moving on.

An update. Mrs BB made up a paste of Bicard of Soda and a little water. Applied it to the offending handles with a finger. The washed off with some warm soapy water. Before: After: (dusty at the top due to work I was doing today)

I think you've just described properties in the opposite of the order most people put them in. Most people will think less about spending huge amounts of money on kitchens and bathrooms, but will then skimp on a heating system, unless it's a flashy column radiator..

They are mural shower panels from Showerscape: https://www.showerscape.co.uk

Most self builders on the forum had no issues with their BCO and MVHR. My BCO rejected my first self certifying report as the Anemometer had no proof of being calibrated, (used the Buildhub anemometer) I hired this :https://www.inlec.com/testo-417-vane-anemometer-with-flow-hoods Wrote a commissioning report with photos and had to be a little creative with the figures as our MVHR is slightly undersize for the volume of the house. Works perfectly though.

Congratulations. This has been a masterclass in successful self building by managing contractors! More important than that is the contractor selection, project management, etc, and I think it's you (with assist from Mrs P) that has done that so you can feel great satisfaction with how this project has gone. I'm guessing (maybe you said before) your background is in project management and if not it's an even greater achievement. When you have time and if you have the energy I and I'm sure many others on here would appreciate it if you could share as much as you can on your process for managing this project. What your average day looked like, tips and tricks, preparation, etc. I think this could be really useful for those of us with less project management experience!

Stupid of me to assume the air inside the house was damp when you mentioned rusting stoves and wok. I should have realised that you might keep your stoves and wok in the garden......no wonder the stoves don't heat the house if they aren't in it. I'm done here. Adios

Building Regs do tend to be open to interpretation, but what you can lean on and discuss with your BCO if it's a problem is that in accordance with industry practice and guidance (CIBSE Domestic Heating Design Guide) for any new build, a design temperature of 21C should be used throughout the building - because of higher insulation levels and we hope, better airtightness. In this sense, adjacent rooms can be considered as a single zone: 5.21.b

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352152X2501312X Quantitative fire likelihood assessment of battery home storage systems in comparison to general house fires in Germany and other battery related fires

Extend the trough into a deeper sump, and whack some pumps in!?! We've been self-building for a long time people........ You need a rocket firing up the back end Get stuck in and crack on; there's no free lunches, and the sooner you're not sat in the wings 'considering things' the sooner you'll be living in it

Good that you seem to have a solution for this. Thinking creatively, I wonder if anyone has gone as far as building their own fire hydrant system? Would just need a hose connector at each end and a 4" pipe in between. Fire engine plugs in one end and fire fighter plugs a hose in the other. Granted there would be some cost but probably cheaper in most instances than a sprinkler system.

there was certainly a massive range of levels of completeness and support when we were dealing over ours. I'm really glad we went with our second option. @Kevan Marshall drop me a PM if you want an overview...

It's supposed to be rodable outside, or inside, if solids are present (food waste), but if this is a basin, then you can likely get a deviation from the BCO (if there's one to pacify?).

The new team are providing a heck of a lot more for £12k ?! What doors and windows? 1G?

Here are the regs. Really you need them ducted - you are after perfection after all 😉

I looked at these but they were quite a bit more money than GSE I think

My reading was lots of insulation on top of the duct, none below. I assume there would be free air in the duct also. Edit: and the MLCP stuff I was looking at was 7mm insulation. Not sure I saw any when I was looking with 13mm. Link please?

I self installed and commissioned and the BCO wasn't even interested in seeing the paperwork, but that was eight years ago.

Wasting our time bud.

I don't believe that anybody on here is trying to bully Zoot the hoot. However, it is easy to see the frustration. Zoot appears to be very good at avoidance. He had very fixed ideas as to why he is correct in his assumptions, and that nobody else can possible understand. He has a belief that no matter what he sets his ASHP controls to, it will not work. We all know that the phisics say it will work, but i bring you back to the following points. Who thinks that Zoot can get his "Special. One of a kind cottage" in the "Special. Micro climate" to be nice and comfortably warm during the depths of winter for £70 per month. I for One don't. Can all the tinkering being suggested on here make a huge difference ? It's possible, but i believe that to make any substantial difference, it is going to cost more money to run. Will Zoot spend more money. NO, he had said so himself. Then there is the fundamental point that Zoot is not going to run, his ASHP at 16, 0r 18 degrees during the night. I believe he said that, that would be madness. He has said over, and over, that the max he will consider is 10 degrees. I can honestly say that despite, what i believe is all the good intentions, nothing is going to change his mind about the three main points. Special house. Micro climate, and that running heating during the night is not madness. I don't think i am trying to bully Zoot when i suggest, a damn good ski suit might, be an easier way to stay warm. If you all manage to change his way of thinking, then hats off to you. The thread does make entertaining reading. The mods are free to delete this post, if they think i am being out of order.

Sorry, I can't help with this, but I must congratulate you on moving in, having completed your build so quickly. You're an inspiration to us all. & thanks for documenting your progress on here too - it's a real help to those of us who are not there yet.

Hi, As a small step towards repaying the valuable advice I have received on this forum I thought I'd share the attached document, which I hope will be useful and/or interesting to forum users. I am a planner by trade, working in local authority. My SB is on a relatively small, highly inaccessible plot neighboured by mature trees, and tightly bordered by existing houses. The plot was a 'detached' back garden of sorts that came as part of the deal (and something of an afterthought) when we bought our current house. Nobody had ever even considered the prospect that it could be a building plot, and for many years I discounted the idea myself due to the restrictions listed above. Five years ago, having outgrown our house and exhausted other options, I decided to at least try to self build on the plot. I obtained permission at the first time of asking (albeit not quickly and not without having to make a tweak or two). Everyone, without exception, from family to neighbours to building tradesmen to delivery drivers to other planners, have commented on how 'well' I've done to get permission. Some of them probably thought I'd made a mistake, or that the Council did, or that there was some old pals act involved because I am a planner myself (even though I don't work in the borough where I am building, and it really, really doesn't work that way anyway). They are all wrong. I obtained permission because I did the thing that planners spend their working lives telling others to do - I read the relevant planning policies, designed a development that was in line with them, then demonstrated as much in the application. That is what the attached statement does, it goes from global to national to regional to local policy, then explains the thought process behind my design, in that context. I cannot tell you how many architects, developers and would-be planning consultants fail to design development proposals specifically to meet planning policies, and then spend ages moaning, appealing, resubmitting, and generally wasting time. I can't promise that if you follow the thought process in my document you'll certainly get planning permission, but I hope you find it a useful insight into how a planner approached self-build, and specifically the matter of seeking planning permission on a plot that the rest of the world had discounted. Cheers 647910914_DesignandAccessStatementRedacted.pdf