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Here she is in all her glory... Still in progress, so a bit of connecting and tidying up to do, but if it gives others a bit of inspiration like photos on this site have for me then all good.

yup! just inside the backdoor so he can go straight in to the shower after a walk. also means we don't have to stand outside in the cold and rain to wash him off. it's a self-build......build it how you want it and don't give a **** what others think. 😂

About 15m to the kW. So about 9 kW. Does depend on how much water is flowing past.

I am fed up with these terribly written articles in the papers and media every other day giving wood burning stoves (WBS) a bad name. I have written to many of the broadsheets "environmental editors" when they run inaccurate articles pointing out the mistakes. The one I love to debate is the often reported, yet highly inaccurate statements about the WBS smoke coming into the room in which it operates. I collect, pre-season, split, stack and season all my own firewood; softwoods and hardwoods. I reckon I am on about a 36month seasoning process with the firewood I have just now. I use pine kindling and some smaller softwood logs and a piece of hardwood or two to get the stove lit, I manage the start up in that I keep a close eye on it, lots of air, get the fire caught well, you want to get the flue warmed and get a nice draw, at this stage. Usually seen when outside getting an armful of logs, there is a gentle whisp of smoke from the chimney. Once the fire is going well, I close down the air supplies to normal running mode and let it go. I was outside most of yesterday with the stove on inside, I saw no smoke all day. The issue is idiots with stoves.

My first estimate was £26,500 for three phase final cost was £400 for single phase with me doing all the trenching etc. I didn’t need to cross roads or public footpaths though. I’d definitely look at what bits you can do yourself or get third parties to do vs what the DNO has to do.

Garage conversions fall under permitted development, so they've either been removed or there are some special conditions in your area. Looking at the wording, it seems that the original planning permission which was granted for the initial build of the property, removed the right to convert the garage without additional permissions. You have little choice but to apply for retrospective planning permission and hope that its passed, but before you do, go and read the original planning application documents. An alleged breach has been disclosed on the council site: https://public-access.horsham.gov.uk/public-access/enforcementDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=ROXOYLIJ0GB00 The old planning is pre-1990 so isn't digitised, but you can view it at the planning department apparently: Outline; 3 terraced houses with integral garages and parking (From old Planning History) Ref. No: HU/223/81 | Status: Decided

hot and cold manifolds tested, on the wall and with pipes connected! it's been a long time coming but I got there in the end.

I would be happy to pay £900 if they took the MVHR into consideration in the modelling before changing my fixed windows to opening. I shall look up R J energy consultants

This is what we did with two vertical drops. Holesaw through the header and footer. In hindsight might as well have just left a 100mm gap when building stud wall! Wall not structural, both sides being plasterboarded so boards bridged the ‘gaps’ (there weren’t actually gaps as there was about 5mm of timber left each side of the hole).

Ventongimp, Polyphant and Cocks would have been better.

The £20k will be a far better investment afaic. I've priced a few off-grid domestic systems, and quite often we're up at way over £60k when it's all done and totalled up ( for a system that will actually let you live a normal life ), plus with off grid you can forget charging an EV whilst using anything else electrical. Get the contestable works done in-house, see if the roads can be mole'd under instead of closed and excavated, and save wherever you can. But in a nutshell, stump up and pay for a grid connection is my strong advice.

Too late, it is on the wireless. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p0dwpwx9

Next chapter I have just cut back a shrub which was about to overhang the pavement. I have a pile of sticky, leafy ends which I will shred and use as mulch (4 barrows of mulch so far) Messy end sticks go in the brown bin (and I will buy back the equivalent composted. (It was all meant to be free to collect by ratepayers)) Loppable or chain sawn branches are going in the open fire. Burning amazingly well, just with their natural dryness. Not buying in more logs. A few branches will be selected to use for bean poles. The options were, skip or bonfire or many trips to the tip. Or 'landscape' contractor who would probably burn it in a field. So the only thing I could do better, I think, is change open fire to WBS. I planted the shrub 20 years ago so all of it is carbon I sequestered.

I had various discussions re doing this on my parent's house. In the end I could not get people to agree to put things in the same trench and also it was nigh on impossible to manage timings to do so. On top of this the sewer trench needs a considerably larger, probably deeper trench and is considerably more expensive to dig, seemed like roughly twice the cost per meter.

Just had a guy in our place who sells and installs wood burning stoves, I mentioned the article and he said it’s burning wet, painted or treated wood they want to control. Apparently timber with a high moisture content burns much cooler and creates a lot of tar that gets ejected or blocks the liner reducing draw and further lowering combustion efficiency. No fears of banning wood burning stoves as they are much more common across Europe and he has a warehouse with 2000 stoves in stock for the increased demand . just realised the banning wood burning stoves article must be in a different thread or conversation I had with someone

i have a whole dungeon basement for that

Marmox Thermoblocks are essentially XPS with concrete reinforcement in them, where aircrete blocks are 0.11W/mK marmox is 0.047W/mK https://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock

A friend of mine paid 60,000 Australian dollars, they flew the cable in by helicopter.

Your roof may not be rated for the weight of tile - speak to your design team first. Probably will be fine but roof could have been sized and calc'ed on the lighter option.

The planners may well be open to a change, but you'll need to request it formally, hopefully just by varying a condition (drawing update). Once you know what your preferred roof finish is it's worth a chat with the planning officer.

that's it, i also cover the face of the lintel with insulation (100mm celtox same as i am putting on all our internal walls - solid 9") and then aerogel to the reveal of the lintel as its thin.

I’ve seen 2 planning applications passed for the same recently within 6 doors of my project.

You say a commercial premises, will you be walling off the staircase for fire protection?

Is the roof finish detailed on the drawings? You likely have a condition that states the development must be in line with the "named" drawings submitted as part of the application.

Oh that’s unusual. I guess they have described the materials in your application somewhere. hmmm yes, contact the planner firstly. Then they will probably ask you to do an amendment.

£2500

There's your two options. I made a 5mm mistake with one side of the ICF but it won't make much difference. My guess is that extra external insulation will be better for thermal bridging of internal walls and windows etc as with the extra internal insulation the concrete will be below 5 deg on cold days. Given ICF isn't the cheapest have you considered masonry build as you're going to use extra insulation anyway? You'll use more concrete if you opt for the internal option of extra ICF insulation.

Everything (including the dog shower) needs it’s own feed so I can work on things and bring them online at a later date. The dog shower will not be finished before we move in so I can leave it isolated and work on it when I can. that’s the beauty of the manifold system!

I appreciate the response, but I haven't enlarged the footprint. Our home is an end terrace, and I intend to park the car in our garden on the back side of the house. I hope that it won't be a problem because the kerb on that side is likewise low. I'm not sure if there is a problem with that. But I'm going to park my car there in the future. One more road that runs down the side of my house is a dead end and has only a few residences. Regarding the plan, I believed that it needed to be comprehensive and contain both the intended work and location layouts. Tomorrow, I'll call the council to get their advice.

I really wanted to read the labels. Any chance of a larger image?

Officially : everything that @SimonDa Said. Unofficially: Sarking boards all day every day and if you rather use something else- use another roofing system .

Get it in situ - it will leak then 😁👍

best bang for your buck buildup. Use EPS under the screed not far from half the price of celotex for a superior U value. Here is what we use working FFL down. external Internal damp damp 75mm eng 75mm screed 75mm eng 225mm 7n block 300mm EPS insulation 225mm 7n block 150mm beam 75mm conc common total build up 600mm / 600 dont forget to use thermally broken marmox blocks as the first course of inner skin.

I have used full fill rigid t&g insulation before. It was often a struggle to get the bricklayers to fit them the correct way up. Luckily it was just ground floor with timber frame and cladding above so not so much hassle with coursing.

Tada !! yes they need to be slit too. More delamination

Just spotted this thread and showed it to my other half who still mentions her annoyance at me deleting the stove from our build. We’ve made every decision together but on this I was quite adamant I didn’t want a stove for exactly this reason. We only have one neighbour and she died last year and the house remains empty. Even when she was alive I never saw any smoke from the chimney. Fortunately the prevailing winds tend to blow away from our plot towards the neighbour so even if there was smoke it should be fine. But I can see it being a much bigger issue in more built up areas.

Come on guys, surely you can out-luddite each other more!

I connected 1 at a time . Turned it on and wait ( maybe a leak maybe not - some times forgetting the other end of the pipe is open - which guarantees a leak 😁 ) Grow a pair and do as I say . This is the proper way . Not faffing with some air test kit to give you a false sense of security . I want water - and I want it now !

A few pointers, you are working backwards start at ffl and work down with your measurements not up. FFL is internal. FGL finish ground level is external so start at FFL and measure down, you can then work out if you need to add anything, if it was me I would try to add more concrete to the foundation. Then use a concrete trench block not an aircrete one, laid flat so 100mm build up per course, this gives you much more flexibility with height difference. With your one course that comes up so high, if your foundation is 50mm out of level ( it will be) you have no flexibility to adjust the blocks to take up this inaccuracy.

Dig deep enough and you may find some coal, all problems sorted then.

Just that really - £20,376 (inc.) - 100 meters of footpath, 2 meters of road, 2 joints, single phase. Oh to be a self builder... 😂 At what point do we seriously consider going off grid!?

Banning idiots is going to be a big job and, of course, everybody will have a different list, such that in the end, where we will all be included on someone's list and so banned - QED.

Ours was knocking on the door of £40k - 2x 100m runs up a couple of roads in the village, one run serving just us, one to uprate a cable. Approx. half was contestable half non-contestable. I tried to get quotes from other utility installation smaller companies, but they are really only interested in Housing estates multiple houses etc. Also if I had subcontracted out the contestable works, I would have [may have] been liable to VAT on that element. Not quite a beans on toast moment, but all our contingency went straight away. Signed on 6th March 2020 just before COVID, and we got connected on 10th Oct that year. It was almost a show stopper given at the time Brexit was threatening House Price falls, but in the end we decided that we couldn't bear to sell the land and someone build a house where we should have. Could have asked for a requote after they installed, but didn't bother as they underestimated the TM, they had to shut the road and set up a diversion, also they had to supply various standby generators to residents on medical grounds, and a local business. We did save a cost of moving from temporary position to final position as they took that long, we had the cabinet in.

14,989,025 Zimbabwean Dollars

Less time than a spell check.

not in our house! our spoiled doggy will not have to suffer the indignation of cold hose downs once I've finished. 😉

Er, it’s outside stoopid

What did you want to know? Nothing special going on. 4 bathrooms, 2 cloakrooms, dog shower, fridge/freezer, dishwasher etc. usual household stuff!

yeah. 20 on the cold (actually 19 as there's one spare just in case or for future expansion). and that doesn't include all the toilets as those will come from the RWH. I should've built a smaller house, might be finished by now if I had.