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MrMagic

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MrMagic last won the day on February 5 2020

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  1. I think the EDDI has an option for a de-strat pump - pg50/51 of the user manual -
  2. No issue for me personally - they are quiet but not silent. I like the kind of 'white noise' it gives off, helps me sleep. The only thing we had to do is choose fan speed 1 rather than 'auto' - we found if we left it to auto the fan would spool up whenever it was heating, using the fixed fan speed solved this.
  3. Yes I use A2A units in the bedrooms - originally fitted as A/C but I used them for heating over the past winter, works fine. Few items to consider - 1) It's a different kind of heat - not everyone likes warm air being blown on them so consider the position (or use the vane/flap adjustment) to direct the airflow in to the middle of the room 2) During the winter you may notice the defrost cycle - some units are smart and close down the internal unit whilst the external unit is defrosting to avoid blowing cold air about, but not all 3) Aircon remotes/programmers suck - it's like going back to programming a VCR sometimes. I found the wired wall mounted controllers seem to fare better in the wife acceptance factor department ...otherwise they 'just work'. Cheaper overall than an air2water heat pump. I'd highly recommend getting them fitted properly by an Fgasser - it's worth the money. I also have a no-name "easy fit" unit which worked fine for a year or two but has repeatedly broken down since Vs my 'proper' Mitsubishi units which are purring along fine. Strictly speaking that Telefunken unit above should be fitted by an FGas registered bod as it involves vac'ing down the lines and working with refrigerant.
  4. Bit of a random question - does anyone build lean tos these days? I always remember it being something my nan or aunties house had - typically with polycarbonate sheet roofs and usually housing the tumble dryer Could/would/should you build one today? 🤔
  5. I'm assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that the dMVHR is balanced? It's got a heat exchanger and an inlet/outlet pipe in pipe (a bit like a combi boiler flue). Certainly it's 'extracting' from slots on the side and inputting via a grill
  6. Thanks for the feedback, reminded me to go read part F to see what I should be doing - note this is an existing small garden office/shed. Part F actually makes it quite clear - Since this garden office/shed is a single room, you could argue it should follow the above and have a minimum fresh air delivery rate of 13l/s - currently I'm only putting in 6l/s with my dMVHR - which kind of explains why CO2 is rising so much. No combustion appliances or anything like that here and the graph tracks exactly when I start/finish work.... perhaps less gassing on Zoom will help too? For reference its 17m3 so if we take the lower 0.3 ACPH - (17*0.3)/0.2778 = 18.35 l/sec of air. So whichever way we cut it, I'm at least 7l/s of air 'short'. (assuming it's a perfectly sealed box) Thanks @JohnMo and @SteamyTea ! Edit: I've got a https://www.vent-axia.com/range/lo-carbon-tempraselv fitted - looking at that it's 6 or 9l/s in trickle and 15l/sec in boost - so running in boost all day should be enough to clear the air.. will give it a whirl.
  7. Home office rather than commercial. I can tell I'm not getting enough air through here so need to up the ante... I've got a dHRV already but wanted to do the calcs to see if I'm shifting enough air through here. If not then it'd be up to a larger MVHR... only a cheapy one tho. Edit: Both your link and the ventaxia link settle on 5 ACPH for general domestic so need to make sure I'm at least achieving that
  8. Thanks @SteamyTea! Just what I needed. Yes this is for an office so going by https://www.vent-axia.com/sites/default/files/Ventilation Design Guidelines 2.pdf we're looking at 6 - 10 ACPH. (basic) CO2 monitoring is also showing 1000ppm+ throughout the day. I think we have to be careful to not conflate air leakage with air changes - not my area of expertise (as you can guess) - but an airtight building with low 'uncontrolled' leakage will still need a decent amount of 'controlled' ACPH. Seal it up tight.. ventilate right etc.
  9. Howdy folks - I'll be upfront and admit I'm being lazy, but does anyone have a simple ventilation rate calculator? i.e. if my volume is ...m3 and ACH is 6 to 8 then the required ventilation rate would be ... litres per second or hour
  10. I took a very brief look at this a while back and as I understand it - it was to do with simply connecting more houses to the sewer network. The process was something like you had to look at how many 'credits' your local sewage plant had left and, if there wasn't enough you had to buy mitigation credits from a nearby scheme such as wetland restoration. All seemed overly complex and a bit shady, sounds like 'carbon credits' again. I agree theres issues, but this seems an overly complex way of going about it. How about stop dumping sewage in rivers and the sea first?
  11. Thanks @BenP - devil in the detail as usual! I guess it was more for @hotnuts21 where the makeup shows VCL on the inside and OSB on the outside... as you say, I guess it must be breathable?
  12. @hotnuts21 @BenP Quick question on your wall makeup - how is this breathable with the OSB on the outside? i.e. if the core stud got wet how would that breathe out? Steico make-up here has no OSB layer - https://www.mikewye.co.uk/STEICO-timber-frame-clad/ (seen the same for pavatex)
  13. Howdy folks - Can't seem to find an answer on this one - for a tilt and turn window are there still front drainage holes and do you need cills? or is this a purely uPVC thing? A lot of the aluminium cill profiles seem to butt up to the front face of the window rather than run underneath it - how does that become weather tight? If anyone has a cross section / explanation / photos that would be very very appreciated!! MM.
  14. @SBMS What software did you use to knock that up? Looks fantastic - I like the concept of a merged island/seating.. just a shame the example image is from the 1970s 🤣
  15. We have a set of 'veka' based uPVC sashes, love them, tilt inward for easy cleaning as well. For me it's the detailing that seems to make or break uPVC sashes, you can get some really naff looking ones but if done right with 'run through horns' etc, it's very hard to tell them apart
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