MrMagic

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MrMagic last won the day on February 5

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  1. Thats a bit of a shame about Loxone as it's willingness to sell direct to public kept me interested in it. You do need to have a bit of a think about what you are truly trying to achieve - - home automation? or I just want the light to come on in the bathroom when I walk in ? = £15 PIR - full piped music to every room with wall controls? or just a multiroom audio system? (Alexa, Google Home, Sonos) - heating control to each radiator? or just a simple thermostat from the phone? (Honeywell Evohome, Nest, Tado) ....as I'm sure you've found there are 100s of options now for various parts to the HA environment but very few systems actually manage to pull it all together cleanly. What I did in mine was go for open ecosystems (i.e. APIs, backed by longevity, open standards etc) and ended up with 'Home Assistant' running on a Raspberry Pi as 'the brain'. For lights - fitted Z-wave throughout, dimmers, relays etc but would probably take a serious look at sonoff / Shelly / ESP based solutions. I still like ZWave but the comms between the units can sometimes be a bit slow whereas the sonoff devices I have don't miss a beat. For sound - At the moment Google Homes, have had Alexa, Sonos in the past... would probably take another look at Sonos now there are some cheaper IKEA/Sonos speaker options For Environmental - Fitted Honeywell Evohome, again, never skips a beat but would certainly investigate other options as it's costly. Wiring - did exactly the same as your thinking, wired all switches and lights back to a central location so I can chop and change the brain as needed. Confused the hell out of the local sparky but makes reconfiguring things easy peasy. Put plenty of cat5e in (or cat6) in, still put a shotgun coax in to each TV point, wire it all to a central point. So far my only regret is not putting more cat5 in to the house, theres a few rooms where I've had to cable round a bit to reach a socket. What happens if the brain dies? (Can I replace the proprietary system? Is the open source project still around? do they still make the hardware?) What happens if I move house? (Can I convert to 'dumb'?) Who would maintain the house/system going forward? etc (Simply fit and forget or required regular patching/software updates?) HTH. MM.
  2. As soon as I posted that I thought, Sky-Q, doh! Not a Sly household here, just simple freesat. At the very least tho, you have the cable in the wall and can switch out the equipment on each end.
  3. Look at quadplexers - 2x sat + terrestrial + FM/DAB all down a 'shotgun' pair of coax (i.e. 1 cable) I've run this + 2xcat5e to each "point" in a room. The main living space 1+2 and office all have this + quad cat5e. HTH. R.
  4. Heres a very basic attempt at Agile Cost Vs Grid Carbon Vs Grid Generation Mix. It looks like demand 'swing' is probably the biggest cost contributor. (Ignore the TZ in the top graph, need to update my code to handle BST)
  5. @cmorewood Keep the posts coming - I thought with Aquion going under this tech was dead but good to see it's still out there in places! Would be good to see some graphs, cycles, charge rates etc... the more stats the merrier. (and don't mind @SteamyTea, he means well 😀)
  6. Looks like the regs has been recently updated - what I suspect they are quoting is the following from doc B - "1.1 All dwellings should have a fire detection and alarm system, minimum Grade D2 Category LD3 standard, in accordance with the relevant recommendations of BS 5839-6." "1.2 Smoke alarms should be mains operated and conform to BS EN 14604." ...then cross checking BS5839-6 for rentals here: https://www.aico.co.uk/bs5839-6/ - implies again that it now has to be mains powered. Not an expert here by any stretch but it seems they are encouraging mains powered alarms (rightly so tbh). As per @Ferdinand speak to the local BCO/HMO dept etc.
  7. It sounds like its worth investing in a two speed unit - I've got the Smiths space saver economy one, great unit but the lack of speed control I guess is whats contributing to the noise as it's permanently on 'high'. Really does pump out the heat tho.
  8. Yep, like them. Can be a tad noisy but not offensively loud. Pump out the heat.
  9. Just out of interest... where are people buying their sun amps these days? Do they still sell direct or only via wholesale partners now? (feel free to DM if you don’t want to post publicly)
  10. BT are no longer deploying battery backups for fibre deployments as pretty much everyone has a mobile now. A simple UPS with just the router and the phone should last a good hour or so. Make sure you put the phone basestation on it - the amount of times people forget that a DECT/cordless phone does not work in a power cut.
  11. I'd be tempted to move the Qubino units out in to a seperate DIN rail enclosure - it looks like they have different wiring rather than standard 'bus bar' style connections. This could also help with sign off as there is some debate at the moment as to what constitutes 'designed and built for compatibility', i.e. you shouldn't be mixing different manufacturers gear together in one CU ... (although this is a weird reg but I can understand it a little with different manufacturers using different offsets for their bus bars). May also help with serviceability since when you want to put those Qubinos in association mode you won't have to be poking around in the main CU - plus should you ever replace the Qubinos with another technology you only have to rip and replace the 'lighting board' as such. As an alternative to the double height boards you can simply stack smaller units together. Even with your 30cm width that's still going to be tight, especially once you factor in space for the tails and perhaps some vertical trunking to run carrying all the cables in and out. See what your sparky says as they'll be the one putting pen to paper for you.
  12. @dnb Southern Water certainly seem to be sending out mixed messages with thier online guidance - https://www.southernwater.co.uk/help-advice/leaks/trench-regulations I'd go with the advice here, backed up by the diagram on the SW website - everything past the meter and certainly past your boundary line is your responsibility so JFDI. EDIT: reading that page again in detail, I think the clue is 'reconnected to the main', i.e. the wholesale replacement of the pipe end-to-end inclusive of the meter. In your case the connection to the main and the meter is all good so it's just 'your' bit you're moving.
  13. Watching this with interest as I’m also looking to do the same thing! First things first - heat loss calculations so you know how much heat you need to put in also, semantics, you ARE going to rip the boiler out or ARE NOT ripping the boiler out?
  14. +1 on this. Since switching to these my mastic lines look 1000 times better. Some good 'how to' vids here - (I've got the Fuji kit from the video, works perfectly with the black bits to go over grout lines/joints etc)
  15. 7 & 9 are certainly the kettle, just after 10am is probably the uranium enrichment kicking in...