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Get rimless toilets.

@Thorfun I had similar concerns and ended up making a ‘pre filter’ box between the vent and the MVHR unit. I used a pair of tights as the filter material, works a treat. If you’ve got the space/time it may be worth a go.

But again this is down to BS7291 Class S and the use of the 3 factors as quoted previously - keep the temperature lower than 60°C and ideally use occupancy / time based circulation and you don’t have an issue regardless.

So you paid for a washer, and you got a washer - dryer for the same price? And you are unhappy? Just don't use the dryer functions if you don't want to. Don't make a problem and more stress when there is no need.

Buy a cheap second hand frame tent but put your small tools is plastic boxes to prevent rust

Right I see. I don’t believe that is the most up to date version as changes are yet to be implemented. Have a read of this… https://planningjungle.com/2016/04/18/important-dclg-has-updated-its-permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance-document-april-2016/ (Scroll down to “The definition of the term "highway" (page 6):) The definition is on Page 6 of the Technical Handbook and that is what PO’s refer to. Check the original Planning approval for what they have deemed and allocated as amenity land. No doubt this is what the Council are referring to.

Most tents have an inner skin in the bedrooms to avoid condensation dripping on occupants, one of my customers put a plastic shed in their garden and as soon as it was cold it ran with condensation horribly. You mention it’s only temporary till you get a shed, why not bring that shed forward and save the temporary solution. Rusty tools are horrible.

@DevilDamo The GDPO states the height of any gate, fence, wall or means of enclosure erected or constructed adjacent to a highway used by vehicular traffic would, after the carrying out of the development, exceed— (i) for a school, 2 metres above ground level, provided that any part of the gate, fence, wall or means of enclosure which is more than 1 metre above ground level does not create an obstruction to the view of persons using the highway as to be likely to cause danger to such persons; (ii) in any other case, 1 metre above ground level; In my case it's a public footpath not used by vehicular traffic the council have cited the Milton Keynes example stating bicycle are classed as vehicular traffic that applies to redways. As far as I know our footpath is not a redway The property I believe was built in the 70's

You will get a lot more in a frame tent, if it’s got metal poles and you use guy ropes will be more secure 👍

Standard CAT plug will fit through a 12mm hole, 5 cables will go through a 20mm hole. Cable Monkey do them in 10 colours, can’t think why you would need that many but they aren’t expensive. https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/rj45-network-cables/12-cat6-rj45-patch-cables.html#/17-color-orange/61-length-3m/3295-boot_type-lsoh_with_latch_protection_boot At lengths up to 20m I can’t see why you would need to use cut cable

Will respond back to the case officer, hopefully he accepts my findings! Will keep you updated, thanks!

Then I think the council are on dodgy grounds. I would be tempted to tell them you ARE Going to erect your fence unless they can give you evidence that backs up their assumptions.

That depends on your deeds and any covenant on the land, not what the council “thinks”

Plenty on EBay, better if near to you I guess. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204046125097?hash=item2f8218c829:g:WuUAAOSw4IBi2xHb

So reply to your PO stating this is a footpath with no right for bicycles so it is not a "Highway" and so the MK case does not apply. State you will make a planning application of LD is refused, and if that is refused on the same basis you will appeal as this is not a "Highway" That will show you are determined.

Have a look in eBay for steel poled family tents.

I’m a little confused as to what you’re still asking or pursuing. They have refused the CoL as the 2m high fence would be positioned to a highway. The Permitted Development Handbook states… “Highway” – is a public right of way such as a public road, public footpath and bridleway. For the purposes of the Order it also includes unadopted streets or private ways. They also mention the amenity land aspect, which is more common than you may think. Although within your legal ownership, you would need to submit a Full application to change its use from amenity to a private garden. At the same time, you’d include the erection of a 2m high fence. Have you gone back through your legal documents, e.g. title register and plan as amenity land, etc… is usually mentioned there?

Easy enough to make a new wood frame.

I used a family tent for storage and painting doors for about 6 months once but it was totally ruined. All elastics for the pegs perished due to the UV as did the window which went brittle and cracked. Prefab garage?.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/prefab-garage/234592717460?var=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338743056&customid=jkp_Cj0KCQjw2_OWBhDqARIsAAUNTTGpvIm5R5cBDeUc4rYoYTWsx4KjBnGoFV4SnUTydzM1rez_Qgcr2EsaApDMEALw_wcB&toolid=10001&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2_OWBhDqARIsAAUNTTGpvIm5R5cBDeUc4rYoYTWsx4KjBnGoFV4SnUTydzM1rez_Qgcr2EsaApDMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&pageci=88a904be-f902-4cdd-955e-a281484eac68&redirect=mobile

Mate of mine lived in one of these for 2 years when he was a student. Was pretty sturdy. https://www.anchorsupplies.com/ex-british-army-10-man-arctic-bell-tent-heavy-duty-unissued.html

I know but I am not worried about security that much. Of course there is a risk of burglary but this is more or less a privacy garden, don't expect thieves to pay a visit.

Can try a magnet to locate any steel nails. Or an angle grinder.

Kind of thing that @Onoff with knock up from scrap in his shed. We had a frame tent in the workshop to do all the dusty work in.

Very dodgy keeping tools In it, no way to make it secure, yes cheap gazebo,s will fall apart quickly and not withstand any wind. What about a scrap caravan and strip the inside out?

Easier to plane some timber down to size and fit new I think, so no need to be so careful when getting the old ones out.

Might still be possible with different or trimmed down beading.

Try to gently pry off the beading with a wide flat tool like a scraper. It is unlikely to be glued but will be pinned and also stuck with glazing putty and years of paint. ... hang on ... you will need a different size bead for the DG unit so don’t waste your time

Postscript: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254722117981 , also known as a 'fan 1248', seems to work well and comes complete with a temperature sensor, but you still need a 12V relay to shut the fan off completely. Contacts for the 12V relay are provided. Without a relay it turns the fan down very low at the programmed 'shut off' temperature, but not quite off. With one fan turned down to minimum the board plus fan draws 70mA at 12V, if I disconnect the fan it is 65mA, so the 'slow running' fan is drawing just 5mA=60mW and the board itself 65mA=0.8W. At this level Im not sure a relay is worth the bother, probably best just to leave the whole thing on and turn it off at the end of the heating season! The onboard fan connector is not conventional, but I eventually tracked it down - its a JST VH 3.96. Its currently too warm to try the fans on radiators, and anyway my central heating is drained down while I upgrade the rads in preparation for eventual fitting of an ASHP.

Kelvin, to assist you in your decision making I have attached pics of my house Sept 2020, March 2021 and July 22. The cladding is untreated Siberian larch, board on board. I think it’s about half way towards “silvering”. my tip would be whatever you do install have a few full spare planks left out in the weather if possible. In case you need to replace split boards, they’ll match.

Similar response from us: Geberit AquaMera works well because its rimless the flush mechanism is completely removable - easily so you can clean underneath it the 'button's ' clean with a quick wipe you can mop under the bowl the flush water is designed to swirl - seems to work perfectly so far the cistern is completely hidden and requires no cleaning

It should be a vented ridge. The heat behind the tiles will rise upwards not down to the eaves

So don’t forget these calculations are cylinder loss only, and assume the tank is kept at a constant temperature. In reality the losses are less as the tank cools by usage (and loss) and the bigger emitters are pipework losses. Also the heat is not “lost”, it is transferred to the air and the house so reduces the heat load in the winter so beware trying to calculate how much it is costing as it’s not simple !!

Road Traffic Act 1988 https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/52/part/VII/crossheading/interpretation “cycle” means a bicycle, a tricycle, or a cycle having four or more wheels, not being in any case a motor vehicle, “footpath”, in relation to England and Wales, means a way over which the public have a right of way on foot only, So by calling it a Footpath excludes use by cycles, and even allowing cycles does not make it a vehicular highway as a cycle is not a vehicle.

We have only got 52 tonnes of floor slab to play with. Stuffing heat into works well. We put 30 degree flow temp in it for about 5 to 6 hours, that's enough to last 18 hours, until the next charge.

Absolutely, that's what I said in my first post in the thread:

Basically the exact same route on our build, only difference is we have a dry ridge (mortar bed isn't allowed on new builds in Scotland) and we have sarking boards (another Scottish thing) below the breather membrane.

I have the Telford Tempest heat pump cylinder so I suspect the same rating as your if I cared to look it up. I find in practice the heat loss is low, no part of the tank ever feels warm to the touch, but I only normally store hot water at 48 degrees so the heat loss in 24 hours will be less than what they state as they assume a much higher storage temperature. What is VERY important with any cylinder is insulate ALL the pipework connecting to the cylinder very well. That means good thick insulation and neat joints that are at least taped so no gaps. without insulation or with poor insulation you will lose more heat from the connecting pipes than from the cylinder.

Our planners tried to tell us some of our garden was not “garden”. Bloody planners (I won at appeal).

Thanks @PeterW just what I was looking for! It didn’t come up in my search for ‘recirculating’ DHW 🙄

Looks interesting. What do the manufacturers instructions say about recirculating systems?

Cyclists are not permitted to ride on footpaths unless there is a specific order allowing them to do so e.g. cycle lane. I do not believe that it is a highway. I would try and establish whether cycles are permitted to use it and then appeal

Absolutely - just need to work out how to use it in reverse so as to get accuracy both ways. Simple question with a complex answer - did we already discuss this? Why not get another meter and connect it backwards so it flashes on export!

Is there any identification/ markings on the external sheath of the cable? can you trace back to a point as Nick points out…

I made one for mine, used off some vapour control fabric/foil, some left over mineral wool and double sided tape. Made a load of pillow/cushions, shaped to go around the cylinder. Two layers of vapour control fabric (back to back), double sided tape on 3 sides, fill with mineral wool seal with double sided tape. They can be easily removed if I needed access. Heat exchanger is wrapped in 25mm PIR. Took about an hour.

And who’s top of that list? Yes the south west, 101%, just like water charges. No wonder Cornwall is considered a poor county 🤷‍♂️

I can see lot of activity in other threads about adding cooling options to ASHP. I will update my experience based on recent heatwave to provide reference for anyone visiting this thread Positives + Cooling worked really well and system was working at half capacity most of the time. System maintained temperature around 23C + We only ran cooling during solar generation, so no additional cost of running. We averaged about 12-15kWh usage (guesstimate) + Not much noise from ducts or external units Negatives - Warm Air heating Ducts are designed for heating so downstairs gets more air than upstairs. Cooling needs opposit of that, so upstairs wasn't as cool as downstairs - System was modulating to lower capacity with auto mode even though set temperature wasn't reached. I could override it by chaning fan speed - Need to ask everyone to close windows in summer while AC is running

I built (not yet finished) this thing. It’s timber framed and clad in steel and leftover larch. Has a concrete floor. Due to budget restrictions I hand built it myself, and I’m not a tradesman but ok with joinery & diy. It’s 8m x 4m x 3.9m high. I had pp for garage so got the vat back on materials. Inside the rear half has a loft space - storage and the front half is a vaulted ceiling, for a workshop area. Never built a building before, so I followed building standards for a dwellinghouse and tried to copy what my proper builders did in our actual house. Idea being if I built it like a house it would take me way beyond min standards for an outbuilding. So it has DPCs, breathable membranes etc etc. it’s even plaster-boarded inside. I bought heaps of 4x2 in a builders material auction and built modular 2.4x 2.4m osb clad frame panels for the walls. Shopped around for everything to cut costs. My budget was as cheap as I could do it to the best possible standard. I didn’t keep a running total but think I’ve spent around £5-6k on it that being current lockdown/covid costs. I think I’ve ended up with a circa £15-20k building. It was hard work but good fun learning new skills etc eg building the roof. I did consider buying a metal frame to be installed but by the time I factored in everything it was obviously more expensive. We were hit hard by Storm Erwin etc but the building was unaffected. Which was reassuring. Hope this helps for ideas.

It's different for different people. For example, some think the forum is about unpaid volunteers giving up their time to help people. For others, it's about snapping at people trying to help, just because they don't like the answers they're getting.

In our case our foundation design showed 800mm sub-base below the 150mm MBC layer, but once we started digging the ground was perfect so we only went down 450mm and not 1250mm as had been suggested by MBC. Building inspector was more than happy and we saved on 180m3 muck-away and hardcore! BTW, MBC standard detail for foundations now seems to be type 2 + sharp sand rather than type 3 + fine gravel. I beleive this change is due to a change in the SE doing their foundation designs.