Leaderboard

If you are minded to physically stop them.. I recommend a friendly call to the local police the day before. Tell them you are worried the neighbours are going to try and move a property boundary without a court order. Say you know its a civil matter but you are concerned they may cause a breech of the peace. Say you are just letting them know in case you have to call them tomorrow. Try and sound as reasonable and calm as possible. Then call them the moment the neighbours start banging in posts. PS If you allow them to take possession it will be down to you to take court action rather than them.

I'm sure your insurers would rather you gave up some land as it costs them nothing, but I can't see what there is to negotiate about. Sounds like your neighbour bought his property happily, based on the physical boundaries he could see and accepted as true. Now he wants a bit of your garden, because he's being a tw@t. I'd keep it cool and calm (on the outside..!) but as already said, I wouldn't concede a millimetre and make that absolutely clear via a solicitors letter.

Caution if using this software as it only calcs axial modes, not tangential and oblique modes, which can cause issues as well though are not as strong as axial modes as get absorbed / diffused by room surfaces. Below is the room mode calc based on the modecalc example for all mode types (all = 0, axial = 1, tangential =2, oblique = 3), and there is a couple of tangential modes combining at around 75 Hz (75.3 and 75.5 Hz). In regard to modes you want to get a nice even modal density so that the frequency response of the room is as flat as possible and any spikes are smooths via absorption or diffusion.

Thanks again all. Emailed my solicitor this morning.

For the £100 the letter will cost, go to a solicitor first - a letter from you directly will just inflame the situation. When faced with legal facts, most people shut up and back down.

I recommend getting your own survey and report done by RICS. https://hmlandregistry.blog.gov.uk/2018/02/27/drawing-the-line-on-boundaries/

That means the o-rings are not in place properly inside as that shouldn’t leak from there.

DHW is heated by the Air Source Heat Pump in a Telford 300L ctlinder with the high capacity heat pump input coil. Topped up using the immersion heater to use up surplus solar PV

Mainly every thing being square and parallel The upper floor to wall cut out was 2575 So I brought the finished plaster out to 2.5 which was the measurement that the stair company had worked off We finished up 30 mill nearer to the loo door than what I wanted But the stairs fit in like a glove No horrible nicks or knocks on them

To Bowdlerise a, to some, fairly well known process: "Through the ministry of BuildHub, may God give you pardon and peace, and BuildHub Moderators absolve you from your sins in the name of @Onoff, and of @pocster and other Demonic Builders, Amen. There. Go, My Child and sin no more!

Some pretty good overview of the range here https://evanmccann.net/blog/unifi-routers-overview They have an increasingly complex overlapping product line.

Magic water tight fixings? What are those then?

You have to let us know what happens in the end!!!

Brambles are the worst because they bulk up, are jaggy to handle and won't go well through shredders. Difficult to burn even. BUT as you have a decent area of land, if you use a small digger, scrape them up, with 6 inches soil and the roots, make a big pile, chopped and driven over as much as possible and leave them, they will mostly rot down to a fraction of the pile size in 6 months Bury in other compostable material if you have it. Then it is soil, and useful. Also you have got rid of most of the roots. Of course they will grow again, but in a small and controllable area. Depending on ethics and options: Spray until they give in/ turn the pile over/ bury in other compost. Should not need to burn, you will feel good about how little harm you have caused, and have a nice pile of soil.

Before going out and buying a load of panels, plus everything else you need, I'd highly recommend you get yourself a spectrum analyser. There are apps you can download onto your phone. You also need to work out the room's frequency response. This way you'll have any idea of the frequencies you need to target within the room to get the best results and know whether the room is likely to amplify certain frequencies. You can also measure ambient background noise produced by mvhr, pumps, washing machoines etc. so their noise gets dealt with too. Looking at the acoustic panels, they provide very good noise absorption around about 1k Hz and above, but because they're thin their effectiveness will be reduced for lower frequencies (the sharp edges help a bit for refraction) as you'll see by the graphs produced by the manufacturer. TBH it is a bit pointless to spend loads on targeting higher frequencies only to be left with annoying low freguency hums, or the bass of a male voice. You can get free software to help calculate the room modes, like Modecalc, which also has a tutorial. Otherwise, there are products like Celenit and Savolit wood wool boards that have acoustic certification. Celenit has a calculation service to help with room design. Here's also a link to a document that shows some common absorption coefficients of materials so you can compare to the products you're looking at. Noise control in Rooms HTH.

Exactly this. A letter from a solicitor shows you've taken advice and are willing to spend money to defend your rights. Don't underestimate the impact of a formal letter on the average chancer.

Good advice this...... Definitely what you should be doing and I'm not sure why you haven't done so yet as your neighbour is clearly unreasonable A solicitor's letter telling your neighbour that they have no legal right to trespass on your land and put up an illegal boundary fence, and making it very very clear that this will escalate to the courts, is more likely to make them think twice than any letter or communication you have with them.

Got samples for SlatWall, Akupanel and Acupanel and, it might be me, but they all seem almost identical.

I would ask the local CIL officer at the council - I have found mine to be incredibly helpful. I have a particularly challenging situation and employed a specialist planning lawyer to help. But have given up and am just working with the local CIL officer who is as knowledgeable and free!

That sounds like a sensible approach to resolve an established dispute where bath parties are behaving reasonably. Depending on funds available I would fire off a registered letter to the other party in order to establish proof that you dispute the other party's claims. Keep the language terse and minimal i.e. don't rehearse a long winded argument in the letter as thought you were in the High Court and presenting a case to a Judge.

Hi, I can't say I know much about them or have ever used one to be honest so could nt comment either way. As a genera point. I would take most stove efficiencies with a pinch of salt - they are based on test lab conditions with perfect wood, on a perfect flue and most crucially someone who knows how to operate it. This latter reason is why Hwam developed the Automatic systems - it's the people operating the stove that generally cause it to burn incorrectly.

Hopefully they haven’t started work yet in which case you have more joy but go back to the builder and ask them to apply for a non material amendment to phase at least your plot to allow a self build CIL exemption. As @Temp says some councils want to encourage self builds whilst others see CIL as a licence to print money.

I know it's a time and energy (edited to add: and money!) sink, but there's absolutely no way I could let this behaviour stand. I'd be in contact with a solicitor who knows about these things, and getting a letter sent with the relevant threats about trespass, and I wouldn't be giving up a single millimetre. If he has to do anything to things on your land (plants, a hedge, a fence) to do this marking out, I'd also be raising the prospect of criminal damage.

I would ask the planners if they would accept phasing as an amendment to the existing PP. Some councils favour self builds, others not so it's hard to know how co-operative they may be, especially as they will be loosing money.

I have almost finished dealing with a row of Lawson cypresses along the far side of the garden (19 of them) - only the stumps remaining. Bought a Macallister shredder in Screwfix and it did a good job (well, had to replace it twice). Created a crate out of paving stones and got it all stored. Ordered a second green bin which is just an extra £25 a year, will be done in 2 months. The only thing I would have done differently in your situation is hire a big beast shredder for a weekend - would be much easier. I would really not like it should my neighbours decide to burn that much stuff - and frankly I don't see the need as it may well be faster and safer to shred it for a couple of hundred pounds.

Take a short cut to sanity. Burn it. Yes, yes, I know. I started with all those stars in my eyes about how we were going to be ECOMAX. And five years in, hibernaculars built, Swallows catered for, Bluetits cosy, Starlings swearing loudly from under the facia board, pond fostering midges the size of Lancaster Bombers - I'm *king fed up with eco-sheet. Its gone on for too long: there's too much still to do, too much to finish, and too much eco-handwringing. And I'm TooFuckingTired. When all I'm doing is mowing the grass on a Saturday morning, I'll worry about garden waste. I'll have some spare brain capacity then. But during a self-build, just bloody burn it.

best pic I could find quickly.

Additional steelwork off the existing purlins?

Good evening @Jonathan Oakes I am a bit brain dead with tiredness tonight so cannot give you a good reply.... the main problem is that you have nothing below the tin to fix the velux easily to. from what I can see the roof you have is a very light weight design and adding lots of timber, windows and insulation could cause structural problems. as I say to my friends, anything is possible.... it just comes down to how much money do you want to spend on getting there. I am afraid that this is probably beyond my field of knowledge. maybe @Mr Punter would know of a solution as he deals with more commercial projects I think..... if something comes to me when I am not so brain dead I will post again. best of luck and sorry I have nothing useful to say. cpd

Much depends on your circumstances and what you have cover wise to fabricate the panels on site for example. I have a job that comprises a 210m sq bungalow to go up this summer just south of Glasgow, warrant all approved etc. The client has a shed next to the new house. The contactor is going to stick build the panels in the shed. I did a set of panel drawings / nailing schedule for the contractor to follow. The economics seem to stack up for the client. The timber frame is 145 x 45 C24 for the external panels. 95 x 45 C24 for the internal panels, some of which are racking (shear) walls so they are sheeted on one side for building stability. The roof is formed in prefabricated timber trusses with some cut roof infill. The ceiling heights are 2.9m and the house is in a windy spot hence the use of the 145 deep C24 timber for the whole structural frame. This C24 throughout is partly to avoid anyone mixing up timber grades accidentally. In Scotland we have been building TF for a good while.. both stick and prefabricated. In recent decades this has become more mainstream in the southern part of the UK. There are many advantages to stick building so don't rule this out as an option to look at. Here are just a few examples: 1/ You can buy the timber on account at a merchants, no kit deposit to fork out for up front or worries about the TF fabricator going bust. 2/ You can just build the panels you really need for structural stability, stand them up and get the roof on. 3/ It's easier to change your mind as you go.. maybe move a non load bearing wall.. it's your frame! 4/ You can shop about for all the insulation, metal fixings and so on. 5/ If the brickie has not got the found true / square then you can often adjust the panels as you make them on site.. that can be a real bonus as it can take a lot of the heat out of a potential nasty argument over who is to blame. 6/ You can be more sure of the quality and accuracy of the nailing and so on as you can examine the panels before the vapour membrane say is stapled on. 7/ If using say local trades folk it gives them a good run of work, in some ways they can come and go in terms of flexibility, wet days make panels, dry days put them up, that can lead to a saving.

https://www.myerson.co.uk/news-insights-and-events/a-guide-to-adverse-possession Go talk to a competent solicitor, one who has experience in these type of matters.

I spent a long time looking at velux installations in corrugated tin and NOT ONE was done well....... I looked at why they were done badly and then sat down and worked out how to do it well. I did the layout and install myself as the devil is in the detail if you want it all to line up and work properly. The most important aspect for me was the position of the windows and there size in relation to the corrugations in the tin sheets. You need to make sure that one sheets edge will end with with a non cut downward sloping corrugations that falls directly into the inner gutter of the velux..... you then need to know that the windows width is also correct so that the far side gutter lines up with the next sheet of tin enabling that tin edge to fall in the opposite velux gutter...... then if you have multiple windows (I had 4 in my roof) you need to make sure that they all correspond with the corrugations. There really is very little to play with on the set out as the tin does not allow for error, you get about 10-20mm of space in the flashing gutter to play with but you really want the tin edge to fall in the middle as if it’s to close to the window it could block up with leaves or moss, to far and it’s not going to be as effective, also ANY error will be carried over to the next window as the corrugation spacing is set. It’s possible with very carful layout but if this is done wrong your going to have another example of how not to do it....... if you find a contractor that says they can do it INSIST to be able to go and look at one of there installs..... I visited 3 different installations done by 3 different professional roofers and I would not have payed for the work......

Hire of the materials requires full rate VAT and you cannot reclaim it. Labour to erect and dismantle the scaffolding should be zero rated. VAT Notice 708 mentions scaffolding as a particular example of this in section 3.4.2 https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction So it's helpful if the scaffolder puts as much of the price on the erection/dismantling and as little on the hire as they feel is reasonable. ?

In my experience of gravel gardens there is a build up of soil over time on top of the landscape fabric and weeds grow in that not through it. Wind blown seeds get in. Good strong weedkiller from a hose sprayer or watering can over the lot a few times a year should keep on top of it. Gravel has not been a totally weed free option for me in the past it needs maintenance just different maintenance. BBC R4 Gardeners Question Time advice for hard to shift weeds e.g. mares tail.......old carpet or black plastic for a year to kill them all off then start again.....if you can bear to look at the mess for a year! @newhome maybe builder 2 threw diesel or something down before the gravel that kills most things in the soil.

Yer. We're nosey as £uck

Welcome from Argyll on the west coast of Scotland. I took on a rundown property 10 years ago and am still trying to dig myself out..... admittedly I look at it as a daily hobby rather than something that HAS to be done in a certain timeframe... well that’s what a started saying after the first 5 years in.....