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Every sizeable dwelling gets this discipline installed as standard. I never leave specifications to a client tbh. I make them aware ( at the quote stage usually ) of what will be installed and why. I don’t get into that degree of being micro-managed as people are asking for my professional opinion vs them wanting to go to a cheaper option due to bean counting. Clients could demand that I do it a certain way and I can then either cover myself with signed caveats, or refuse to do the job, particularly if I felt that was going to be more laborious for me ( what bean counters often decide to selectively overlook ) or to the detriment of the finished system and its reliable ( and robust ) operation. Hepworth manifolds have a good waterway and allow flow through with relative silence, but cheaper ball valves / other isolators can be both restrictive and noisy by comparison. For @Russell griffiths job I’d be feeding both ends of the manifold with water, so a bit like a ring. Costs aren’t a million miles away from ‘normal’ plumbing when you discount all the joints, costs of additional fittings, increased liabilities and the number of times you’ll have to drain down and refill during the course of an entire build. Ive had such good results with the manifold system why do anything else? “Tried and tested”. Members here with the traditional arrangement have given poor feedback on the amount of time it takes to get hot water out of the taps with the primary distribution having been in 22mm everywhere, or even worse, starting in 28mm ?. Not for me sir, no thanks.

Well, 13,000 bricks arrived today on an artic which refused to back into the site. Had to sort it of the road. Offload went ok with the forks with one pack a bit mangled by the hiab which let go at the back of the site. Spent the afternoon stacking bricks onto a pallet. Waved off the artic load of 7n blocks due tomorrow to the mech yard to drop off as and when - it looks like they have swallowed the cost! 20T of sand that was due tomorrow came today after I was gone - it been dropped in the right place by a miracle. Trench Blocks, cement, wall ties etc arrive tomorrow. Steel frame on my bit comes in tomorrow and brickie kicks off Tuesaday.

If the OP has 16 x cold feeds ( assuming 3 x WC’s / 2 x cold mains appliances ) that’s 11 outlets requiring cold supplies ( so also assuming 11 hot supplies ) then the cold supply would need to get to at least the first two bathrooms in a minimum poor size of 22mm. Same for the hot, but the hot more like starting off in 28mm, then picking up the first bathroom, and then 22mm from there forward, and then reducing to 15mm as seen fit. Really if a bathroom is the last item then you can’t drop to 15mm until you’ve picked up the shower & bath. So, a minimum of 26 x T connections if you don’t adopt a radial manifold setup and fingers crossed after you’ve tested initially and boarded up. Another benefit is that for a new / self builder, you can just bring on items as work progresses, so no need to keep draining down / connecting / re-pressurising each time you add a new item. And, the party piece is hot return and flow rates. With a large single bore series setup you’ll be waiting for a very long time to get hot water out of basin sinks in particular as they are low flow / high frequency use and by the time hot had got there you’d have got fed up waiting. Pressure and flow rates are as uniform as you can get too, so question has to be.....why wouldn’t you do it? Not having isolations on the end of every run / at each outlet is a no-brainer, as most modern bathrooms won’t have somewhere for such valves to be easily / practically accessed, particularly for baths and showers etc. Regular ( series ) 0 Manifold ( radial ) 1 ( well 4 actually ).

Have you not got building regs sign off for this, surely it’s in the drawings that the structural engineer did. Not something you should be asking on a forum in my opinion.

I was initially having dormers to the rear but decided on 2 velux side by side with a sloped fixed panel beneath. The truss manufacturer used the following design which could accommodate a dormer in the future. MAIN ROOF PLOT 1[23064].pdf

Add the cleaner after You can cheat that rad by lifting it off its brackets with the valves hand tight ( into the rad not onto the pipe ) and then run the system with the top of the rad as the lowest part. When full, lock off the rad valves, swing it back up onto the brackets and best you can hope for for now tbh. Top job with the rest of it ?

That sounds like an extremely optimistic build time, particularly given shortages of building materials at the moment etc. Best of luck and I hope I am proved wrong. If you are only looking to rent accommodation over the winter have you looked at getting a long lease on what is normally a holiday rental? plenty of those on Skye.

There are two types of hard water mostly calcium carbonate (chalk) is the white stuff heating pipes should not fur up as there is only one lot of water in the heating system and it is rarely changed. Tony’s tips for kettle -only boil the exact amount needed, fully empty and brush out the element after each use - no scale it forms as water cools down hot cylinder, keep on 24/7 at lowest possible temperature. Change fitting and pipe at the top every ten years, immersion every 5 hot water pipes will be ok , tap delivery gauzes and sinters/plastic bits and shower heads, soak in vinegar monthly should not be a problem for the ashp

Geberit do loads of floor-fastened pans. They don't make it easy to order them or to sort out what fits with what. So ring them (in the UK) : the tech / help people are very good indeed. Order from reuter.de, much cheaper (or were when we ordered two) Need help with the German - PM me. Ian

I wouldn't bother but, apart from laziness, can't tell you why I think that. Oh, I know, our chippie says if you don't need to cut something, don't. Very nice man, very very nice man.

Floor to ceiling 2440, rise 204mm so stair 1 okay at headroom 2236mm Stair 2 is marginal at 2032mm but just okay. It's stair 3 onwards that is the issue. What is the width of the stair opening? Is that measurement D 859mm? How about make the stair only 800mm which is still okay with building regs so stairs 3 onwards are under the open space so okay. So it's only the "slope" from stair 2 to 3 that may be an issue? but my ensuring stair 3 onwards is entirely under the open area I think it will be okay.

1200 straps are fine for wall plate Go either side of openings 1500 Straps for trusses and floor joists

Our neighbour had the same problem with the road closure. When the water company came and dug up the road for his water connection he gave the guys a drink (£50) to lay a plastic tube along side it for him to thread the telephone wire through.

'Cos they're quality basically. Picked at random but concealed cistern / pan on floor: You need to add a flush plate of your choice. https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/19949.htm

If the pan is to sit on the floor then no frame required. A simple hidden cistern is needed.

Not sure they always appear on the portal? Did they get a confirmation letter from the local authority validating the application and confirming timescales?

No two cases the same. Depends on distances etc.

+1 fir manifolds but not necessarily isolators on every one (except where partial completion requires it). I isolate the feed pipes into the manifolds (one hot and one cold) this will suffice for mending taps etc. I also ran hot to basins in 10mm which speeds up hot water getting there a lot and gives more than sufficient volume.

I did a halfway house. Kitchen and utility each have their own feeds with local isolators. Where I used a "manifold" was for the 2 adjacent bathrooms. This gives me isolation for each in one place. And to keep pipework runs short, particularly hot water, the manifold is placed under the floor of the main bathroom accessed through a small trap door in the ceiling of the utility room. to save cost I "made my own"

I use full bore valves and get them from JTM

You may find that UFH is not the best option. Have you considered 'skirting radiators'?

Our Jeremy Harris put in solid copper between his ASHP and the distribution manifold. Then found it noisy. He then RTFM and found that the reason it came with a coiled flexible pipe was to dampen the sound.

28 or 22 is fine - may have an issue finding a TMV at 28mm for a decent price and most UVCs are input / output at 22mm so 28mm may be irrelevant.

You have to make sure there is no noise transmitted via the pipework. But basically, make a hole, reseal all membranes, stick pipes through and seal the gaps.

Drill an oversize hole with 10-15mm all round. Wrap a length of 22/28mm copper pipe long enough to do the wall plus a fitting either end with duct tape and centre it in the hole - wedge with some offcuts of armaflex then use expanding foam to fix it in place from both sides. Trim the foam flush and the tape the pipe to the OSB and then insulate as normal.

My view is that it is always best to insulate pipework, that reduces uncontrolled losses. Makes no real difference what the pipes are made from with regards condensation, that is a combination of RH and Temperature. Mechanically it is a different matter.

Major benefit which you are forgetting @SuperJohnG is elimination of joints within the structure of the building. Ever piece of pipe is a full run with only joints at either end. Also whatever the technical term is but I can flush loo and it doesn't affect shower when running.

Yeah he came round yesterday to inspect it and said it was all ok, there is no need for the double check valve and stop tap that is shown in the diagram above. They just connect to the end of our pipe, he said something about a small chamber to gain access to the connection valve at a later date when we switch over from temporary supply or we could just bury it our choice. regards. James was looking at the date on your picture says 2010 but maybe that was just the design date.

As I said my friend paid 3500 As apposed to the 2900 we paid The problem we found was that while others where cheaper they didn’t appear on many of the lenders lists Protec and Buildzone where the top ones But the most expensive

put the plumb bob in a bucket of water when windy. string will vibrate but won't swing around

Just as an advisory to those who do go manifold for the ease of isolating individual circuits - always cap the open end of the pipe at the point at which you terminate it, you will at some point turn the wrong isolator ......

Finished floor surface @Jilly ..? Could always float an engineered timber floor over the top of battens with a pug mix between so you could get away with 120mm of insulation with 15mm pipe and then 18mm flooring

If you're keeping the bed, for a new life elsewhere down the line, just cut the skirting. Skirting is pennies, but just keep the bits you chop out and caulk them back in when the time comes. Screw them to the underside of the bed for safe keeping.

If you go for the oscillating saw, then they usually come as one attachment to a "multitool" as linked above. Multitools often come up in Aldi and Lidl special buy days, and can be quite reasonable in price. It is also a tool you may find many other uses for. F

The simplest way to do this may be to obtain planning consent and sell the plot to others on the basis that they complete the project within an agreed time, then use some of the proceeds to do up the bungalow.

Andy, Ive had a simular issue, however I only have on mandiflod from an Oil boiler. No mater what I did i could net get the flow above 2.5l/s. Various circuits closed etc. Slow warm up times followed with short cycling. Ive fitted the Salu Auto Balancing Actuators, this has greatly helped my problem, leaving me to thing the old accutator did not open fully. It would seem even a mm of lost movement can alter the flow. I understand this a slight curve ball, but have you tried removing the actuators completely ? FLY

I used an airtight hatch but it is only 550*550 so no space for a ladder. It was ok but it did leak a little on my diy depressurisation airtightness test. Some extra sealant fixed it but it does not have the robust seals of a door or window. I like tony’s idea. I toyed with the idea of using a standard hatch and a pvc window as the other side of the airlock, perhaps a chunk of foam in the void for insulation. It would be a more robust option I feel.

I have two loft traps forming an airlock, both draught sealed, bottom one is fairly normal drop down Wooden ladder At ceiling level. Upper one sits 600mm above and hinges up from the loft boarded floor 100mm pir on an OSB board

I think you get to find out if SE adds anything in a couple of decades ?. Not sure how old you are but you may need a big magnifying glass as well.

When I was researching into how to install MVHR around eight or nine years ago I made a list of rules I found relating to connecting the unit to the outside. I'm sure these are not exhaustive and nor are they prescriptive, but it's what I used to install mine. 1. The inlet and outlet grilles should be 3m apart to prevent cross contamination of air. 3m was the distance I found mentioned most often. 2. The inlet and outlet grilles should be high enough (2m) to prevent interference by animals or children. 3. The inlet and outlet grilles should be on the same wall so they are affected equally by the wind. 4. The free flow area of the grill including insect screen should be at least as great as the cross sectional area of the duct. 5. The duct should be smooth wall to reduce air flow restriction. 6. Any ducting bends should be large radius of curvature or two 45 degree bends to reduce air flow restriction. 7. The ducting should slope downwards slightly to ensure any moisture drains to the outside.

Up to 75% off if you're quick!!!

I certainly have a BIG one ??