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Fly100

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  1. Couple of checks to do 1st. you say you have set it a 40c check the temp on the manifolds. My stat adjuster was set a 40c and flowing at 20c, just unscrew the screw in the centre of the knob and move it on the splines so the actual temp matches the displayed temp. I had multiple issues with flow rates and over temps etc, setting flow rates on one day was great but no good a week later. I bought those Salus auto adjustment acctuators and they solved it. Just to note , and happy to be corrected here, my understanding is they open fully at the start and only when to flow and return reaches 10c diff do they start to slow the flow rates down to above 7c difference.
  2. Im sure the Solar Edge Batts have two extinguisher in them.
  3. Hello, Im having my Solar Edge Battery fitted on Friday. Does any one have any tips or guidance for best results ? I see Octopus have have a new tarrif called Flux, any experiances ? I appreciate its fairly new. Thanks, Fly
  4. 200m2 region as a ball park at the min. I havent spoken to one yet hence my question. Wanted to get ahead of a few issues.
  5. Was thinking that a big pour like that will take some managing and its a big area with cracking potential and alot of force on the perimeter walls.
  6. Currently looking at getting ahead of some planning conditions. Looks like I will need to come out of the floor 900mm or 1200mm to resolve the flood issue. So the build is likely to be SIP construction, I dont like the idea of a 900mm concrete faced slab, is building the external walls in brick and then filling the area in the middle with hardcore, insulation and then screed up to FFL ? Im guessing the slab would have to be divided up into smaller areas. Im yet to instruct an Architect, just thinking about the challenges I will be coming across. Fly
  7. Hello all, An piece of land has come our way but to satisfy the Local Planning requirement we would need to build out the ground by 700mm min. I’ve recently completed a traditional build doing the same where we built a 900 mm high ring of engineering bricks on the external leaf and blocks on the internal with a block and beam floor. Is this kind of construction suitable for a SIP construction ? Im yet to contact and manufacturers / Architect as we have a few discussions to have 1st , but have read cold bridging needs considering. My intention is to under floor heat the house with 200mm of Kingspan under a screed. Thanks, Fly
  8. Interesting info and alot of data. Im considering doing something similar as my next project. We are about to have a Solar Edge Batt fitted, our main heat source is an Oil Boiler , but looking into making this hybrid with a ASHP to run through the night on the cheap rate during the winter while also charging the battery in winter days that aren’t sunny. Still sketching the idea on the fag packet but hoping I can progress it. Fly
  9. Doesnt work for me ( if it was 20p it be close) as we have Solar Immersion unit. Excess goes to the DHW tank and save us having oil boiler on in the summer for DHW.
  10. Hasty reply, I may have missed what you are actually trying to do. but if it helps :- I have Heatmiser UFH downstairs and running seperatly Evo Home running the Rads and DWH upstairs. I can operate both at the same time or independently and under there own schedules. FLY
  11. Have you tried recalibrating them. I suggest they may be out of cal over the summer months as they have not been powered ?
  12. To be fair when I checked last night it was chucking down, and everything was wet. Im on oil for condensing stops at 47C. Im trying to get my return temps down, but keep passing the 47C ( self imposed limit).Rads are balanced but im running Rads upstairs and Underfloor down stairs both with vey differnet demands.
  13. Hello fellas, Stupid question, if a boiler is giving out white smoke / steam from its exhaust is that an indication its condensing ? The drian pipe is a decent run and I cant see any water dripping out the end of it. Thanks, FLY
  14. Mine was filled with air and had no issues, Screed takes approx 1 day per mm to try and anything over 50mm approx 2 days. Mine was 80 mm thick in places and I left it 100 days and started the UF temp at 20C increasing it every 48 hrs over a week to its working temp. I must say at 100 days mine was pretty dry as the windows got fitted late on in the build.
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