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No Im a contractor and leave between 3 and 5 % Payable three months after completion

here you go. In prep for a DIY kitchen unit. All went in fine. Good luck

@Roz 1) Your fabric heatloss is 95W/K and your ventilation heat loss 62W/K (in January) so a total of 152W/K 2) With a 22°C difference outside to inside then your total heat requirement is 22*152 = 3344Watts 3) It would be usual to oversize the boiler by 15% giving 3344*1.15 = 3846Watts and add 3000watts for DHW giving a boiler size of 6344Watts 4) Casual gains are estimated at 483Watts but probably safer not to subtract these. I would say from these figures a 5kW heat source is to small.

How much? Here's what my roughly equivalent (bit bigger , but not much) window cost - triple glazed. Every single person who has seen it plays with it - weighs a ton, move it with one finger. In the context of comparing quotations, I found it really difficult to compare like with like. For me, detail contained within the the quote matters. Some producers were - to our mind - light on detail, and so were filtered out quickly.

£850 - I would have as well ?

At 7kW, it's less than a hob or decent shower? Showers don't soft-start either.

ok. thanks. I really appreciate your input and I will await a response from CVC before making a decision.

My house has 4 metres between it and the boundary so I didn't impact next door's trees. I would rather it was 2m off the boundary and I had more garden on the other side. At the price of land in this street I have lost the use of around 150sq metres which would be worth around £60,000. It is not the same as a ransom strip, I own all the land. As someone said, if people plant a tree next to the boundary they should know that they risk losing it if the neighbour cuts it back to the boundary, That would be a better law, your neighbour can cut a tree back to the boundary and if it dies tough, it was on their land. If this was the law people would be a lot more circumspect about planting trees right up against their neighbour's property which would help everyone out. Really you should be trying to stay around 5m away from the boundary. As to the OP I would try v hard to contact the tree owner, however, if I couldn't get them I would cut the roots all the way back to the boundary. If the tree dies the only liability is likely to be for the value of the tree. This isn't America and it won't be worth the cost and expense of someone suing you as this is all they are likely to get, especially if it is not protected and anything special. They cannot really argue any loss of enjoyment when they don't live there. If you cut it back to the boundary would you have space to install root protection and a small fence or brace to keep it away from your house whilst hoping it dies or falls over due to cutting away the roots.

It is, sent PM. Apologies but only myself working and inundated with quoting and Other work. Way behind but we’re back up in strength next week and back to the office as well.

Just the same principle that you apply to balancing radiators. Flow control valves on each duct battery and flow valves would help too. Could even use a 2 port UFH manifold but you would need to make sure you insulate the pipework well to stop condensation.

I first heard of them from members on here. @vivienz and @Russell griffiths are a couple that come to mind that both had Norrsken windows and had good things to say about them iirc. so the thanks should go to them! ?

Forgot to mention that our window has a large set (4m high) of external louvres for precisely the reason you give. Together they make a very pleasant combination in terms of light, shade and " air ". Wot that Kevin off Ch 4 calls a Breeze Corridor

Sorry, yes it was not an exhaustive list

Not necessarily, an output of 12.5kW at a C.O.P. of 4.6 implies an electrical input of 12.5/4.6 = 2.72kW. The remaining 0.28kW could be for things they do not include in the C.O.P. calculation (often pumps etc)

You need the real title plan available from land registry (<£10) by email or the seller. That will show your plot boundary. Then you could pay for a "map search" which i think involves you sending them a marked up plan of the land you are interested in. Limit that to the area between your plot and the highway. If its registered they will tell you who to. In my case it wasn't and the highway agency told me it was "land maintained at the public expense".

Ta Makie, you are like the Obi Wan Kenobi of roofing knowledge. The force is strong with you.

We have 310m2 and a caclulated boost rate of 370m3/h and will be using the Q600. My understanding is that the Q600 is good up to around a 460m3/h boost rate. If you need an even larger unit there is this model: https://www.bpcventilation.com/airflow-adroit-dv245 (930m3/hr!) (I personally would favour one unit over two..)

There is very little in it tbh, cost wise. I’d be tempted to take a punt on one of those cheap New Home units on eBay tbh, and if it lasts 10-12+ years then happy days. Depends if you’re going for RHI though and a suitable qualifying HP so the maths need to add up.

@Onoff gets the prize for most geographically distant British Mainland cultural insults in a thread page.

You can get 'slimline' UVC's which retain the smaller footprint, but the OP actually has their UVC so needs to work with what they've got For 400L, 500L and above I always put two smaller separate wall mountable expansion vessels in ( 2x35L for a 500L is my go to size as you can never have too much expansion, and the uplift is pennies ). That gets things up off the floor, or even up to a second storey or attic is not unheard of / completely permissible. Agree this is a candidate for a 7kW HP so as to add to the longevity and speed up the UVC recovery times a little. @Roz Just have a boost switch for the immersion and set that to heat up when you think you'll need extra 'volume'. 30 min / 60 min / 120 min boost settings are the norm, and are fool proof too as you don't have to go back afterwards and switch it off if you forget. Link

I told you someone ( @A_L ) who knows what they are doing would be along ?

Yet to find a Plot of our own but i have always been a great believer in people helping each other. If anyone has an ongoing build in the area and could use some help, it would be good to see how you are getting on and give my girlfriend an opportunity to see a self build in the flesh. I have a lot of years experience with erecting structures, steelwork, fabrication, timber engineering, cranage etc. and now own a company supplying cherry pickers (mobile elevating work platforms) and mini cranes etc. If i can be of any assistance and/or you have a build going on that we could visit, please get in touch.

@Onoff1/2” BSP according to this which would match up with your dimensions as it’s 20.9mm and 14 TPI

I think this is mainly meaningful once you have a list of what you want the rooms for and how you intend to live. Though I find that adding half a metre to once dimension adds more perceived space that might be expected, but that is in the context of contrasting to a normal practice. So eg a 4m x 4.5m lounge feels substantially spacious even compared to 4m x 4m, and you have something that is still a practical room once you have shelves or a desk at one side. Ditto 3 x 3.5m over 3m x 3m. Placig the door on the short side in that dimension may give a perceived extra size in a normal room as you are looking along something which you expect to be square rather than across it and your brain may assume a larger width too. Or it could work the other way ? . Also think about using circulation routes as dual purpose eg have a breakfast bar backing onto it if you know that in general you will not be sitting at the bar and wanting to walk past it at the same time. Particularly if you want a room of 2 halves the Golden Radio may be a bit short and fat. Remember that it has been used in design mainly for visual appeal when observed rather than utility for spaces to be experienced - which suggests more in proportions of your facade or garden rather than spaced to live in. F

7/8 14 UNF..??

That's nice but they don't need to source them, pay for them or install them You pay them to do what you want, so go do your research and if a tweak to the design makes your life easier then just get them to do it. Supply and fit as a package is the only way to go - numerous advantages namely there is zero VAT applied (vs you paying VAT and then reclaiming later), supplier is also responsible for the windows on site until they're installed. Make sure there is no ambiguity over what handling equipment is required and provided either as part of the quote or by you - no good a team of installers arriving and expecting a tele handler that's not there. Have you/architect done a draft SAP calc to see how that amount of glazing impacts the house performance? Have you/architect calculated overheating risk (extends from spring to autumn, not just summer) and designed in provision to minimise (external blinds, bris Soleil, recessed frames, solar film etc)? As a happy owner of a MBC house with Gaulhofer windows (including two 4.5m x 2.2m sliders, fingertip operated) they are unforgiving when the sun is shining through them. We specced external electric blinds for the east elevation and use internal drapes to reduce west sun in the evening (plus external blinds on the Velux roof windows).

For comparison, I was planning a 5kw ASHP for our 300m² build (majority of heating on ground floor only), bit upsizing to 7kw as there isn't a huge price difference and unit won't be running as "hard" as a 5kw.

You will need two units. The building control requirement of 0.3 ACH is the absolute minimum you want to work at and those units will be running at high speed to meet that. You really want to run at 0.5 ach and have the fan speed curve in the middle of the range, so there's the capacity for decent boost rate. so you'll need a much higher capacity unit. I'm just under 300m² gross floor area and borderline if I can get away with just one unit- looking at the zehnder Q600 and komfobent 700.

A quick scan through the SAP (section 8 ) tells you your worst case heat loss is just a shade over 2kW, about the same as my house. And mine is running fine from a 5kW ASHP running under floor heating downstairs and only in the bathrooms upstairs.

Well I have a 5KW ASHP no calcs, passive esk build, my house is bigger than yours my DHW tank is also bigger and it copes just fine. I found my ASHP on Ebay dead cheap, still new so took it as a punt and it paid off. Others will be along shortly (who know what their doing) and talk figures ?.

My guess (and it is a guess) would be the council. They may grant you a licence to drive over it or may sell it to you. Has anyone else nearby created a driveway over similar land?

Well I based my room widths on 4M (less carpet waste ?).

Ok that’s fine. It is 20mm MDPE by the looks of it but I would measure to be sure. If you can isolate the mains then just cut the pipe with a decent very sharp Stanley knife, and insert a couple of pipe stiffeners and an MDPE tee. You’ll need to find a short section of pipe to insert into the tee, then use a converter to 15mm and normal pipe from that point onward. Don’t forget to put an internal isolator prior to the outside tap in case of freezing or leaks.

Yep only where the pipe has to come into the cupboard.

Article on alternative to ABS with less warping.. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/asa-3d-printing-170820204/ I've not yet looked at availability or price.

As Peter said above is the way to go. If the pipes are not going to be accessable again once the units are fitted, make sure you seal up all around them, with silicon or whatever. My daughter had a nightmare with ants, and when i ripped half the place apart, a missing bit of plasterboard was the little blighters access point.

I'm with Temp, and the devil. IMHO that is not permitted devl. It's a wraparound.

Your first point of call perhaps: https://www.pavingexpert.com/york01

Is polished the same as honed? Ours are honed and we didn't do anything different regarding install. Maybe speak with your supplier if in doubt.

Well.....we have continued to carry on with the conversion of my daughters Cow Shed using Durisol blocks and fortunatetly we have a really good builder who is also a friend which helps. He has been amazing. We all went on the day course and he also studied many hours of internet content before starting so that he was totally familiar with the product. Converting around stancions wasn't easy, if we could have taken it down and just built with the blocks it would have been far easier. Cutting them and keeping the insulation around the steels was difficult but he managed it. Not realising that the ground level at the rear was as high as it was meant re-jiggling the design somewhat with lounge window being shoulder height, not being terribly amused with the architect and his idea of how the rear should have looked! He got sacked a long time previously, daughter and l got to grips with Auto cad and did the alterations to the drawings for both projects ourselves, not easy. Due to the ground height meant more foundations once the engineer saw what was necessary, she also has been a marvel having not come across Durisol blocks before. After applying copious amounts of water based bitumen type product (we bought the wrong stuff previously, it would have eaten into the insulation) lots of this, sheets of that etc.... the ground has gone back against the newly built wall. O'h and we had to get new steel beams inside to hold the roof up as the structure only holds a tin roof at the moment. This has been very handy keeping off most of the rain (we did have swimming pools earlier on this year and spent hours pumping it out or using buckets....AND it kept the sun off this week, especially yesterday! We are now ensconced in "The Silo's" you tube video's (if your bored with the telly) "How to turn 3 metal silo's into a house". Aplogies for the music on one...my own composition...more like an Indian restuarant theme! Pic 1. Natalie starts demolition July 19.Pic 2.The rear elevation.Pic 3 block and beam insulated floor, front door and kitchen /dining room elevation.. Pic 4 Steels being craned in. This end will be all glass. We have had 2 pumped pours but some of it has been filled by hand because (a) the crane wouldn't be able to get to the inside walls easily and Terry the builder was concerned about filling 170 blocks and having them move with the weight of the concrete going in. If your going to use Durisol blocks and have any queries, please ask, between Terry (builder) Natalie (site manager and order person daughter) or me....(Resin top installer and composer of awful music) please ask away, we will try and head you in the right direction (brick or poured concrete...hahahaha).

Good job you and I aren't neighbours then! In all seriousness though, if you were my neighbour and it was your tree I'd respect your right to adopt that position.... if you always loved that tree, and cared a lot about it's vital role in your lovingly tendered garden. Even then, I'd also expect you to respect my right to develop my own land, and at least explore the issue with me. If it turned out you were an absent landlord using a tree that you actually didn't care about just to hold me over a barrel to line your pockets, I'd perhaps think a little less of you. If you were an absent landlord who wouldn't even respond to my polite enquiries, I'd probably start a thread on BuildHub asking how to force the issue!

Another way of looking at this is, that the person who planted the Robinia was being selfish and inconsiderate. They would have known that the tree canopy and roots would be on neighbouring land. What right do they have to plant a tree knowing that to be the case. If you want a tree on your land then ensure all of it is on your land, if not then suffer the consequences of any work being done on the neighbouring land.

As above, you need to make every effort to contact him with a view to removing the tree to enable your development. Be very polite as you may need to rely on the correspondence later. Point out that the tree may cause damage to your property. Offer to remove it at you own expense and provide the details, insurance cover, risk assessments and method statements for your proposed contractor. Offer reasonable compensation to cover replanting of a tree in a more suitable location plus an additional amount. If you are unable to gain their consent, cut back the branches and roots to the boundary. If the tree dies after pruning it would be down to the neighbour to prove it was because of the pruning. You could offer to cover the cost of removal of the dead tree and replanting as above. Court action would be cost prohibitive for them and any award in court would likely be small.

Rearrange these letters to form an opinion; fcunigk pisne's pssi pu, rberewy

But there’s a photo of David Cameron on their website. Surely that’s a top notch endorsement right there!

Fens extend into Norfolk don't they? NFN and all that. ?

Although I did build one or two Baileys early in my career I left the combat engineer path and went technical so no kit bridges for me