Oz07

I've never seen ceilings done first. Round here the boarders get paid low 3 quid per m2 whether it's one massive area or small rooms. Not saying it can't or isn't done but I always fix top plate to the underside trusses

Like @wozza I've not had the problem others discuss. My plumber always likes to oversize the boiler though. I thought showers can go down to about 6l per min now? Also in new place with the manifold setup I find the water pressure drop is much less of an issue. Ie if flush loo while running basin it is barely noticeable whereas in houses where they share one 15mm supply the tap often slows.

I don't think 900 is that bad. Its 2 days in a workshop with the finishing and lacquer. Regardless of materials that's got to be 500 of anyone's dough with the overheads and labour. Add in material and profit. I doubt you're going to find it for half the price.

Depends think fd30 or 20 is pretty easy to achieve which is why they are using crittal glass

Mine too but probably only used 15 times max

That's the problem with these. I think the clue is in the name. Quality seems fine but missing or damaged and your looking at a week minimum delay. Ok for someone doing it themselves not ok for a professional with dates to manage.

I had the kanuf 34 blown in before and had to buy quite a few batts to stuff all round the top of the cav. Don't know if it was nessecary

How did u do the fingers again

Yeh I've got a few bungs 6" and 4" always like to test drainage to 1m. To be fair though I've never had a bad pvc underground joint. Sometimes I've had an air bubble/lock in a temporary fitting or something which can play tricks on you

If you can afford to loose a couple of inch a metal jumbo stud infront of the existing wall would be cleanest and easiest. Not sure how it performs db wise but I'd imagine well as have seen it on plant of building conversions to flats. @nod?

Is anyone going to specifically say if they are bad underground or not. Most trench blocks I've seem are aerated and the party line is that the air pockets absorb the freeze thaw cycle better

What about celcons which are transverse rated. I've used them in a block and beam before now as was getting cheap. They're sold as a one size fits all product.

Think I pay 1.50 per m2 labour for brickies to insulate

Underground?!

Ah maybe different in soffit then

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiF1riC5-3pAhW3gFAGHcI4AY4YABAKGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASE-RoovGd9vh9fOC8P_E-HYwFToY&sig=AOD64_2GHVC2Je1hXKPe9s6WbhEk0P3yMg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiYkrGC5-3pAhXXh1wKHRx1DSkQwg96BAgKEBw&adurl= Went for brushed finish

I think mine are ip65 Just went for the low profile leds

Poses the question does it matter if an airated block cracks below ground once back filled?!

On another note most trench blocks are aircrete. I think they're supposed to perform better underground than something dense and brittle. Think @PeterW knows a bit...?

I think most common reason aircrete cracks is too strong compo. Think you're talking like 6:1 for aircrete

Airated can be a pain for cracking. Lightweight concrete less so

The only way it's possible to avoid is to rip back of base units down or misalign them as like Joe90 pic if you have a worktop overhang on your doors. Peters photo has the worktop flush with the doors which looks good but might not if the doors didn't have the thin handleless edge at top.

That always happens. Worktops 610 end panels 600 ish. Usually I edge that end

Glass suckers, 2 of. Cheap enough on amazon

Mine have a switch in you can switch between cool or warm