Oz07

That's not a hoist as such surely it's just stopping spread. If 75mm wide I wouldn't worry about 20mm

He is the man in the know with regards boarding here but I reckon @nod has read that wrong and assumed your 7.50 labour price is per board not per m2.

The board price doesn't look great to me. The Labour price if just for fixing looks dear too. Over 20 quid a sheet for tacking

I don't think you do it by elevation. I've seen a north facing wall in 60s bungalow which has a thermal expansion crack thru a window.

Ideally you'd want any connection downstream of a loo to be in top third of pipe. I'm sure it would be ok where it is but just use judgement

I meant is there a loo further upstream of the connection we are talking about? If not I'd say your fine as the reason you put connection in top third is to stop stuff getting caught

Bog

Have u got a big upstream of that connection?

I buy studding a week of so before then sort it when I use. Bananas get used for noggins and bows get used for top or some plate or against walls where I can straighten. I do think treated is worse for changing

You might be able to twist that branch looking at it.

Should be within the top third of the pipe but looks restricted so just roll with it If you can't change

Also treated will be more likely to warp. The process makes it so.

I think level gutter is fine if you use deepflow. Looking good.

I think better behind a downpipe else you have to start bedding lintel on dpc. Yeh think bricks are around 12m blockwork less like you say. Think you've done right thing

I think masonry now on 12m before gap needed Google it. I've got a wall just under 12m and I've put one in the middle. They don't cost much to put in so just do it for piece of mind. You need the slip ties with the condoms

Would be an indirect connection if there already happened to be a branch cut in ?

1800 ish each maybe

@Russell griffiths

How many bags was that set @nod

If it's raft don't worry about the band seals

I'd maybe change the couplers for flex bands where coming out thru wall. Bit more leway with any future ground movement. Sure the couplers will work fine if you don't want to though

Hope not else I'll be in the shit

On this latest place I've stuck the skirtings 9n with pins and foam. Its a decent fixing but apparently they are easy to remove in future without damage to wall. Scraper or bread knife down the back.

Personally in latest place I've just accepted when the mdf skirt firs up from mopping I'll replace it. I started a thread on here but couldn't get any definitively moisture resistant gear. How often are you planning to be flooded @Mr Punter?

@ProDave you been in the Sam Smith pub by the river in York?