Oz07

https://www.howdens.com/joinery/door-fittings/door-linings/howdens-softwood-untrenched-door-lining-obj-sku-family-dfr2015

Trenched for 926 and I would assume 826 on reverse side. Otherwise you would allow chippie extra .5hr to trench. Realistically 10 mins. They also do in fd30 I think op will be struggling at 200 per set depending on finish on doors. Magnet doing the oak belieze atm for 50 quid unfinished in imperial. If you allow 100 for door and lining, 20 for ironmongery that's leaves you with 80 for labour to fit, buy stain/oil then apply

Howdens or magnet don't sell metric linings? I can't believe that sure I've bought them before.

Don't bother strapping till you've dobe the roof. Your bound to put the straps in the way otherwise

Lightweight (not aircrete) blocks you will fire screws straight in without plugs. Or nail as has been said.

Are you still blogging @Red Kite?

Taking this to next level plumber on the job I'm currently on ditches top seal and replaces bottom one for a pte? Plastic one. Also silicone both sides. Guy I normal use ditches top one and uses silicone both sides

im sure you wouldn't be scraping your knuckles on 915! I only mean to swap the current 826 for 838, thats actually an improvement in width

Sorry see @ProDave has that covered

You'd then be looking to get 838x1982 in your smaller openings if possible

Metric sizes are sometimes more expensive or harder to come by than imperial. Would it be possible to swap your doors and linings for 915x1982 then might be more avaiabliltiy

i only look at the one above

I think the boiler does that itself (sets flow temp) but this just limits the maximum temp it will heat to

That's what you said to do on mine if i get any air lock on the rad manifold system. I had the engineer turn the max heating temp down a bit on the boiler in the hope it stops any gases

Forky on site I'm on atm selling the red. Ten quid for a 25l drum. Got some for my mates boat

also speed, screws are slowwwww

I can't wait to see a decent temp difference between incoming and exhaust air. Not had it running for a winter yet most I've seen is 6deg up to now

It used to be a running theme on this forum people said if you had access to gas then use it. Regardless of how you build if you have mains gas is it not always cheaper? It's subsidised isn't it?

The problem is with a nail gun sometimes you get ahead of yourself and end up ripping stiff out. Normal nails you can bang in leave the head out then it's not so bad if has to be moved. Saying that I'd deffo buy one if you're doing a lot of work on this place. Sell it when you're done and you won't have paid a lot.

This is what I mean. They're getting signed off so it must pass but personally I think it's crap. Other sites they make you hook over the panel. Also pictured the dorner framing rough as a badgers arse I had to go alter a bit for the roofers today I couldn't put my name to work like this. 750k house n all.

Btw, yes deffo use for bracing. Also yes for fascia depending what it is. I had a treated timber backing fascia with upvc capping. These can be used for cladding so no reason not on fascia depending on material

Are you confident to do the roof? If you pay a chippie they should have one. If your deffo doing it yourself then may be worth buying. I have on but still use loose nails on some parts of the roof

Explain to a luddite how my Elec smart meter reports the readings? Has it got a small SIM?

Build your straps into the cavity at top of ceiling chord height. The straps are made to resist bending straight.

On the job I'm on they're fitting timber spandrel panels and face fixing the strap to the inside of the panels. The inspector comes round and pulls them up for not putting enough fixings in the length of the strap but somehow missing the point that even if there's a million fixings in the strap it's only relying on 2 or 3 screws into the studs on the spamdrel panel. These screws are also relying on the friction from the thread ie not in shear. Its rough as a badgers arse.