Oz07

Dip an offcut of dritherm in a water butt or puddle. I've seen it sat in a puddle for days, lift it up and the water just repels off. Doesn't wick or soak up at all really.

For internal?

I got 1.19 on my air test tony with parge. I reckon both methods would be as good at sealing the blocks. Disadvantage with parge coat is if it cracks behind plasterboard stuck on you wont know whereas you can see and fill any cracks in proper plaster.

The green blue and red looks straight out of some government office or emergency services. Would be far too bold for my liking...I imagine some designs suit it though

What are you making anyway @ToughButterCup window linings?

Silicone spray. Sometimes makes it gum up more but the cutter or tool slides easier....Im not up to speed with the science https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwiO6tXmnenrAhXIgFAGHQ5GCHEYABAdGgJkZw&sig=AOD64_2KqP3ORzDwPjdEdv4-kF9RdXxrtQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwih9c7mnenrAhWSEMAKHdkLCz4Q9aACegUIDRDPAQ&adurl=

Aren't weather conditions also more crucial to GRP?

Inward T on plan - get them off land registry 3 quid

Think @PeterStarck just has a couple of electric towel rads for heating?

Great views. House looks good too!

Yes the flush action does seem stronger

I've got one now. I dunno I suppose they are but it's not anything life changing

Never used the stuff

Id probably get change out of £2500 for an 'agila' type self compacting concrete at 14.5m3 Then you have to lay it, did your other price include placing? @Russell griffiths had a similar quandary recently but don't think he could get the concrete at the right money where he is?

Waste of time i'd of thought. If it gets as far as into the cavity you're knackered anyway

roofers who can slate I know on 200 and upwards a day if not price work. I think roofing is one of those things a lot of general builders have a go at and think they can do but are crap. Make sure they're coming via recommendation

btw I don't open them in bathroom...

I still would (and do) have openers in the bathrooms. You'd regret it if the MVHR packed up and couldn't sort it for a few days. I just made the post because it didn't occur to me how much less I have them open. I open window to get fresh air but I don't need to. As above just cut the excessive amount down.

What is the score if you have a long window and the ice isn't perfectly flat or the opening is out of level. Does packing the cill create a lot of small point loads or is it a case of once it's foamed below it's back to being once larger load across a bigger area?!

I'm not saying eliminate openers, just don't go OTT like I did. Brain was still speccing windows as if it would be a normal house without ventilation

Just a thought I've decided to post in case anyone comes across while deciding what to do with their windows... In hindsight I would have specced a lot less openers on the windows and had a lot more direct glazed. It's my first house with this ventilation system so I was a bit green. It would have saved cost and sometimes improved aesthetics. Apart from satisfying MOE requirements I'd cut down to the minimum openers and save some money. You literally never use them. I've got 2 openers either side of my french doors with a transome halfway through the frame. These could have been full length direct glazed would of looked better and been cheaper. In the lounge i've got 6 opening casements, ridiculous, i'd of just had 2 in the windows on opposite walls. The windows which were split into 3 sections being 1.8m wide i've had 2 openers and 1 fixed pane in centre, I would have reversed this in hindsight. Just a tip in case anyone is as green as I was and it doesn't occur to them to save some money!

Digressing but as @CC45 says above I think it's better to fit loose and foam. It's what I always do now. A lot quicker because they can be cut to a common size and the foam reduces any of the wind washing effect bypassing the insulation. To me it seems a much better method but I wouldn't profess to be a boffin with regards to the science of insulation.

I don't trap where connecting to S/W

Gully with grid to take waste or rainwater. Can be taken apart without downpipes being in the way. I suppose you should shoe it and not cut out the grid but has a leaf guard at the top. Sits on fins which keep the water flowing

I'm only guessing thats the reason. Normal taps seem to have 10mm flexi's this looks to be on something like 7mm. I get 1.9 bar and with a 32mm supply around 20L per min flow rate from garden tap so my pressure/flow isn't particularly bad, but likewise if you have something a lot better the tap could perform better?