That's the problem with these. I think the clue is in the name. Quality seems fine but missing or damaged and your looking at a week minimum delay. Ok for someone doing it themselves not ok for a professional with dates to manage.
Yeh I've got a few bungs 6" and 4" always like to test drainage to 1m. To be fair though I've never had a bad pvc underground joint. Sometimes I've had an air bubble/lock in a temporary fitting or something which can play tricks on you
If you can afford to loose a couple of inch a metal jumbo stud infront of the existing wall would be cleanest and easiest. Not sure how it performs db wise but I'd imagine well as have seen it on plant of building conversions to flats. @nod?
Is anyone going to specifically say if they are bad underground or not. Most trench blocks I've seem are aerated and the party line is that the air pockets absorb the freeze thaw cycle better
What about celcons which are transverse rated. I've used them in a block and beam before now as was getting cheap. They're sold as a one size fits all product.
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Went for brushed finish
On another note most trench blocks are aircrete. I think they're supposed to perform better underground than something dense and brittle.
Think @PeterW knows a bit...?
The only way it's possible to avoid is to rip back of base units down or misalign them as like Joe90 pic if you have a worktop overhang on your doors. Peters photo has the worktop flush with the doors which looks good but might not if the doors didn't have the thin handleless edge at top.
I had the leds on latest place. I find they don't seem as bright but I had them because were a lower build height and I only had a 120mm ish void. Also used them in soffit because rated as you say. 12.50 ish a pop, brushed finish if I remember right