Oz07

Was it worth those barriers!? Looking good apart from that

Think people have done it with soil pipe and vent caps or some other fitting before

I don't think deducting the original blokes invoice will wind up the OP, more likely the other way round. I doubt he will have the front to challenge OP. For one he has let him down for two the work wasn't right

Wouldn't be the first job been first fixed without Windows. Even timber partitions. You put sole plate on dpc any way. Couldn't you nail up some transparent polythene over the holes

If you pay attention the green beacon keeps flashing when some operators get out. They know the tricks

Leave howdens 4 weeks, they will call you, tell them your ready to place order half price and your not playing their silly games of sending competitor quotes. They will drop their price, at this point I usually still go with someone else just to discourage this business model.

Have trusses ever been at 400 centres or are you referring to rafters? I bet it's more common than you think people using 19mm batten with 60p centre spacing which would likely cause a roof to look bumpy.

I find 22mm about right. Even that can catch with thick underlay

Wasn't specifically talking about that case, just in general. I've never really met a window fitter who takes pride in their work. Seems to be a rough trade then you get the firms expert come to fix up or adjust any issues.

@craig is there not an industry standard fitting guide a bit like the one BWF produces for stairs. It's very generic but covers most essentials. I'm sure most carpenters would be capable of fitting these Windows if they knew the exact specifications/details. Always seems to be a lottery with window fitters whereas if the customer has a chippie they trust I'm sure they could manage. Neck I even think @Russell griffiths even fitted his own And he's a rough arse tree surgeon.

Just do your roof if you want a chance of passing ?

I got offered £12 m2 as a goodwill gesture for replacing some faulty click LVT. I'd guess more though I bet people want 30 quid

I don't understand the science but awhile ago there was a discussion with regards pozis As i remember if built in to blockwork the deflection was less compared to on hangers/top chord on top of ledger. It was to do with the end of the joist not being tight up to the ledger and this gives it room to move. I think built in the friction of the blockwork stops this. Can anyone link/remember the discussion?

My CU has surge protection. Sparky said it's not quite a reg yet but he thinks it will be in his next update

Didn't we discuss previously deflection is more likely with a ledger because they're not a tight fit on the ends and this increases bounce? One negative to that... I'd think your ok putting a ledger on once 2 or 3 courses above where you need to be, at worst built overhand from the scaffold outside the building

@Simplysimons original comment was meant as in - build the frame from i joists I think. Wasn't exclusively referring to floors

Not doubting @Mr Punters advice but just saying what I'd do

I'd stick with standard 2100 internals purely for simplicity. I never look at these and think they're too low

Usually head heights should align all around btw

I've got 2100 heads with 2550 ceilings. Its about the biggest I'd go. Would deffo want higher heads with 2650. If you go 2400 could you not have transome then fixed light above doorframes

I marked 2 lines on an offcut of fascia and used that when nailing so my 2 rows of nails are at exactly the same height on the fascia all around the house. On the front elevation I must've done something wrong because 1 nail on bottom row is about half inch lower. It annoys me but I'm not going to change that length because of it. Typical thing you will notice but a punter never would...

Its why there's tolerances in the trade. Put a lining in a stud partition this week, it was flush with plaster at top about 10mm proud at bottom the partition is so far out of plumb. I ask bloke who's running the job what he wants me to do with it he asks me if I can fire some pins in the outer edge of the arc to bend it back to within a caulk gap off the plaster. Ruff Ruff eh - I didn't do the first fix btw!

Make some practice cuts on a sacrificial piece of offcut see what works for you

Contrary to advice I find in real world my tack saw produces less chipping on underside of cut the deeper it is. I find if I set it to a mm or so more than material the cut isn't always perfect. Set it to 10mm more and it is. I keep sharp blades too

I've got good method of fixings. They are bad for cracking.