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About Nick

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  1. These steel partitions are standard on every big new-build / development I've been to here in the UK (assume because they are faster to fit with less mess) and I've never seen flexible conduit once . Some brands actually have pre-punched and chamfered holes for cables so it's not even common to see cable grommets. If you're drilling your own holes though, I'd definitely use cable grommets at a minimum. 18th Edition, plus your own peace-of-mind.
  2. I take it the cord is on the outside of the building then? Is there a solution for windows higher than the ground floor?
  3. The fabric versions tend to be very strong synthetic fabrics which are really more like a heavy vinyl sheet. They normally have small perforations in them so some air can be allowed through without affecting privacy, and they're tensioned either by steel guide ropes or aluminium side-rails. I'd have no concerns about strength for a typical window/door. they can be be made at ridiculous sizes (4m x 3m for a single blind). The only issue I've seen is that the less-plasticy fabrics on offer can be hard to clean if they get hit with wet mud or something similar that can get right into the weave of the fabric.
  4. Interesting... googled them and although they're a bit clunky looking compared to european roller blinds I'm familiar with, they're not too bad. They've got a separate solar panel which keeps the battery capacity requirements down. In a country without aussie-level sunshine, I'd think they would struggle. At some point, it has to be easier to bite the bullet and run some wiring. I'm sure you can at least get powered blinds with a separate transformer so the only wires you need to run through the facade are low voltage dc ones that would just need a tiny hole....
  5. I wouldn't get your hopes up of finding one. Sadly, there's really no reason for a supplier to develop a system like this. The cost and bulk of the batteries would make it very impractical even if there was enough demand to justify designing it.
  6. I know there are UK suppliers of external roller blinds. Can try to find a list when I'm back in the office but off the top of my head, a company called Shy are a big UK manufacturer and have dealers across the country. I've fitted them. It's pretty simple. Aluminium casing holding the motor / wireless controller and blind material just needs to be either face fixed or top fixed to something.
  7. Concrete screws for me speed-wise.
  8. OK so googled it.. As suspected, "Sieger" is just a made-up / marketing brand comprised of a lot of cheaper products in the market from various companies, rebadged to make them look premium. The "Sieger Slim Casement" is a Cortizo Casement Window. The "Sieger HD Casement" is an Aluk 58BW Casement Window Both are basically low-cost replacement windows so yes, those u-values are probably accurate. Not saying there's anything wrong with either product, but you won't get eco new-build u-values out of either of them.
  9. Very true, but I can't help feel that the fact people continue to buy new-builds sight unseen when there are older properties available means they must be broadly satisfied with them. You'd at least expect to see a premium on older houses with new builds selling for less per m2 if the latter were generally accepted to be lower quality - if anything it was the other way round last time I checked.
  10. While I consider the quality of new-builds generally to be crap (people in the construction industry relish telling you that they'd never buy a new build themselves), I can only assume that the general public must be by-and-large content with them and that the disaster scenarios are comparatively rare. If they weren't, the properties wouldn't sell so well. One of the reasons there is incredible pressure to finish builds on time at the expense of quality control, is that the properties are often 90% sold before the building is complete. By the time you are at the snagging stage, the developer has lawsuits on their hand from people who have been waiting to move into their new home or let them out to tenants for months (the build will always be late to some degree). This is why developers take the commercial decision to let people move into buildings that are half-finished and sort out the snagging later. Much harder to prove poor build quality than breach of contract. If the buyer is an investor waiting to let the flat out to a paying tenant, they won't care about a few issues anyway. Let the tenant go through the hassle and disruption - they hardy every have the time or money to sue... and so it goes on.
  11. +1 This is how I've always understood it to work. It is the responsibility of the specialist contractor (subbie) to ensure their works comply to building regs. Even to the point where the approved construction drawings show something that contravenes the regs, as an "expert" in your field, it is your responsibility to spot it and make sure it is changed. Have had plenty of scenarios like that and the blame is always put back onto the sub-contractor for causing a delay, even if it is to draw attention to an error that could have life-endangering consequences. In many cases, the main contractor will just pressure them carry on as-is and say they will rectify it later. One of the MANY ways in which dangerous and shoddy details end up getting built.
  12. If you want the truth, find out from the company the actual brand / system the windows are. Never heard of "Seiger" before. Sounds like a classic marketing BS name to make a standard product appear German/Scandinavian.
  13. True. For direct impact noise, the only thing that will really help is proper decoupling. Hanging the plasterboard ceiling on resilient bars will help to some extent but is a PITA to do. Even then, it's not exactly night & day difference (the one time I've done it).
  14. Extra plasterboard on the ceiling below is the cheapest way of improving acoustic performance of the floor detail. Mineral wool under decking next-best. I've tried premium underlays / thin resilient-layer types of products between floor finishes before and they make very little difference for the cost.
  15. In reality you are paying for insurance. The standard stuff will be painted to 60-80 microns anyway as it's very hard to control powder coating thicknesses and not worth taking the time to paint some lengths thicker, some thinner, e.t.c. In my experience the extra money is just to cover the supplier's cost to come out and replace/repair any damaged coatings if they happen to peel over time. Also bear in mind that you will need to have cleaned the frames regularly (depending on what the maintenance guide says) to make any claim under warranty. Which Items are 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5?