Oz07

Are they attic or fink trusses? If attic I'd go with crane

Either end

Fill the concrete up to around the bottom of the gravel board. Had a guy dig the holes for mine the other week were works of art no more than 8" diameter circle

I've got the osma level invert ones but restricted to max 600mm depth. I'd not worry about going into the side of a regular chamber providing you have sufficient and regular flow coming through the main level section behind the chamber. I've never had to go back to a system to deal with blockages from this so don't think its that much of a concern

I know a plumber in the south earning 6 figures a year on new build work. That's roughly 400 a day. Then again guys up here earning less than 200. @Nickfromwales might know the rates better is he still about?

That's good of him. I think most builder customers would have already told him that was happening. Force majeure!

@LA3222 just did it diy might be worth checking thread out

I have a small amount to do above some fitted wardrobes. I'm talking 2 vertical joints 300mm long max. I was planning to use the type of easi fill I already have with paper tape. Think I'll get away with it?

Are they 2 different doors

I would think mdf more stable internally than ply

Yes that's what it was for cyclone strength winds I think

With long enough boards you can do away with any joints on the non papered edge anyway. Just keep them to internal corners. @Russell griffiths in qld with your house did you have to leave all your internal partitions short of underside of trusses? I remember they used to get left a couple of inch short with brackets which allowed up and down movement but not sideways. This was 20 years ish ago but that's why everything had coving

Resale would families with kids like them having access to ensuite maybe a comsideration

Easier to just nog id of thought

Papered edges stronger than cut edges that's why perpendicular. I always normally nog if 12.5mm boards so every edge has solid backing. Last job I used 600mm centres with 15mm plasterboard and no noggins. Unsupported long edges. Was ok but think I still prefer 12.5mm on nogs

Order a few more samples you'll have enough for your garage!

I'd concentrate on anything that will hold your scaffold up first. All roofing materials. Can be stored on site.

Just fly it over. All i've ever done. Perhaps a whack with a hammer with a lump of timber between if it is excessively proud but the timber to timber hangers aren't usually overly thick.

How deep is that reveal?!

Can you still achieve the u values with 50mm insulation of is it different with is being above a basement? Looks good

If your plumbing is off a manifold and you put an isolation valve before the appliance what does achieve?

Yeh you're not passing thru wall crack on

65kg ea! You need to eat your spinach I'd guess half that for 2ft slabs

That had conc lintels on each leaf above. It's a bad photo to put up really in terms of brickwork!

Want me to send your worrying head into overdrive @AnonymousBosch ? Have you allowed for any differential settlement. This is in a 150mm pipe but by regs should be 200mm. 50mm all around if going thru a wall. What's your foundation detail?