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Oz07

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Everything posted by Oz07

  1. Make sure you report back with your findings as I'm interested. Last job I had 150mm cav, aircrete blocks and blown in wool. .18 u value but I would of preferred using denser block with beads like yourself. I just found it hard to get reliable prices for eps blown bead. as jsh says if living in property for some time and your not restricted with your plot size it would be interesting to see payback on 200 cav u value
  2. 50 and 75 pir if 5mm isn't a deal breaker
  3. I got 150mm cavity lintels cheap enough. There not so unusual now
  4. How you doing 325 in block? I was thinking for a job the other month and I thought rather than pay thru nose/long wait for 350mm trenchers it would be easier to lay 3 blocks. 1 on edge, 2 on side next to. Then for next course the same but put the edge block under opposite leaf. Seemed lass faf than filling cavity?
  5. Presuming you painted that string!?
  6. I've done it before you still leave a margin but it just then looks like a rebated lining. Helps when you haven't done the first fix and they're out of plumb
  7. Use clay then and do away with the bedding on pipework. All of a sudden £300 on bedding doesn't sound too bad!
  8. Not advice to rely on but I've found a lot of our tax system - outside of the realms of paye rely on honesty and compliance from the persons involved. I'm not encouraging avoidance btw. I've transferred land before though and have used values which were reasonable on sdlt. No one has ever checked these figures but obviously they could. The point im getting at is be wary of paying for professional valuations. Aslong as you don't take the piss it would likely never be checked.
  9. Might be in the compo
  10. I screw linings after pilot and countersinking all legs at the same time. It's slow but I like linings to be spot on. Watch out your not fixing linings where lock or hinges go. Recipe for blunt chisels. I would never screw the architraves on that just seems rough as hell to me. 2nd finish nailer all day. I've seen people do the whole set at time but seems to much agro to me. I go bang all the heads on then cut all legs. Leaving out rooms where flooring to be fitted first.
  11. I always join on joist it's not hard if you've set joists out for a multiple of 2400. Doesn't waste too much and I just trim all outside after finishing deck
  12. Would that hall give enough space with regards to disabled regs. You need the 800mm clearance between doors plus certain allowance to turn? Same issue for gf wc. May just need tweaking with slightly wider stairs and hall
  13. Yeh my guns never been right since I used this gas 2/3weeks ago. I've serviced it twice but never had a lint free cloth to hand so hoping when I do it next time with the cloth it's 100%. Is there anything else you can do apart from clean and oil? I can't see what else goes wrong
  14. Really struggled on last build as used some left over 4" duct for water and kept catching on corrugated sides. Tried a few tricks which didn't work before I noticed some 10mm speedfit knocking about. Straight through with rope on end, rope tied to mdpe, mdpe pulled straight through
  15. No I mean you don't rip 200mm into 25 you cut 25mm gear to the desired width. You'd certainly struggle at 200mm thick
  16. Are you having a laugh?
  17. Seen it loads. 100mm rip will be fine. Merchants will do it on wall saw if you ask nicely. The polythene holds it in place. You will prob end up using a lot of 25mm otherwise and more wasteage on your thicker sheets
  18. Keith vaz will sort u out
  19. It's being built overhand. Guessing he doesn't want to climb out on the corner to take the line up!
  20. I saw one used on a job last year. As has been said the finish was so good I pity the bloke who has to touch up when done
  21. Never done it at a shed. What did you pay out of interest? I don't pay that much for 70x45 and find it much more rigid
  22. Is your mains water to come in one of those 63mm ducts. Be weary of water supplier and their inspection criteria. Sometimes they want to see 4" duct. God knows why.
  23. The windows are fixed into timber frame thru reveals over there too. They're a "structural" part of the window I suppose
  24. The windows come with reveals pre fixed in oz and are put in before brickwork skin on 1st fix. Anyway i I don't think that ply is 3 layers. They're probably cleverly using some rips as an architrave. I agree looks cool
  25. I'd rather have ic's and ridding points than not have them and need them! You know you can use the lids which can be paved
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