Oz07

I try to go for dpc just makes life easier for seeing where the building will sit in relation to ground sometimes if far enough away you can leave I'm and measure off when you come to landscape. I suppose that string method sounds fine. Whatever works for you I often check the diagonals once I've got 4 square lines up anyway. As has been said 10mm in 10-20metres will be fine. Could be slack in the tape

Elec tape on strings is your friend when using pythagorous or 345 to check square

Looks a lot better than before. Better overhangs now. Not sure central pillar is nessecary as looks to be ridge board not ridge beam. Won't do any harm though. Usually use straps which span 3 rafters on newbuild. You should probably just add some solid noggins behind those straps to be 100% although doubt it will go anywhere now.

Dug up a lead main at about 400mm in the week. Sure insulation down to 750 be ok

Drop is about 2.7 metres plus 300mm along ceiling if you would like to tell me difference between 15mm and 22mm

These pipes come thru ceiling of an entry, down an external wall, and back into the house at close to ground level. Yes hot and cold to downstairs wc This pipe work will be external and down an external wall but in a entry between 2 properties. No other route for various reasons. Intetesting comment re 22mm pipe. I'm thinking belt n braces for the small cost of 6m of trace kit as electrician has work to do anyway may be just better off using this. No problems re clipping pipe then

Thanks. Like others have have said would show the partition in build control drawings

Also will 2 layers work over top of each other? ive seen some 15mm bore 25mm total thickness thought this was appropriate?

I thought insulation would be plenty as have done this with standpipe before. However have known pipes to freeze in houses but suppose they are unprotected. Any reason rodents would go for the insulation?

Got to pull a hot and cold down from a first floor ensuite, above an entry, down thru the entry back into wall at ground level. Has to go outside into entry for various reasons. I had assumed pipes could just be insulated as in foam lagging as thats what you see in outhouses. My plumber (although not having seen the job thinks it may freeze). Were in the midlands and the entry is closed of at one end (so no breeze thru), the pipe drops will be halfway down entry. I cannot imagine the water freezing in there if lagged but perhaps am being naive. We are in the midlands. What do you lot think?

That's how I understood it. Upto you what you do with the shell. Just found the constant reference to 2 bedroom throughout planning application statement and reports.

Departing from the CAD argument and back to the planning. If I have a dwelling which is 100m2 what are the implications of changing it from 2 bed to 3 bed. The approved plans show 2 bed with a space for 3rd bedroom but without the partition which would close off the space. The application went to committee, while parish recommended approval, planners recommended refusal. Application was eventually approved with reference to two bedroomed dwelling. Much reference was also made to two bedrooms and lack of smaller housing in village in the planning documents. If the dwelling isn't being made any larger can they refuse you a third bedroom? Could this bedroom just be referred to as office?! The house has 2 parking spaces shown which would be appropriate for 3 beds with this local authority.

Never mind the Flint get that art up on your wall

Yeh I though of another problem aswell. You couldn't use one either end as you'd be working between two fixed points. So it's either one of those on bottom and sleeve on top, or replace the lot. I'll have a look today see what I think.

I did a minor amendment or something called similar once. It was a cheap application and a quick decision. Had as the same problem as you so just submitted an app saying building 100mm larger all round due to increase in wall thickness to achieve better energy efficiency. Stated that all internal volumes/ room sizes to remain the same. Just gave me peace of mind incase and smart arse surveyors got a tape out when I came to sell.

Stressline but they're beans are always dog rough. Have an engineering brick on hand to smooth them down!

Whether that fitting could be used upside down or would it be asking for trouble. If they're made to be water tight and stand a pressure test no reason they couldn't be used upside down?

It's not just a vent there's bends and connections above. Ill see if they're bothered about having a flex seal

http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/floplast-sp140-universal-soil-pipe-connector-110mm-black-(pack-of-10)/?gclid=CK-47L7Ons8CFUgW0woddxoIMQ if this accepts the cast in the top, and will go into 110pvc this is what I'm after. Will look a lot neater than band seal

Will do ta

Oh no I don't mind putting a plastic branch in. It's just that the punters might think the band seals look a bit temporary. Specifically on about the fittings to join the two

Apart from flex seals / couplers is there a better looking fitting for connecting cast to PVC then back to cast. Something like a multiquick i I have to interrupt a cast iron stench pipe with a PVC 90 branch so would need 2 different fittings presumably. One to take PVC in female and one to take cast in female.

Ps well done on the art work don't show heritage England!

Water board are notorious for finding something wrong with what you've done. Or something additional for you to do. In your case I gather you already have a water supply so don't need them to approve before you connect? anyway take photos of the trench, tell him it's 4" duct and where you bring it up into house use a bit of 4" drain

If no inspection by water board then don't worry your duct size will be fine. If it's thru it's thru