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lakelandfolk

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  1. Yes Nick, indeed I have. In fact I have installed quite a few UVC's in the past but not since 2010 when the G3 certification was introduced. I was close to retirement at that time and decided not to undertake the courses required to get a ticket. Instead I spent my remaining working years installing kitchens and bathrooms as a subby for a local improvement store. I still have my tools and quite a few fittings etc so feel confident I could complete the work correctly and safely, albeit somewhat slower these days. We can create a space in the plant room circa 700 wide x 630deep and 2400 high so a standard 250L cylinder + pipe work,fittings, expansion vessel etc should fit OK. I have seen on line Gledhill 1603 high x 530 @ £410 and Telford 1330 high x 554 @ £540. Can you suggest/recommend a cylinder that you would normally to supply to your customers? I would of course welcome any up to date tips, suggestions etc you might think appropriate Regards, Ian
  2. That's interesting, after all a direct UVC set up is pretty basic and he labour element saved would pay for a Myenergy Eddi
  3. Again, amazingly helpful info. I will certainly ask the engineer if he will do labour only. The standard off the shelf cylinders shown on the cylinder2go site would be OK. We would need pipework to the left, immersions to the front and we have space above for the expansion vessel. I am correct in saying it is illegal to install a direct UVC without the appropriate G3 certificate?
  4. Hi Nick, We have decided, following the various SA experiences and comments from other forum members, to get a quote for a suitable 250L UVC from a highly recommended, G3 certified engineer who lives in our small community. https://www.heatershop.co.uk/solar-iboost-solar-immersion-controller is this the kind of control unit that you hinted at in your earlier posting?
  5. Many thanks Nick, this forum never fails to amaze me, so many kind folk ready to share and help. I am in my 83rd year but determined to do my bit for my grand children and theirs. We know the financial investment we have made over the past 5/6 years will not be recovered in my life time but we will continue as long as possible to reduce our carbon footprint. We have found a local heating engineer/plumber who is G3 qualified so will be seeking his advice next week re cost, (and potential disruption) of an UVC installation as you describe. We have a retrofitted Solax X1-AC inverter which converts AC back to DC for the battery charging. Not sure how sophisticated the Solax X1-AC is but I will ask the people next week who supplied and installed it.
  6. Thanks Guys, I bow to your superior knowledge, yes you are correct, a basic electric only unit is £2380 supplied, £3290 fitted. The more I read the more confused. My Wife has suggested that we could remove a wardrobe in the ground floor bedroom to accommodate an UVC and the installation completed by a G3 qualified person. ie £550 + labour and additional materials. We will try to obtain a quotation next week. There are just two of us (retired) and the bulk of DHW is for showers, hand basins, sinks, and only the occasional bath. We notice that a UVC can be fitted with dual immersion heaters which might fit our usage pattern, but then we ask, is there an electronic control box on the market that would automatically maximise/switch between the 4 hour grid off peak, surplus solar generation and battery storage? We have 12.6 kwh battery storage and up to 6.3kwh solar and use Octopus Go to top the battery up. We also have an EV which is often charged during the off peak period. Are we expecting too much from our solar electricity/battery storage and off peak electricity?
  7. Many thanks to everyone, looks like if we decide to go for a Sunamp then an approved installer is the way to proceed. As you say, needs a bit more thought if reliability is still an issue. Space for an UVC would be difficult to find and probably require us to continue using the gas. We would love to stop relying on gas, and were looking at options even before the current Ukraine situation. We have already invested heavily by completing a comprehensive retrofit energy efficient upgrade of our home (EWI -Triple Glazing - Solar & battery storage etc) but our budget is now limited and would not stretch to ASHP etc. I guess it was the appeal of "instant hot water on demand" without using gas the drew us to Sunamp.
  8. Thanks Peter, yes I would indeed include a timer and also water filter as we have hard water here in Lancashire. If I follow the Sunamp installation instructions to the letter then see no reason why the product guarantee should not be applied.
  9. Sorry to bring this up again because I know the DIY installation of Sunamps topic was mentioned some time ago but I can not find it. We are considering installing a Sunamp Thermino 210e or Uniq eHW which is the basic unit which we would power via grid off peak (Octopus Go). The Sunamp would be for DHW only which is currently provided from a gas combi boiler. We have solar and battery storage but would like to keep it simple. We have requested a quotation for supply only from North West Heating and they say they can't do supply only because installers have to be trained and authorised by Sunamp. I know we can purchase a unit direct from people like https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/ but if we go down the DIY route will the Sunamp guarantee still apply? I am a competent plumber and, having seen the installation instructions on line, confident of undertaking the work myself. North West Heating are probably adding circa £1000 for installation. Most of the Sunamp posts I have found on the forum are 2018 - 2019. Has anyone got experience of the latest Sunamps? Have they sorted out some of the issues?
  10. We have Solar panels with retrofitted 12.6kwh batteries and Solax AC TO DC inverter. Where would a Sunamp electric supply be connected for one with electric heaters only or one with electric heaters + solar? We would hope to use off peak and surplus Solar when available.
  11. Looks like it's not worth the expense and hassle. it is MCS installed and we have a FIT agreement dated December 2016. Many thanks
  12. Hello, We already have a 6.3kw PV array on the house with battery storage. We are wondering if it would be viable to add a further 4 panels, about 1.4kw, onto the garage roof. The garage has a 2.5mm underground feed from the house and a small CU. I believe we could use the existing cable to feed the garage generation from the inverter back to the house but that it could not be recorded on our fits meter or utilised to charge the batteries. Can anyone confirm that is the case? Also if we decided to run a new cable from the new garage inverter to the house and via the fits meter, a distance of about 30metres, would there be a noticeable voltage drop ? and what size cable would be best?
  13. Hi Jeremy, Many thanks for your prompt response to my PIR problem. You were spot on with your red herring theory. The PIR was in set up mode and I failed to realise that when activated it would only power the load for about 5 seconds. I was testing the line out voltage with my multi-meter in the PIR which was 240 v but by the time I had come down the ladder and moved to the location of the driver ( in the adjoining room ) the out voltage had been disconnected by the PIR timer hence the odd reading at the end of the cable. I adjusted the cut off timer to 5 minutes and hey presto, 240v at the driver end of the cable. These items, 2 metres of LED Ribbon, a driver and PIR were a car boot sale buy so always some uncertainty and confusion that all were working OK. I do like to recycle but sometimes it can cause problems, this little job finished up taking 3 hours instead of a typical 30 minutes, but all is OK now. The new PIR I purchased has been returned to Toolstation and a full refund received. Once again, thanks for your help. Ian
  14. Hi, Just installing a PIR for low voltage LED's in under stairs cupboard but can't get it to work. I have fitted the same PIR in other rooms in the house with no problem but I can not get the required 240 volt supply at the LED driver end of the cable. When movement is detected, I have 240 volt coming out of the load cable inside the PIR but at the other end of the cable ( 4metres ) about 23 volts only. I have replaced the PIR with a new one and also the 4m of cable but the same situation exists. I know it sounds impossible, 240v at one end of a 4m length of 1.5mm cable almost nothing at the other end. Can anyone suggest a possible solution?? Many thanks
  15. We are going to replace our existing UPVC windows with triple glazed wood. Do we have to comply with building regs as per new build, and replace one of the first floor windows with a larger opening to provide a fire escape?
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