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Found 22 results

  1. Hi, I'm new to the forum and introducing myself with our first issue. We are building a two storey extension and at the point of installing sliding doors. The floor isn't fully fitted but at the time of measuring there was the floorboards and steel in place. We are putting in ugh with tiles on top so knew the floor was going to increase by 40mm and we wanted a flush threshold so no runner to step over. Our issue is the gap at the top. We have a gap of approx 45mm between our steel and the trickle vent frame that sits on top of the main door frame. Is this excessive? to me I was expecting much less but window company say they have to allow tolerances for fitting, which I can understand but this much? What is your experience? I know inside can be improved visually as the plasterboard will go over, even though means less glass if the doors were measured correctly, but outside I'm left with the door frame, a 40mm trickle vent frame and then a 45mm cover. See pictures and can add more if needed. Would appreciate your views as they just keep saying tolerances, looks ok, to be expected and my expectations to high??? I would dispute this but am I being too high in expectations??
  2. My untreated oak veneer doors have just arrived, and will need treating. I am looking at either normal Osmo oil, or Polyx Oil - also by Osmo and iirc a harder finish. Sprayable versions do exist, albeit at the usual slightly eyewatering prices . I can live with that for only a few litres. http://www.osmouk.com/retail/product.cfm?product=359 Has anyone tried spraying their doors? Are there any lessons to learn? Cheers
  3. Hi all, I hope someone can help. Recently noticed that the door that was recently fitted by our builder looks like it's bursting out of the wall! The builder said that it's just not finished and that the trim around the edge still needs to go on, but my suspicion is that they've put too much expanding foam into the side of the door frame. The render appears to bow outwards. Any views on this would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Hi guys, We have recently moved house and had all the windows and doors replaced. we used a local company in Chesterfield to supply and fit the uPVC windows. They look absolutely great but we have now decided to add a door knocker to the front door. The company wants to charge us £100+VAT for fitting it. Is this reasonable? Will it void any warranties? Here is the door knocker we have bought: https://door-knockers.co.uk/product/large-brass-arts-and-crafts-doctors-door-knocker/ Thanks in advance for any help.
  5. Hello, Does anyone know if you can have a door (that swings into the room) at the top of a set of stairs without the 400mm? I've attached a drawing Thanks
  6. hi all! I wondered if you guys can help me out and guide me how and what materials to use to block up this doors. Do I need to remove them completely or just block it on using timber and plasterboaerd what about gaps between doors and frame can I just seal it lock doors and put insulation? Any ideas? Thanks ?
  7. Hi - I recently came across this platform and was interested to read some of the content. I have been involved in high performance building fabric solutions for over 30 years and have an inherent interest in low carbon building specifically off-site manufactured building systems together with low energy window and door solutions. I am looking forward to reading further contributions and hopefully providing some useful content. :-)
  8. Any one having issues with Rationel door external ironmongery rusting ? these are under 4 years old ,Rationel won't replace saying ....
  9. Hi there, I'm in the process of a wee project in our house. We are thinking of moving the kitchen into the dining area, removing a non-load bearing wall, dropping windows down to the ground. Getting a bit frazzled by it all....hoping for ideas, support and experience from members of this forum
  10. Came to the point of choosing internal doors. In two rooms on ground floor (hallway to kitchen and hallway to reception room) we definitely need glazed doors to allow flow of natural light. Question: can these be glazed like below (or similar), or once again Park K kicks in and it should all be protected against collision, max.250mm panel width, etc? Don't want BC to come in and tick us off for unsuitable doors (on the other hand, why are they widely on sale?)?
  11. Some advice, please. Due to tight space our family bathroom has to have its door either opening out into the 2x2m landing (not ideal) or of a sliding variety (non-pocket again due to space constraints) which I personally hate. We're considering a folding door - but do they ever extend to a fully flat surface and stay that way? Remember having this in one of houses we rented in USA and they were always *slightly* folding...
  12. Well that tops off a really crap week! Just had the fitters come and fit the last doors ....INCLUDING the specially made aluminium bifold Of course like everything else outside the house ...it is in "chartwell green" ...UPVC doors, Windows, Rafter Feet, Fascia Board ....EVERYTHING Off i went to make them tea and butties and when i came back BOOM...WTF ...I hope thats plastic film i asked! >No my friend ....its the colour I said ...it is NOTHING like chartwell green >I agree my friend So why have i got it > We dont make these doors is aluminium you need to talk boss...is special made to order Yes i remember >and we gave your wife a colour swatch and a form to fill in why, just make them the same as the PVC ones you supplied >because they only do the RAL colour ..so you have to choose close match well she never picked this >ok , you call office, i am only fitter so after an hour.... i got a scan of the order and sure enough she wrote down swatch RAL 6021 which according to the internet is the closest RAL colour to chartwell bloody green but she SWEARS the swatch was nowhere near as dark as this So ...i am sure she cant live with it ....see picture .. They will not refund our £2k as we chose the colour So i guess we have to change the colour ourselves.... Anyone have any ideas? ...only the outside PS ANYONE ELSE WANTING TO FALL INTO THE CHARTWELL GREEN CLUB. REMEMBER THIS ....I HAS SPOKE TO A LOT OF PEOPLE AND CHARTWELL GREEN IS N-O-T A RECOGNISED COLOUR IT DOES N-O-T HAVE AN RGB OR CMYK VALUE ... WHAT THIS MEANS IS THAT ANY COMPANY DOING A SIMILAR GREENY SHADE CAN CALL IT "CHARTWELL GREEN" SO BE AWARE ...IF YOU DONT GET A FINISHED PAINTED/COATED SAMPLE OF WHAT YOU WANT ...DO N-O-T BUY IT
  13. As I wrote elsewhere I spent last weekend fitting laminate floorIng with an acquaintance. They have used rising butt hinges throughout their house, and I was wondering whether anyone has used these in their self-build, and if not why not. I had forgotten how much pfaff they save ... all you do is list the door off, and lean it against the wall. https://www.ironmongeryonline.com/blog/diytips/how-and-when-to-fit-rising-butt-hinges/ Ferdinand
  14. Hi all,I'm just curious to what the community thinks about new trends in the door industry. Does anyone reckon there are any big changes to look out for? I personally think security could be a big change...Cheers,Simon
  15. Evening all. Got a bit of a puzzle regarding door linings. Fitted standard ones today but I've got some to make tomorrow - odd sizes etc. This is where I would value some input. Example: master bedroom wardrobe - the gap is 1150mm so allowing 27mm each side for the handmade lining (total of 54mm), I think the widest doors I can fit are 533mm - so 1066mm + 54mm = 1120 + bit of slack = gap is ok. So if the two doors are 533mm each (are they? or are the doors slightly less than this so they fit into a 533mm lining?) I assume the lining gap can be 1066mm? Or should it be a few more mm than this? I'd like to avoid having to alter the doors if I can. Hope thats clear. Thanks
  16. We have previously talked about seondhand kitchens and French Doors on ebay. I have just been looking for a pair of bi-fold doors for a 1.2m hall closet (probably need to pay £30 for pine bi-folds, and came across quite a lot of interesting deals for general doors. Probably it is all in "go and see first" territory. But lots of potential. So just a heads-up for a place to look - potential savings of hundreds of £££. Example: 5 brand new 1981*838mm Cotrtage Oak doors for £249 Buy It Now. Alloa http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Internal-Oak-cottage-veneer-doors-1981mm-x838-/272843925264?hash=item3f86c3e710:g:q~0AAOSwhIFZoqAI 5 B&Q Shaker Oak Doors (27" x wide) potentially for £20-40 each. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-B-Q-4-PANEL-SHAKER-OAK-VENEER-INTERNAL-WOOD-OAK-DOOR-1981-X-686-27-Inch-/272886337093?hash=item3f894b0e45:g:rmIAAOSw76JZ4PZL Wickes Oaks Veneer will need a sand down - about £20. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wickes-Oak-veneer-Internal-door-1981x762-/272886004685?hash=item3f8945fbcd:g:54cAAOSwn1FZuR2N 8 1920s trad doors just sold for £3 each. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1920-internal-doors-/172915651218?hash=item2842937292:g:AqcAAOSwp0NZ0hkF&autorefresh=true 3 used Cottage Oak 78x30 doors where the auction is currently at £47. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-OAK-VENEER-INTERNAL-DOORS-/282694187985?hash=item41d1e2fbd1:g:J5kAAOSwb0hZ4hiD Cottage Oak door near me that looks liike gong for £20-40. Unfortunately I need 6 and they have to be trimmable by 50mm+. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cottage-style-Oak-Veneer-internal-door-/222678011131?hash=item33d8a4ccfb:g:3LwAAOSwVohZ4eqj
  17. Just reflecting. Yesterday I picked up a set of 1.2m x 2.1m Rosewood finish (I think) French Doors on Ebay for £130. They turn out to be 3 years old, replaced because the lady of the house wants white, and to be significantly good quality. But we brought them back on the car roof no problem. That is without the "french widow" or "pvc" mislisting mistake. That is approx an 85% saving on the cost of a new white one for a nearly new brown one which would be 40% more. I need another set for the other end of my leanto, but these could be a good option for self-build summerhouse as we tend to have access to some reasonable transport kit. There are lots of solid upvc front doors for next-to-nothing. Option for shed? These patio doors - 2.4m wide by 2.1m high in Mahogany with side panels sold for £9.50 at about the same time. I am guessing because it will need a high top van or big trailer to transport, and because the listing was "pvc". Would be good for a summerhouse or to save that 3-5k on bifolds. Ferdinand
  18. Evening - I'm wondering who has experience of flood defence doors please. Until today we were under the impression our barn was to be built up to the correct height to avoid flooding. We are renovating and in keeping with the original building using wooden doors and windows. Now just before we were due to submit the plans the FDA has suggested using Stormguard flood doors in UPVC! I'm totally confused, I can ask my builder and architect tomorrow for guidance but like to think of this venue as my come to place ?. I don't think white UPVC looks right in a barn - no way
  19. Hello All, I suppose I should let you all know who I am. My name is Craig and I've been in the passivhaus industry now for nearly 10 years and built up my knowledge and understanding from friends, colleagues and learning about the methods and different construction methods etc. I've mainly been involved in the supply of windows and doors and Im basically the tech guy at Ecowin/Gaulhofer Windows & Doors in the UK. I'm not here to self promote or claim we are better than everyone else but I'am happy to help anyone with my knowledge and understanding. I recently turned 40 (ouch), I have 3 wonderful kids and I was recently surprised to be informed of an impending fourth. As mentioned, I do work for Ecowin/Gaulhofer and I'm not here to generate sales or push products or claim we are better than anyone else, as a lot of good suppliers/manufacturers exist (a lot of poor ones also). If I can be of any help, please let me know. Thanks Craig
  20. There were a couple of years of planning, while we were talking about generalities , that I tended to overlook the number of German and Austrian products I looked at. And then @Bitpipe wrote that post about Megabad, and someone ( @Stones ?) asked me to do a bit of translation - as did someone else. How nice, I thought, they like German stuff. Me on the other hand, I wanted to buy locally - put money into local businesses and suppliers, use British products. Got to be cheaper. Well, here's a little list; Piling company: uses a 20 year old piling rig (Zeppelin) made in Austria, powered by an 8 liter Magirus Deutz "Best in the business" says the rig driver Doors and Windows: Gaulhofer - Austrian Thresholds : Purenit - Austrian Brickslot drains: ACO - German Build: Durisol: German design, ICF 40 years old, locally produced Bathroom kit: Geberit Washing Machine: Bosch Hand tools and workroom kit: Bosch. I am proud to own a DeWalt nailer though. Build Standard: passivhaus That's most of our budget spent abroad. I suppose some of these companies might have parent companies elsewhere It occurred to me today that I might as well hang the German and Austrian flags on our HERAS. That'd go down well on our lane - really really well.
  21. Hi All. For those of you I haven't had the pleasure of speaking to yet, I'm planning a self build but during the day I'm chief technical at a fairly large manufacturer of windows/doors/glazing based in London/Herts. A few of you have PM'ed me with glazing questions so I thought it best to make a separate thread for sharing any info. If anyone needs help with technical details, specification, getting trade prices, e.t.c. fire away. My way of giving back for all the great construction advice I've already received here.
  22. The trouble with holidays is that they give @MrsRA time to think. And dream. She's set her heart on an internal folding glass door (2.8m by about 3m). I notice that there are any number of suppliers out there. And that makes me wonder how to filter them - other than by price? What to avoid? Any recommendations? Ian
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