Oz07

Usually 5mm added on width for off peg linings. I used to allow 3mm all around when fittings but jam a 2mm packer in now. Can always take more off. I also pack them up a lot now in first floor. Most people tend to have floor coverings approaching 20-25mm off the deck and linings are only 2000mm high. Saves a load coming off bottom of door. @JSHarris are you on "friend"ly terms now !?

Sheiks and watches hey. Bet they don't give out I-watches!

Used it the other week but from a different supplier. Slightly different U Values but more or less the same thing. I had it with Krypton gas and fitted them to existing sash windows. Had to rout out rebates deeper and exchange cast iron weights for lead. It wasn't a bad job in the end but there is better ways to skin this cat. New sashes, smaller moulding and deeper rebate for more standard units (12mm spacer)

Seal them then. Theres product you paint on the brickwork, dries clear

Leave gravel trap between wall and patio, seal brickwork a few courses above dpc couple of options

If you cut the path back a foot away from wall and just plant it up you could of lost height there too. Wouldn't actually need a planter. Be somewhere nice for local dogs to do there business!

I think your kerbs want bringing closer to the edge of your new access. You will gain around 4" in height on the kerb side reducing your fall. Will probably be able to surface ontop of what's there saving you breaking out etc

the window is going to be a cold area. Fair play though you've done a cracking job of the reveals. What's the dpm for don't you think this will affect bonding of the plasterboard to substrate

Think I've seen timber frame without cavity internally before. Plasterboard straight on frame. Think I'd prefer the flexibility a cavity offers though. What size service cavity are you allowing for?

Good point about the battens being nailed through ply. Is this not the same?

Obviously bath and separate shower is what I meant

Bath if family. Ensuites also very popular now. With that floor area you'd want a 4 piece bathroom and ensuite if 3 bed?

Apparently these can keep working well for decades you see them coming out into ditches in fields. I dug thru one in a foundation once. In hindsight would of been good practice to just wedge some 4" pipe between the 2 sides of the trench where land drain was. Would have been better than leaving

You going to reconnect land drain? Was it the old kind with pieces of pipes just butted together?

Hmm not quite tandem or backland because of the access but food for thought thanks. Been sketching up some ideas

used rwa myself before. Ideally you want something that doesn't fit tightly into the space. So if 4" void get 3" or 2" insulation. Suppose it is whatever local suppliers stock

Is there the same resistance from planners to a proposed new dwelling behind the building line as opposed to in front of it? I realise there are other issues to contend with but just wondering what the rule with this is

Why would you build the studs then floor around. You don't seriously expect any builder let alone a volume builder to build with future alterations in mind as strongly as that. Some foresight is acceptable i.e. I accept trimmed out floor openings for potential lift access then joisted and decked is ok. Some LA's ask for this now. But flooring around stud walls on the basis that some punter who's the third owner of the house 20 years later might need to move a room which still means ripping up flooring anyway and altering plumbing and elec?! Crazy. Suspended ceiling tiles on gf next!

I always like quarter of an inch above ffl be that carpet or tiles but sounds like you will have more like 15 after underlay and lam. As said a threshold could bring that down to 7/8mm. If still unhappy are your linings screwed and not decorated yet? Multitool bottom of linings and drop them 10mm

You mean bend as in elbow? So a "slow" bent piece of pipe restricts less?

nice looking drum there

Hold on though this is a new build which is 2 storey. Surely the fact that it is 'room in roof' / attic truss design doesn't negate the need for an MOE on first floor.

On a job at the minute where it is arric trusses and room in roof. There is no MOE on first floor. There are roof windows however these are too high in the roof plane and also too small opening. The bc drawings showed larger windows lower down. Obviously would have complied with moe. The bco is just making the builder put fire doors and frames in. Is this not a bit naughty as a workaround? Alright having a 30min fire door but if fire ain't out after 30mins you're cooked

Beam manufacturers don't like them being lifted from centre. If you crack them in the middle do they still perform as intended with the rebar in? Probably but would need a boffin to confirm!

I've worried about this before with the self compacting Conc being bit more fluid. Never been a prob. As has been said side pressure isn't great