Oz07

If you have a bath could tee off for basin and shower underneath this. Keeps joint somewhat accessible and as said, not often washing hands whilst showering.

Is underfloor pipe more flexible than normal plastic pipe?

Would it really though in this "real life" scenario? How much heat is lost thru the floor of just this room in the house? I'd guess the payback time would be immense at 25mm let alone 12.5

dpm underneath also

Probably a bit too spongy, too much stress on joints i'd of thought. Remove and fit underlay designed for floating timber floors.

B if gas as above. Arent regs tightening up again soon though?

Btw @Nickfromwales how much is your annual gas and leccy? Going on what plumbers charge at the minute I bet you earn it in a week or two! Mines around 5/600, 3 days of your time sir!

I'm not saying I want to use a wood burner and live in a draughty house. I built the house I'm in now last year 150mm cav, double glazing, gsh no wood burning! Was easy to build, bills are low ish and mortgage lenders will readily lend on it when I decide to sell. It's perfectly logical really and just depends how much you value your time. You have a good understanding of the mechanical aspects from your trade so you might enjoy the concept of passive. I wasn't knocking anyone who does it at all but just admitting it's beyond me and my efforts are better spent elsewhere. I think @joe90 is about where I'd want to be next time I build one for myself.

Haha outside tap ✅ someone had to come up with a certain number of ticks! higest spec?! Haven't they heard of solid work surfaces or is a £50 outside tap more of a deal breaker

Not explicitly ( can't spell nessecarily?!). Most BCO would accept a ramped threshold a bit like a hardwood window board. It could be better practically to have a 200mm wide 25mm ramp in oak say than a 15mm hard step. As ever discuss with BCO as it's their interpretation.

What do you suggest just pick the house up and move it then?! i suppose it's an unfortunate thing that gets overlooked or not noticed until you've had a winter on site. if downwards snorkel doesn't work suppose you just have to turn off mvhr, crack a couple of windows a touch and maybe put a small bit of heat into dwelling? this is what keeps me from wanting an all singing and dancing passive level house atm. A lot of issues to be ironed out. Ok if your a scientist like @JSHarris but a lot of it goes over my head!

Can mhvr not be modded to filter smoke out?

Think there is s section for receipts without any details on. You send details of the build and I think they will quickly glance over to make sure you're not taking the Micky. Is security fencing detailed on your planning? Wouldn't imagine it is liable for vat recovery

As an aside I've never found out what fully happened there and I'd probably been a member since 2011.

I think min investment would have to be 1000 maybe 500 at a minimum. As Ferdinand said above though on the whole a mortgage on Dave's existing house at low LTV would probably produce the cheapest borrowing. The debt would be serviced by the rent you receive and maybe even cover it a good number of times depending on amount you raise. Think that is the answer.

I'm not sure you even understand what you are asking. You sit the internal vent on the same course you place your beams. The beams hold the block infill 50mm above this course. Your vent fits in this gap what alternative is there?! What are you asking?!

So are underground fittings ok inside as long as no uv exposure? I've always kept them for underground use only.

Ground level outside

I'd get your building regs drawings done first if you haven't already. For pricing. A lot can be fixed, some will be provisional

If you fix to external skin your only really limited by how good a fixing you can get. 30mm over brickwork 40mm into cav seems to work ok. Last new build I used a different method for better fixing. Fixed a 2x2 treated batten up the inside face of brickwork, cavity closer thickness back from edge and dpc between timber and brick. This enables you to drop it back more but still get decent fixing. Although with a thinner cavity it might be hard to do.

Or do as we are on current job. Let partitioners do all work on price with double plasterboard. Don't bother to spec ply on back layer. let dry liners steam ahead covering everywhere. Later cut out patches everywhere to put support in for everything after skim and mist coat. Proceed to complain job is behind and wonder why finish is crap.

Just buy a box 10/12

Looks good

2 layers of dpm if pir insulation.

Thought there would be a solution! how was your racking done @ProDave? Studs set to imperial or metric boards sourced?