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Oz07

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Everything posted by Oz07

  1. Oz07
    Hi from Leics too
  2. Oz07
    Not yet no. Will it help as in because you will see any subfloor crack?
  3. Oz07
    pocket cut out in border and heating pipe drop in that location also makes me think leak and dried out. No obvious cracks in walls to suggest subsidense.
  4. Oz07
    Anyone like to have a guess why the below parquet floor was damaged. I thought possibly water damage with the associated radiator pipework being close by. Am I missing anything or does this sound likely?
  5. Oz07
    As for widths all 15mm smaller and foamed into place.
  6. Oz07
    Checked in tonight expecting to see one of these threads. Wasn't suprised! I think you have to posses a good understanding of how your system works to control the houses temperature. There's a few in here that have cracked it sure they will be along to help. Bit of experimentation and you should find a way.
  7. Oz07
    Always seems prevelant in spring. Usually goes in newbuilds after 2 or 3 years. Worse if fairy has been used as opposed to plasticiser. Also if rainwater has got in as has been said. Chill it's not permanent!
  8. Oz07
    Am I right in that OP gave builder a previous quote to price against and current builder only quoted against this as instructed. Builders are not qs'. He likely didn't employ one to help him quote because he was only asked to quote specifically against what was supplied. If this is the jist of things then I think a wake up call is needed. The contractor is losing all the cream where he was potentially going to make his money because op failed to do due diligence and get a proper spec. 1500 per m2 for a fully managed project isn't expensive. Sorry for the rant, might be wrong with above assumptions, just wanted to give balance. As to way forward like you say, sale of existing asap and rent. Will feel better with recharged warchest
  9. Oz07
    High flow will reduce. As has been said use manufacturer websites
  10. Oz07
    I haven't seen it but if you send your sizes to a truss company they should be able to quote you
  11. Oz07
    Correct if you have ceiling joists. The question them becomes though why do you even need a steel. Timber ridge board 25mm thick.
  12. Oz07
    A ridge beam won't add any height if you keep ridge at same level. Then you could cut rafters over top of beam then either drop some collar ties below this or expose if you choose an engineered timber product might look nice. Raised tie trusses might not solve the problem if you want big vaulted ceiling area nevermind price. Think ceiling tie can only be 1/3up from bearing wall plate level and still stop wall spread
  13. Oz07
    You'd need a hanger of some kind if going onto side of ridge beam. Weight has to be supported from underside rafts without ceiling joists as ties
  14. Oz07
    So apart from waste water which could be dealt with alternatively what is the big problem here. All my surface water gets sent into the combined sewer because of clay ground. Previously it was allowed to drain into the ground. Which is the worse option and why is this a part of the planning process- as opposed to building control
  15. Oz07
    If accurate timber frame I'd board and skim beforehand. Especially between 2 walls and straight flight.
  16. Oz07
    Can never seem to stop this cracking with drylining. I find moulding makes it worse by putting cracking into 2 edges. I think next time if drylining I would screw 12mm ply to wall but wider than string and along same line. Then screw string to this but packed off with 12mm offcuts and more if nessecary. Then drop board behind string when drylining and screw through above the string into ply\osb. I think the inevitable crack would be much smaller this way as timber will shrink across 9" much more than it would over 32mm
  17. Oz07
    By building the house they're not increasing the rainfall. If the ground was impermeable before then surely building the house would not make things any worse. It may in fact make things better by being able to direct runoff or engineer the ground to have a storage capacity? Tell your mate to stop being a nosy nimby.
  18. Oz07
    Sorry hadn't read thru thread. Mix strength question still applies re blockwork/brickwork
  19. Oz07
    Sounds good. Do you find you ever have too much and gets wasted or not enough and blokes waiting round for delivery? I understand it keeps for a day or so? quantites wise are you just converting dry weights or I suppose you get a feel for how far it goes? What do you do about mix strength? Different for facing bricks and lightweight blocks? Or do they just do a one size fits all job?
  20. Oz07
    Your probably right with the direction you're going. Spec and drawings would probably be enough for quotes. Leave the rest till your weighing up the contractors
  21. Oz07
    What kind of money are we talking here? Anything below 50k I fear you may be a bit o.t.t and as you suspect scare off good contractors. Others may disagree If you do gobthis route outs you may be better off with a bigger firm. You will pay for the privilege but they will be well versed with the documentation side.
  22. Oz07
    Feasibility for what exactly?
  23. Oz07
    Should probably leave a tap slightly open for when it thaws
  24. Oz07
    What about incentives. Let me get you on octopus Jeremy we both get 50 quid!
  25. Oz07
    Site looks dry. Well drained soil?
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