Oz07

The point is that majority of lenders accept pcc. Fair enough if you can justify inflated cost of a warranty by avoiding a cil payment. As @JSHarris questions though I am also sceptical. I would think there are other ways to prove self build than taking out a product which is specifically designed to aid selling the property! I've always gone pcc for the fact I'd be prepared to tell any future buyer to switch lenders. Others may not be so assertive?

Hopefully job isn't under too much pressure. Seen many a job get bodged and rushed at the end due to tight deadlines. Just think of it as an adventure you will be laughing about it next christmas!

They will usually supply some rigid duct. As for getting in touch with them it requires some serious googling

Get spec from them beforehand and they should be fine. Nowt worse than putting a unperforated duct in and gas board turning up and asking for perforated! Ask me how I know. Also diameter of duct is important

Can we stop perpetuating the myth that you NEED a warranty. I've got a CML list on my computer of all the different lenders requirements. I would estimate 80% accept Professional Consultants Cert, some wanting this also to be supervised by RIBA architect. The remaining want warranties but mostly LABC or NHBC. The lenders which will accept warranties by companies other than these are surprisingly few and therefore makes you question the value of getting a warranty over the usually cheaper PCC if not using the 'big two'!

What chance do you think there is of a local authority letting you alter the roofline for an NMA? The ride height would stay the same and so would the eaves. It's just the property is designed as dutch/barn hip roof and I would want to lift the eaves of the 'hipped' roof section. I know theres a lot of variables but would this be a straight no or is there a chance?

angular gravel for the finished surface. Binds.

It will dry from inside out once you get structure sealed and heat in there. Atleast that's how I understand it. Get copings on Windows in then start putting some heat into it

I'd check the dims before doing this. Realistically looks to be 1 or 2 metres away. If 2 metres with the 45degree rule probably is ok

There are ways of getting round this becoming/being a public sewer. Firstly as said above see if you have the fall for gravity system. You will need to check the road firstly then where your parents pipework joins the existing cesspit. Realistically you will get away with 12.5mm per metre on nice straight run like this. At 60m from the road your invert will be between 900-1200mm deep allowing for a bit of pipe cover. That would be if the land were flat. Adjust accordingly. I would be suprised if the sewer in the road was shallower than this. Secondly i I think you will get away with running both properties through one pipe on your own land, so long as your keeping building control happy. I don't think it has to be adoptable because it didn't exist before as a public sewer and it's not 100% that it will be adopted. If you do encounter any trouble with this then just lay 2 pipes and join off (adoptable) ic before road

got piece about a metre long here, its oak but blockboard though. Also in the Midlands!

Yeh just put 2 more course on

I see, sure someone here will be able to come up with a solution!

Yes now on that sketch imagine a vented floorspace inside. Just wouldn't perform as well with cold air and cold bridge of conc beams. If you brought eps up inside and also used something like hanson jet floor that would seem to get rid of the bridges.

Why, does the dpc go under the eps then? Also is this method more successful with ground bearing Slab as inside face of internal blockwork will also be at low temp in vented floor? Suppose eps could also be placed against this face for belt and braces?

Think foamglass type blocks are the accepted workaround here? Also look into using eps insulation instead of lean mix Conc in your cavity below ground. Will resist compression and reduce cold bridge. Cut a champher on top to direct water outwards. Did @joe90 do this?

If going for mbc style twin wall wouldn't it be far more sensible to have external insulation on basement? Aren't you just introducing a cold bridge and/or painful detail otherwise?

Think you'd be daft not to build a basement in London. If there are investors having basements dug and built below existing properties then that shows you how valuable space is! Sq footage is king

Wall looks neater but have to be 10mm with blob and dob on masonry wall? is 15 better?

Yeh sorry not really been paying attention. Cost of manifolds doesn't look cheap but I suppose first fix is quicker and also peace of mind re hidden joints. Would you keep all heating pipework in 15 as the reducers in 10mm could clog up in future or does this not matter as the joints are on show? I've seen manifolds which have seperate Elec controls. Would be good where you have 2 stats in house. I.e. Upstairs downstairs. Presume 10mm fine for low usage potable water?

Sorry to Hijack. @Nickfromwales seeing as you've got plenty of time to spare tell me if this makes sense. Does anyone plumb radiators in off a manifold? Doesn't seem to common on 'bog standard' new installs but I was thinking could get rid of all hidden joints. Also with water supplies why can same not be done for these? This way plaggy pipe uninterrupted in ceiling voids and all joints accessible.

I looked to replace ours earlier this week. As I was browsing I read a BBC article that many new fridges aren't upto a good fire safety standard. Plastic backs worse than metal backs etc. At this point I gave up and decided to wait till the old one breaks. Seems the fire safety regs need an upgrade

I wish. Not far from though. 1min if you jump a fence 10min to walk around

4" here too. Nice little walk over the back this morning

Do epcs allow for this? I'm guessing not? Seems a good reason to choose between. However on trad strip founds if you go 1.5m deep then you have to suspend floors