Oz07

I thought porous tarmac ontop of type 1 was no no? You want no dust. Sorry for deviating just thought if you were topping up you could change the stone order

From my experience the thinner liquid screed performed better in terms of resisting cracking than the thicker concrete. I don't know the science behind it thought perhaps someone else does? Flexibility perhaps?

Was suprised at just how strong these screeds are. The flow is superb aswell. I usually use agilia which is good no nonsense stuff however susceptible to cracking if movement joints not in asap. Lafarge do one of these thin screeds when I worked on a job with it was tuff stuff. Only 50mm thick you'd think it would crack everywhere but very strong.

Didn't work - appendix worked - having it removed! 17 been crap in health and business but few irons in the fire already for next year and feeling good.

Land liability, the world truly has gone mad! enjoying watching vikings and observing a more survival of the fittest approach to civilisation!

Not ideal for new builds but perfect for older tenanted properties as @Ferdinand says

Is it not designed to push air out of trickle vents?

Is the floor a click or glue system? Presume it's floating of underlay been mentioned

Apparently new cars as 2017 been a slow year - sorry that doesn't help your cause! Howdens October sale, but like you say not really sure it's much cheaper

I literally have the CML extract on my computer listing the lenders who accept PCC. Who told you most lenders don't accept it? Did you do any of your own research or just accept that persons word for it? Sold a couple of new with PCC, both mortgaged, both times wasn't an issue.

Unreal that isn't it!

Does make it harder to paint afterwards though! @jamiehamy started reading your blog earlier quite interesting project!

The point is that majority of lenders accept pcc. Fair enough if you can justify inflated cost of a warranty by avoiding a cil payment. As @JSHarris questions though I am also sceptical. I would think there are other ways to prove self build than taking out a product which is specifically designed to aid selling the property! I've always gone pcc for the fact I'd be prepared to tell any future buyer to switch lenders. Others may not be so assertive?

Hopefully job isn't under too much pressure. Seen many a job get bodged and rushed at the end due to tight deadlines. Just think of it as an adventure you will be laughing about it next christmas!

They will usually supply some rigid duct. As for getting in touch with them it requires some serious googling

Get spec from them beforehand and they should be fine. Nowt worse than putting a unperforated duct in and gas board turning up and asking for perforated! Ask me how I know. Also diameter of duct is important

Can we stop perpetuating the myth that you NEED a warranty. I've got a CML list on my computer of all the different lenders requirements. I would estimate 80% accept Professional Consultants Cert, some wanting this also to be supervised by RIBA architect. The remaining want warranties but mostly LABC or NHBC. The lenders which will accept warranties by companies other than these are surprisingly few and therefore makes you question the value of getting a warranty over the usually cheaper PCC if not using the 'big two'!

What chance do you think there is of a local authority letting you alter the roofline for an NMA? The ride height would stay the same and so would the eaves. It's just the property is designed as dutch/barn hip roof and I would want to lift the eaves of the 'hipped' roof section. I know theres a lot of variables but would this be a straight no or is there a chance?

angular gravel for the finished surface. Binds.

It will dry from inside out once you get structure sealed and heat in there. Atleast that's how I understand it. Get copings on Windows in then start putting some heat into it

I'd check the dims before doing this. Realistically looks to be 1 or 2 metres away. If 2 metres with the 45degree rule probably is ok

There are ways of getting round this becoming/being a public sewer. Firstly as said above see if you have the fall for gravity system. You will need to check the road firstly then where your parents pipework joins the existing cesspit. Realistically you will get away with 12.5mm per metre on nice straight run like this. At 60m from the road your invert will be between 900-1200mm deep allowing for a bit of pipe cover. That would be if the land were flat. Adjust accordingly. I would be suprised if the sewer in the road was shallower than this. Secondly i I think you will get away with running both properties through one pipe on your own land, so long as your keeping building control happy. I don't think it has to be adoptable because it didn't exist before as a public sewer and it's not 100% that it will be adopted. If you do encounter any trouble with this then just lay 2 pipes and join off (adoptable) ic before road

got piece about a metre long here, its oak but blockboard though. Also in the Midlands!

Yeh just put 2 more course on

I see, sure someone here will be able to come up with a solution!