dnoble

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About dnoble

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  1. dnoble

    Green roof

    That's a thought. there would still need to be some kind of barrier to stop the coarse stone falling off into the gutter or to support the fabric though wouldn't there? Unless I'm misunderstanding, pic might make it clearer.
  2. dnoble

    Green roof

    I'm doing a DIY one on a 15% pitched 50m2 roof. I've built an OSB floating roof on battens over the original one (which apparently needed ventilation above its roof membrane) and covered this with a massive EPDM membrane. Planning to use Cellweb type stuff to retain the growing medium, which will will be pearlite or similar and compost. I've no intention of doing lots of maintainance so to going to seed it with sedums etc and let natural selection take over. Something will grow there and it'll probably be green some of the time! Some of the matt forming sea cliff campion type plants might be worth a try too. And whatever blows in on the wind and likes it there. The SE has okayed it in weight terms. Main issue to overcome is designing a border at the lower end which retains the green stuff whilst allowing drainage through into the gutter below. And doesn't rot/rust. Some kind of ACO drain cover might work. Any other ideas on what to use for this welcome?
  3. dnoble

    400W wind turbine

    OK. well that's useful to know. Now I think about it I do recall reading somewhere they needed to be >10m above roof level to work which wouldn't be feasible
  4. dnoble

    400W wind turbine

    Is it worth (whilst I have the scaffolding up) installing a small eg wind turbine. I have a fairly exposed windy gable with a massive glulam beam end I could attach it to. I wondered if, in the midst of winter when the PV panels aren't doing much and it is pretty windy this would provide a useful additional extra power source. Am building an MBC passive house and so energy requirements will hopefully be low. Is this worthwhile and what are the logistics of incorporating it with the solar PV and the mains power supply?
  5. dnoble

    early mounting solar PV

    Many thanks for this Jeremy and Dave. I had an idea there was a risk but useful to have practical advice. The roof gets a bit of dappled shade in a portion from a nearby Ash tree, especially away from midsummer when the sun's lower. I see people have pre-empted my next question which was; What are peoples thoughts on micro inverter fitted panels. Is it worth the extra cost (or should I just coppice the tree!) Points about having to replace micro-inverters are worth thinking about (how would you know one had stopped working anyway; is there a way of monitoring the output of individual panels?)
  6. Hello all. Planning to have 4-6KW solar PV on my new build. Not going to go for the FIT since it's now so paltry. Thinking about DIY fitting the solar panels to the roof of my new build while the scaffolding's up, Can get 4kw worth for <2K it seems. The house has not yet had first fix, and in early stages so I was thinking about getting inverter and sorting connection later (probably next year) I'm not an electrician and would like to know if it's feasible/safe to do this and leave them on the roof, presumably connected together in series with a cable into the house to connect at a later date?
  7. Having some conflicting advice on what to use round windows from window supplier and carpenter. Rationel triple glazed alu-clad timber frames going into an MBC timber frame SIPS house. Should I get expanding tape to fill the gap (22mm tot, or 11mm each side hopefully if everyone's measured correctly), or just use sealant and expanding foam in from the back (cheaper and possibly simpler to do, especially on the big windows). Also do I need a DPM under the base of the window as well as the folded in breather membrane? Any advice appreciated Dan
  8. dnoble

    Board-on-board or "hit and miss" cladding

    Thanks for the replies I'm cladding it with larch from a local sawmill just over the bridge in south wales. I was surprised to discover that hit + miss boarding was about half the cost of milled shiplap, and quite a lot less than plain square or Waney Edge boards. thanks for the info about grain orientation. Hadn't realised it also applied to the lower layer, but this makes sense The boards are 150mm for the lower and 100mm for the upper layer with a 25mm overlap on each side (150mm boards being 50m apart) It'll be interesting to see if I can ascertain the curve of the grain in pieces this small. Sounds as if counter battening with roofing battens is the way forward, and you're right they are pretty cheap. what's the difference between the blue and red ones. I'm assuming it's for boy and girl roofers?
  9. dnoble

    Board-on-board or "hit and miss" cladding

    Hi Miek Thanks for this advice. What's the trick to making sure they "cup" inwards. Presumably it's to do with the orientation of the grain? The advice from the cladding site is that counter battens not needed with board on board (though it does suggest using angled battens). Is the feeling here that I'll need to counter batten if using normal square battens? It's going to be a fairly sheltered site with trees and overhangs providing extra rain screening etc. (I want to keep things simple/cheap if possible)
  10. dnoble

    Board-on-board or "hit and miss" cladding

    Thanks Those are both good points. Sarking board cut down middle is a good idea (though extra work as I'll need loads, plus they'll need treating on cut edge)
  11. I'm thinking of doing this. Usually with vertical cladding one needs vertical counter battens. This site suggests you don't for board-onboard because there's a void at the front. BUT the battens need to be angled forwards. My question is, where can I get cheap treated battens which have a 15deg angle machined in or would I have to get them specially made (which will probably negate the benefit of not needing vertical counter battens) https://www.tdca.org.uk/timber-cladding/cladding-design-detail/vertical-cladding-new-buildings/
  12. dnoble

    Ecology mortgage phased money timing

    In theory I think it's advance though not sure I understand the difference... This mortgage seems to depend on what you have built being valued at a level where they will lend you 75% of it's current unfinished value. I think they will release some money when the foundation is done. It's just ideally I need this as the foundation is done. Presumably they'll release more when the Frame is delivered and up, though the agreement with the frame company is that I will pay them a Lump on delivery. I'm going to have to wait for another valuation and report from surveyor. I hadn't really clocked this where I signed everything which I shall have to chalk up to experience I suppose..
  13. I have a self build mortgage with Ecology. What I hadn't realised is that release of each phased lump of money is dependent on a surveyor coming and looking at the site and confirming that after whatever has been done, the current increased value of the build means they can release more money. This seems a bit peverse, as often you need to have spent the money to achieve the work which will increase the value and release the money! Specifically with a passive timber frame house, much work is off site there is nothing to see until they deliver and erect it.. But the frame builders (MBC) want a proportion of the money before, and on delivery. Similarly Ineed to pay half the windows + doors cost; a big lump, but said windows are not on site to be seen yet.. Has anyone else encountered this rather bizarre catch22 situation? Any advice for negotiating it. Ecology seem to just read the rules they have written down Dan
  14. dnoble

    Soil Pipe through the wall

    Thanks Nick. bearing in mind it's a passive house and the pipe will form a thermal bridge I thought there might be some need to do this (I'll check with the frame builder)
  15. dnoble

    Soil Pipe through the wall

    Thanks for the replies. Mike Sharp; there's nowhere in the slab nearer which would avoid the problem unfortunately. by protect and insulate it, I suppose boxing it in and wrapping in something insulating would achieve this?