dnoble

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About dnoble

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  1. We are currently in our second winter in the house. MBC passive house with MVHR Two of the triple glazed casement windows appear to have significant condensation problems. One is in a bathroom (with good air extraction) and the other in a home office. I've just written to Rationel aftersales support but after previous problem with a faulty door locking mechanism, I'm expecting an initial brushoff. Do folks feel this suggests a particular failing in the window?
  2. I opted to have the UFH pipes installed pre slab pour as an insurance though I had hoped after speaking with Jeremy that I might not need it. It was only 1700 quid extra but very much more expensive to retrofit so I'm glad I didn't scrimp then! have you any idea how much electricity you’re using compared to what phpp predicted? I didn't do a PHPP prediction and the house isn't certified. It should cost about £2.10 per night for the winter months with economy electric if that's any help (7 hours of 10p/kwh with a 3kwh heater) This seems like a parsimonious solution and cost well under a grand. Compared to the 10-15K quotes I was getting install an ASHP (I know cheaper if self installed which I may do one day when they're cheaper and I have more time) it would take a very long time to payback the outlay. Glad I sought the wisdom of this forum! Thanks for all these useful points TerryE. I'm not entirely sure of the point of lowering the flow rate?It isn't really noisy when running. Getting a spare Willis pump really good idea in anticipation. Any recommendations on water softeners? Dan
  3. MBC sorted the sand IIRC but told me what to put down beneath it. Some kind of compacted crushed stone I think (it was 3 years ago now!!) Are you laying the EPS yourself? If not wouldn’t the EPS laying people be the ones to ask?
  4. Thanks for input everyone. I’ve got it up and running with a Willis heater off amazon (labelled “Tesla” rather unexpectedly) and a cheap mechanical timer. The manifold + pump was the main outlay around £400. It took about 3 days continuous running the get the slab up from 18 to 25deg. Now I’m running it only from 12.30 at night till 7.30am when I get cheapo electric. The floor doesn’t feel “warm” but it no longer sucks the heat from your body when you walk on it and everyone’s stopped moaning. The house feels remarkable warmer! Temp is hanging around 20deg. Here’s a pic. All the gubbins is under the counter in the utility room next to the Sunamp
  5. Thanks for the quick replies. I thought so. The obvious next questions is how big. TonyT you say 1 litre per kW heat (which would be 3l with a 3kW willis pump?) I'd assumed you'd calculate it from the volume of water in the system (though I'd need to work out the length of pipe first!) It's about 100m2 of standard-spaced 16mm per pipe. The
  6. I recently posted about running my UFH using a Willis heater. Plumber on board with this in theory but hasn't encountered before. We were wondering if it'll need an small expansion vessel? Shopping list so far is; Manifold Grunfos Pump Willis Heater Timer.
  7. Hi Will. Thanks for this, looks important. Thanks too, Terry. Is this because there’s a risk of overheating or damaging the slab? I assumed this will be a slow, non-reactive system. The house is fairy constant temp between 15-20deg and I was hoping that just warming the slab for a few hours overnight would bring up the background temp by a few degrees. I don’t have any programming skills and want to keep everything as simple/idiot proof as possible. I am also wondering if, using a Willis heater (obv element switched off) would there still be a way of cooling the slab in summer by circulation cold water as someone mentioned previously in this thread?
  8. Thanks for this. I think I might go for this as a short term plan. I already have E7 leccy which tops up the Sunamp. I have a mate who’s a qualified electrician and plumber. Currently there are just a dozen UFH pipes sticking out of the slab. As well as the Willis pump and a suitable manifold, what else would I need to set it all up? I think just a timer so it comes on for 6 hours overnight would be as much control/monitoring I’d need.
  9. I saw that Joe and wasn't sure what it meant, thanks for clarifying. Would you stll need a buffer tank or something? presumably you cant; just connect the mains to UFH pipes via a Willis heater?
  10. Can you explain this, will it be much more expensive to install through a registered RHI company than DIY it? If non RHI could a normally competent plumber (or even a minimally competent non-plumber-me) manage it?
  11. There’s no heating system as it’s a passive house. I’m exploring the best way of supplementary heating via the UFH pipes I got installed as an insurance
  12. This is really useful advice and leads to more questions. What size volume would the buffer tank need to be? I think there'd be room next to the UFH pipe manifold, There's a 1.5m wide under counter space potentially. Can you recommend a small ASHP + tank? DanF, How would the cooling in summer work? Do you send cold water round the UFH pipes or is it a direct function of the ASHP?
  13. We're in our second winter in an MBC timber frame house. 5 bed, 4 kids. 240m2 approx It has UFH pipes installed but I experimentally haven't connected them up. I think it's OK (with thermal longjohns etc ), but some of the less robust members of my house feel we need "proper" heating. It was 15 degrees inside this am (-2 outside overnight). We do have a plug-in panel heater which will warm a single room quickly. We have a 9kW Sunamp unit which supplies hot water. This is mainly charged by solar PV. Question; Should we connect UFH to the Sunamp? Obv this will greatly increase drain on it and it'll need more topping up from the grid. Is it worth getting an ASHP? I have left penetrations through the wall for one. If so would this heat the Sunamp more efficiently than grid, or can it directly connect to the UFH? Or would it be most expedient just to get a couple of extra panel heaters on smart timers? I'm reluctant to spend many Ks and get my head round yet more technology for the sake of a few degrees or saving a few quid. Is another big mental and financial outlay worthwhile (sorry for a rather subjective question) Dan
  14. I have rung council several times (>4) and after much "let me just put you on hold while I check with a colleague" I get fobbed off and told to contact the VOA. Ive sent an email CC'd to everyone I can think of who might be vaguely connected with this and things seems to be moving now....
  15. Hmmn. I've called building control (who have issued a completion certificate) several times and they don't seem to know about this