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About dnoble

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  1. dnoble

    Board-on-board or "hit and miss" cladding

    Thanks for the replies I'm cladding it with larch from a local sawmill just over the bridge in south wales. I was surprised to discover that hit + miss boarding was about half the cost of milled shiplap, and quite a lot less than plain square or Waney Edge boards. thanks for the info about grain orientation. Hadn't realised it also applied to the lower layer, but this makes sense The boards are 150mm for the lower and 100mm for the upper layer with a 25mm overlap on each side (150mm boards being 50m apart) It'll be interesting to see if I can ascertain the curve of the grain in pieces this small. Sounds as if counter battening with roofing battens is the way forward, and you're right they are pretty cheap. what's the difference between the blue and red ones. I'm assuming it's for boy and girl roofers?
  2. dnoble

    Board-on-board or "hit and miss" cladding

    Hi Miek Thanks for this advice. What's the trick to making sure they "cup" inwards. Presumably it's to do with the orientation of the grain? The advice from the cladding site is that counter battens not needed with board on board (though it does suggest using angled battens). Is the feeling here that I'll need to counter batten if using normal square battens? It's going to be a fairly sheltered site with trees and overhangs providing extra rain screening etc. (I want to keep things simple/cheap if possible)
  3. dnoble

    Board-on-board or "hit and miss" cladding

    Thanks Those are both good points. Sarking board cut down middle is a good idea (though extra work as I'll need loads, plus they'll need treating on cut edge)
  4. I'm thinking of doing this. Usually with vertical cladding one needs vertical counter battens. This site suggests you don't for board-onboard because there's a void at the front. BUT the battens need to be angled forwards. My question is, where can I get cheap treated battens which have a 15deg angle machined in or would I have to get them specially made (which will probably negate the benefit of not needing vertical counter battens) https://www.tdca.org.uk/timber-cladding/cladding-design-detail/vertical-cladding-new-buildings/
  5. dnoble

    Ecology mortgage phased money timing

    In theory I think it's advance though not sure I understand the difference... This mortgage seems to depend on what you have built being valued at a level where they will lend you 75% of it's current unfinished value. I think they will release some money when the foundation is done. It's just ideally I need this as the foundation is done. Presumably they'll release more when the Frame is delivered and up, though the agreement with the frame company is that I will pay them a Lump on delivery. I'm going to have to wait for another valuation and report from surveyor. I hadn't really clocked this where I signed everything which I shall have to chalk up to experience I suppose..
  6. I have a self build mortgage with Ecology. What I hadn't realised is that release of each phased lump of money is dependent on a surveyor coming and looking at the site and confirming that after whatever has been done, the current increased value of the build means they can release more money. This seems a bit peverse, as often you need to have spent the money to achieve the work which will increase the value and release the money! Specifically with a passive timber frame house, much work is off site there is nothing to see until they deliver and erect it.. But the frame builders (MBC) want a proportion of the money before, and on delivery. Similarly Ineed to pay half the windows + doors cost; a big lump, but said windows are not on site to be seen yet.. Has anyone else encountered this rather bizarre catch22 situation? Any advice for negotiating it. Ecology seem to just read the rules they have written down Dan
  7. dnoble

    Soil Pipe through the wall

    Thanks Nick. bearing in mind it's a passive house and the pipe will form a thermal bridge I thought there might be some need to do this (I'll check with the frame builder)
  8. dnoble

    Soil Pipe through the wall

    Thanks for the replies. Mike Sharp; there's nowhere in the slab nearer which would avoid the problem unfortunately. by protect and insulate it, I suppose boxing it in and wrapping in something insulating would achieve this?
  9. We're just finalising the insulated foundation for our MBC timber frame house. because of an oversight about levels etc it looks like the ground floor level may be too low to get enough drop to connect to the main drain in the road. are there any reasons (other than aesthetic) eg from thermal envelope or building regs POV why we can take the pipe straight out through the wall at "toilet level" to gain an extra 300mm? Any other smart solutions would be welcome (though I'm not keen on using pumps or putting in a treatment plant) many thanks Dan
  10. dnoble

    Which building inspector

    Thanks Curlewhouse, that sounds like good advice. Presumably if I went with the Council/LA one I wouldn't get to choose who was allocated?
  11. I had a surveyor come round yesterday to look at the plot for the self build mortgage folk. He asked who the building inspector would be and mentioned I could use the council one or employ a private company (which he implied might be more flexible/pragmatic etc) I hadn't realised this was a possibility. Are there benefits of one over the other. Is there usually a significant cost difference here?
  12. dnoble

    Perenial Stream existance

    Thats a clever workaround. I've spoken to the environment and they agree in principal it should be fine but agree that the stream doesn't officially exist. They also didn't know how or what the process is for getting it verified.
  13. dnoble

    Perenial Stream existance

    Hi Jeremy. I agree I'll need to incorporate some kind of attenuation. Specifically though I need to know if allowed to use this stream which doesnt oficially seem to exist for the overflow (I'd like to as would avoid me having to sent ot otherwise to main sewer)
  14. Currently formulating a plan to deal with rainwater from 160m2 roof. Heavy clay means soakaway probably not an option and PO seems to acknowledge this so maybe able to negotiate connection to main drain.(Also having some attenuatiuon in the form of green roof and rainwater harvesting) There is a intermittant steam in the garden that only runs after rain and disappears into the ground 10m or so away (still in the middle of my land) This stream isn't documented on any plans or surveys. I wonder if I could send my roof water into this (it probably goes there any way as land house will sit on drains into it.) My concern is whether anyone will reconise this stream as an entity. Is there a way of documenting it? Dan
  15. dnoble

    Who marks out the site?

    OK maybe I could do it myself then? There doesnt seem to be any objective siting in the plans other than the distances from neighbours properties, so I suppose as long as I respect these, keep it the right size and the angles all square, maybe it's more straightforward than I thought?