dnoble

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About dnoble

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  1. dnoble

    Sunamp installation

    Ive emailed Sunamp about this but they haven't got back to me. I'm planning to install a 5-10Kw Sunamp (haven't decided yet) for Hot water heating, Currently doing first fix electrics and plumbing. Electrician and plumber haven't encountered this product and want to know what needs to be in place. What supply does the Sunamp need electrically. Does it have a coil like an induction heater? Does it plug in, does it need a fuse? Re water dos it just need a mains pressure cold in and hot out? I'm sure Sunamp will let ne know all this but electrician's here today so would be useful to know now!
  2. dnoble

    roofing glare cock up

    Thanks Ferdinand. I'm also fond of Birch particulary. There may be a issue with lack of leaves s enabling glare in the winter. . I do have a directive to plant several replacement trees anyway to replace a couple of elderly apples I had to remove. What's the appropriate website you mention where I could further investigate the heights, angles etc? It may be the winter sun then is low enough not to peep over onto the offending roof side.
  3. dnoble

    roofing glare cock up

    Hello Jeremy. That's interesting as one option I was considering was to cover this roof in solar panels(though it's NW facing) on the assumption they absorb most of the light rather than refect it! What trees did you plant out of interest? In terms of applying for retrospective change aren't I on a bit of a sticky wicket if there's already a complaint in and I didn't follow procedure correctly?
  4. dnoble

    roofing glare cock up

    Thanks Recoveringacademic. That's slightly reassuring. I suppose I'd like to know sooner rather than later if I'm going to have to remove it. I have scaffolding up costing 500 a month as it's overdue and if that's the likely outcome it'd be cheaper to crack on and change it now.
  5. I am building a timber framed passive house. I initially planned to put black fibre cement roofing on it (architect's suggestion as a low cost material) I couldn't find a contractor to do this within the time-frame so I decided to use matt black plastisol coated box profile steel which looks very similar and is widely used in other counties (Shetland, Iceland Australia etc)and I could install it myself. I did contact to planning officer who said as long the energy efficiency wasn't impaired this should be fine. I due to inexperience really, I assumed this meant I could retrospectively apply for a change, whereas I was supposed to re-apply with the new material and get it discharged. What's happened since installing them is that a neighbour (who objected to the house-build initially and is vehemently opposed to it) is complaining that there is glare from the sheets in bright sun into his garden. To be fair there is some glare at certain times of the day. He knows this is not the material I got permission for. I'm really worried the PO is going to make me tear it all off and install the original sheets which will be very expensive in terms of labour, materials, scaffolding, removing + reinstalling solar panels etc. I am in negotiations with the PO now about this. Can anyone advise on 1) Data about weathering and reduced shininess of black plastisol (can't find much online and manufacturing company couldn't help) 2) A coating that might reduce glare (am looking into bitumen roof paint, hammerite etc) 2) Planning law around neighbour's right not to have glare I am going to plant screening trees but these will take a few years to block the view. Many thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'm feeling pretty stressed about this after a run in with angry neighbour this morning!
  6. dnoble

    Soil stack passive house

    There's also something about negative pressure from flushing etc potentially disrupting the water in the U bends that prevents gas/smell entering the house from the drainage system
  7. dnoble

    Soil stack passive house

    Thanks for all this useful information. That's a good solution, Peter, so there's no particular reason the AAV needs to be up in the loft space, it just be hidden behind a false wall (but obviously above soil pipe level), then?
  8. dnoble

    Soil stack passive house

    That's brilliant, Jeremy I was hoping to do something similar. Hadn't realised it also needed external ventilation too so thanks for that additional
  9. I realise I should of though about this earlier but are there any passive house implications around soil stacks? Aesthetically an internally vented one in the loft with an AAV would be preferable. Is this allowable/advisable in a passive house. Intuitively it would seem to be less likely to cause heat loss.
  10. dnoble

    Ducting for ashp

    Thanks for this Jeremy. That sounds ingenious, though I wouldn't describe making a special drill as simple compared to pre-installing them! Good to know it's do-able though. The positioning of the pipes is an important point, though. Presumably using some flexible pipe between the unit and the duct-through-the-wall would provide some flexibility around this? I like the wet bag in the pipe idea too..
  11. dnoble

    Ducting for ashp

    Can I bump this topic please? I have an MBC timberframe up and am frantically arranging first fix and window installation before insulation is blown in. I'm planning to use a sunamp product for hot water. I may or may not charge this with an ASHP, and may or may not connect an output from it to UFH (pipes installed) Want to see how house performs first. Have 6kw Solar PV to install (though obv these won't provide much energy in winter) I may not end up buying an ASHP but it's make sense to install a duct before the insulation goes in, cladding goes on etc just in case. As I haven't bought one, I dont know what size hole to make. Are they fairly standard? Is there just one duct or an inlet and outlet. Would Jack's suggestion above of 50mm pipe suit most models? (could presumably temporarily fill it with some insulation if I don't use it) Many thanks in advance Dan
  12. dnoble

    Green roof

    That's a thought. there would still need to be some kind of barrier to stop the coarse stone falling off into the gutter or to support the fabric though wouldn't there? Unless I'm misunderstanding, pic might make it clearer.
  13. dnoble

    Green roof

    I'm doing a DIY one on a 15% pitched 50m2 roof. I've built an OSB floating roof on battens over the original one (which apparently needed ventilation above its roof membrane) and covered this with a massive EPDM membrane. Planning to use Cellweb type stuff to retain the growing medium, which will will be pearlite or similar and compost. I've no intention of doing lots of maintainance so to going to seed it with sedums etc and let natural selection take over. Something will grow there and it'll probably be green some of the time! Some of the matt forming sea cliff campion type plants might be worth a try too. And whatever blows in on the wind and likes it there. The SE has okayed it in weight terms. Main issue to overcome is designing a border at the lower end which retains the green stuff whilst allowing drainage through into the gutter below. And doesn't rot/rust. Some kind of ACO drain cover might work. Any other ideas on what to use for this welcome?
  14. dnoble

    400W wind turbine

    OK. well that's useful to know. Now I think about it I do recall reading somewhere they needed to be >10m above roof level to work which wouldn't be feasible
  15. dnoble

    400W wind turbine

    Is it worth (whilst I have the scaffolding up) installing a small eg wind turbine. I have a fairly exposed windy gable with a massive glulam beam end I could attach it to. I wondered if, in the midst of winter when the PV panels aren't doing much and it is pretty windy this would provide a useful additional extra power source. Am building an MBC passive house and so energy requirements will hopefully be low. Is this worthwhile and what are the logistics of incorporating it with the solar PV and the mains power supply?