Oz07

Think I've seen timber frame without cavity internally before. Plasterboard straight on frame. Think I'd prefer the flexibility a cavity offers though. What size service cavity are you allowing for?

Good point about the battens being nailed through ply. Is this not the same?

Obviously bath and separate shower is what I meant

Bath if family. Ensuites also very popular now. With that floor area you'd want a 4 piece bathroom and ensuite if 3 bed?

Apparently these can keep working well for decades you see them coming out into ditches in fields. I dug thru one in a foundation once. In hindsight would of been good practice to just wedge some 4" pipe between the 2 sides of the trench where land drain was. Would have been better than leaving

You going to reconnect land drain? Was it the old kind with pieces of pipes just butted together?

Hmm not quite tandem or backland because of the access but food for thought thanks. Been sketching up some ideas

used rwa myself before. Ideally you want something that doesn't fit tightly into the space. So if 4" void get 3" or 2" insulation. Suppose it is whatever local suppliers stock

Is there the same resistance from planners to a proposed new dwelling behind the building line as opposed to in front of it? I realise there are other issues to contend with but just wondering what the rule with this is

Why would you build the studs then floor around. You don't seriously expect any builder let alone a volume builder to build with future alterations in mind as strongly as that. Some foresight is acceptable i.e. I accept trimmed out floor openings for potential lift access then joisted and decked is ok. Some LA's ask for this now. But flooring around stud walls on the basis that some punter who's the third owner of the house 20 years later might need to move a room which still means ripping up flooring anyway and altering plumbing and elec?! Crazy. Suspended ceiling tiles on gf next!

I always like quarter of an inch above ffl be that carpet or tiles but sounds like you will have more like 15 after underlay and lam. As said a threshold could bring that down to 7/8mm. If still unhappy are your linings screwed and not decorated yet? Multitool bottom of linings and drop them 10mm

You mean bend as in elbow? So a "slow" bent piece of pipe restricts less?

nice looking drum there

Hold on though this is a new build which is 2 storey. Surely the fact that it is 'room in roof' / attic truss design doesn't negate the need for an MOE on first floor.

On a job at the minute where it is arric trusses and room in roof. There is no MOE on first floor. There are roof windows however these are too high in the roof plane and also too small opening. The bc drawings showed larger windows lower down. Obviously would have complied with moe. The bco is just making the builder put fire doors and frames in. Is this not a bit naughty as a workaround? Alright having a 30min fire door but if fire ain't out after 30mins you're cooked

Beam manufacturers don't like them being lifted from centre. If you crack them in the middle do they still perform as intended with the rebar in? Probably but would need a boffin to confirm!

I've worried about this before with the self compacting Conc being bit more fluid. Never been a prob. As has been said side pressure isn't great

Make friends with the Coddy or the forklift driver. Think you will find materials rather cheap! labour only might be the way forward for the quotes

Had a bit to do under some stairs the other day. Had some pink grip on the job so used that then spiked some nails in. Literally through the timber then just the point into the screed to stop any movement while I worked. We're talking 5mm at most.

Yeh 400 better. If sitting on masonry as above basement have you considered Conc beams?

Apparently cement can rot the mdpe according to latest inspector but others have always requested this. Not had a pipe rot on me yet. Think this guys suggestion was fire foam and wire wool

What pipe did you use? Would it be better to use that 16mm ufh stuff for this scenario. Because of the metal barrier it bends and holds shape really well. No need for elbows.

Say renovation cost of 50k inc all materials and labour but exc vat. Rather than personally you pay 60k i.e. 50k + 20% vat. Take 50k, add 10% margin 55k then 5% vat 2750 £57750 saving of 2250 up front plus 5k in company which is now profit. Less corp tax of 20%. Just a quick back of fag packet calc. I've not done it personally but that's how I would want to structure something. As I say probably not worth incorporating over but if you are already a vat registered contractor or subbie

Yeh building for yourself is BIK but I think mitigated by paying your company a profit margin. Say 10% then no BIK to my understanding. someone have to do the figures to see if better off incorporating company. I suspect not but if you already have one then should be better off?

multitool from below would sort that