Oz07

@Nickfromwales ok when you're doing a bathroom with 10 boards in. 5 screws on each joist. 35 screws per board might slow the house build down a bit. I use the egger system with ringshank sparingly never had a squeak

Free here too but be wary of following their advice. They advised my extension, although fine in principle should be set back and with lower ridge to make it obvious as an extension. I found 2 recent approvals where this was not the case. Submitted without taking this part or they're advice and approved. Waste of 8 weeks. Would have been miffed if paid for that.

Perhaps not in an area you would likely to extend the house over in future

Be fine for underneath a garden. As said filling low spots with a bit of sand or soil as it settles over years but if it means saving £ go for it

Correct me if I'm wrong but in England building control have no interest in anything under 30m2 internal. Build it off what you like in this case, even topsoil! This is where a good builder might help you. If you hit good ground 500mm down, and your house is only on similar footings in a similar location why go down to 1m.

Also stabila has lifetime gaurantee on accuracy. I've replaced one under this policy previously.

Sounds good. Guy I use is like a dinosaur!

Was any old gas engineer happy about connecting to this? Where did you get the connections. My bloke didn't sound keen when I floated the idea once.

Well done Jeremy. Think you deserve it with all the time and hard work you've put into the newbuild! All the stress paying off

Interesting thanks

So if sale falls through for any reason you still don't pay the 850 listing fee?

Jeremy am I reading this right or are you saying purple bricks do a no sale no fee type arrangement? This thread prompted me to seriously consider using one of these online agents

Well done not frying the brain needlessly. Start of a long journey and a attitude like that should keep you sane!

Hi from Leics too

Not yet no. Will it help as in because you will see any subfloor crack?

pocket cut out in border and heating pipe drop in that location also makes me think leak and dried out. No obvious cracks in walls to suggest subsidense.

Anyone like to have a guess why the below parquet floor was damaged. I thought possibly water damage with the associated radiator pipework being close by. Am I missing anything or does this sound likely?

As for widths all 15mm smaller and foamed into place.

Checked in tonight expecting to see one of these threads. Wasn't suprised! I think you have to posses a good understanding of how your system works to control the houses temperature. There's a few in here that have cracked it sure they will be along to help. Bit of experimentation and you should find a way.

Always seems prevelant in spring. Usually goes in newbuilds after 2 or 3 years. Worse if fairy has been used as opposed to plasticiser. Also if rainwater has got in as has been said. Chill it's not permanent!

Am I right in that OP gave builder a previous quote to price against and current builder only quoted against this as instructed. Builders are not qs'. He likely didn't employ one to help him quote because he was only asked to quote specifically against what was supplied. If this is the jist of things then I think a wake up call is needed. The contractor is losing all the cream where he was potentially going to make his money because op failed to do due diligence and get a proper spec. 1500 per m2 for a fully managed project isn't expensive. Sorry for the rant, might be wrong with above assumptions, just wanted to give balance. As to way forward like you say, sale of existing asap and rent. Will feel better with recharged warchest

High flow will reduce. As has been said use manufacturer websites

I haven't seen it but if you send your sizes to a truss company they should be able to quote you

Correct if you have ceiling joists. The question them becomes though why do you even need a steel. Timber ridge board 25mm thick.

A ridge beam won't add any height if you keep ridge at same level. Then you could cut rafters over top of beam then either drop some collar ties below this or expose if you choose an engineered timber product might look nice. Raised tie trusses might not solve the problem if you want big vaulted ceiling area nevermind price. Think ceiling tie can only be 1/3up from bearing wall plate level and still stop wall spread