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About MarkyP

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  1. And here it is. Runs really well and can't find a fault with it at all. Glad I went for a 3t, it's a handy size.
  2. I found a very tidy 3t Barford SX3000 last week, picked it up yesterday. Very pleased, it's in really good shape and has been well looked after by previous one owner. I was getting a bit fed up with looking at rust buckets and battered old machines so nice to find a good one at a sensible price. I'll add a pic later.
  3. my 60% outboard method also included going over the face of the window frame slightly with EPS. The windows are fine and included a monster 1200 x 2400 3g picture window which is very heavy (I recall installing only too well!) The brackets were/are rock solid, the EWI hasnt moved at all (nor did I expect it to). There are lots of ways to skin this cat, it's a quesiton of what you and your builder feel comfortable with. I've seen the compac foam method - looked neat - battens of compac foam securely bolted to the wall face in line with reveal to provide an insulated outboard structure to fix to and window sits in this. You could also fit a 50mm x 100mm timber batten to the bottom of the reveal to extend the structural sill out 50mm and sit the window partially on that, and use angle brackets to the side. You have to weigh up the stress and complexity of the solution with the gain, Therm models show that the cold bridge is reduced significantly by partially outboarding and even more by fully outboarding. But your renderer will also want a bit of reveal to play with to render in and up to your frame faces so if you have 90mm EWI then you might not get away with going much more than 50mm outboard. remember at this distance you should still be able to sit your window on the structural blockwork and just angle bracket the sides. You can also run metal flat from the side of the window to the side of the internal reveal. I'd also consider running strips of marine ply (12mm) as straight strap from side of window to inside of reveal as well, much reduced cold bridge. If I had my time again I'd use ply strips over metal brackets but my windows were a shade tight to allow a reasonable thickness of ply. Dont lose too much sleep over this detail - the EWI will be a huge improvement, this is marginal gains stuff now though always do what you can where you can do it, and within reasonable cost.
  4. thanks for replies, I'm thinking that perhaps a 3t is the way forward. Seem to be fewer 2 or 2.5t machines around in any case. Looks like you can source retrofit roll bars which I think would be useful as we are on a slope. @scottishjohnthe site isnt wooded, the larger section is former unimproved pasture on a very well drained, south facing chalk slope which has really prevented trees taking hold - the soil is thin and very dry in the summer. I've been clearing sections thick with scrub and bramble and restoring, it must have been hay meadow as without any effort to re-seed and just an annual cut it is already proving to be quite a remarkable flower meadow so the soil much have had a decent seed bank. Already several uncommon species of flower including some orchids, the aspect and soil means grass stuggles to take over so it's perfect conditions for chalk meadow. We do have quite a few areas around the house with some sycamores that will be coming out, but that's all well in the domestic curtilege so no worries there.
  5. building control should be flexible here, there is scope for them to compromise on insulation upgrades where there are significant limitations that might limit scope to achieve regs. And even 25mm EPS would be a huge improvement over nothing at al so I would be surprised if they wouldnt accomodate less if it was necessary. I cant recall whether with graphite EPS you need 100mm or 90mm, had a feeling it was the latter but maybe the regs have changed since I last looked. Your installer should give you a u-value calc for BC. maybe you already have a BC on the job, a chat would give you an idea. Mine was fascinated by EWI and hadnt seen it before, he took loads of pictures and several of his colleagues came for a look. one other neat feature to consider is using frameseal beads (pic below). These provide a gasket seal to the face of the frame and a mesh carrier for the render, they provide a nice detail for the renderer to work to and a neat finish along with a long term weather and wind seal to the frame, otherwise you'll be looking at rendering up the frame (can be scruffy) and a silicone joint which will fail over time. my renderer hadnt used them before but was converted and now uses them on all thin coat rendering jobs, EWI or not. They arent very expensive and take minutes to fit (self adhesive backing to hold to the frame until render is applied) if using a specialist contractor ask for some detail on the method and the products they are using, there's a lot of detail here and the stuff I mentioned above wasnt done by any of the installers who quoted me so I did it myself using a renderer on a labour basis with me fitting and detailing all the boards and sourcing the best product I could find myself if the soffit is going to be out during the installation, take the EWI up between the rafters and then foam in. You can then run loft insulation up the top of the EWI in the loft eaves
  6. I bought an old Takeuchi TB125 digger a while ago as I have a plot of several acres which was neglected for decades is in places very over grown and is in need of lots of work to get clear and under control plus loads of landscaping to do, drives and old hard standings to dig out - all sorts. The digger has been brilliant and I've done jobs that I wouldnt have dreamed of tackling before. But, as a few friends warned me, the issue quickly arises where you have great piles of spoil to shift over distances or deliveries of top soil or aggregates to move about. "you'll need a dumper" they said. So I'm seriously considering buying a used dumper. I learned a lot about the used plant market when buying the digger and already have seen some rust bomb 30 year old dumpers which have been re-sprayed signal yellow and put up for sale on ebay for £3k! Any tips or suggestions on what to consider? Is 4wd sensible (large sloping plot)? I am not considering the old manual tip machines, has to be hydraulic. Size is another consideration - 3t would probably be most the most versatile but I need to consider storage, those 3t machines aren't small, so wondering if a 2t would be a good compromise. I guess a machine with a roll bar would be sensible, but wonder if I could retrofit as many older machines dont have them? Any other suggested things to consider? Also budget - there are a lot of machines from £1k to £4k, with some looking like complete sheds, others sounding like they've been on a farm under cover and looking half reasonable on original paint. I guess ideally I'd like to spend less than £3k.
  7. it was two or three years ago now but when I did my EWI my research concluded that EPS was the best product. There had been some issues with PIR boards warping post installation under EWI, many major system suppliers dropped them and only support EPS, mineral wool or wood fibre. Worth checking out the green building forum for EWI threads, there's been some very comprehensive discussion over there over many years and there's some really good advice. I'd caution use of PIR unless you can be sure of a comprehensive manufacturuer backed warranty (even these are very dubious in my opinion). Even 70mm EPS will make a huge difference in relative terms (if you can go thicker then do, you dont need much soffit overhand and deep recessed windows look good in my view). Could you manage to sequeeze in 90 or 100mm EPS? Since my EWI the walls no longer feel cold and the temp variations in winter are much lower. You'll also note that when the heating goes off, it isn't freezing cold 40 mins later! Whatever board you use, make sure they install them well - I actually did a course in EWI (to learn how to apply the render, I can plaster a bit so it was pretty easy to pick up) But on the course, we did a morning doing some boarding and instructor actually said if you have any large gaps, fill them with basecoat! I challenged this and he sulked for the rest of the course but doing this is really bad, it creates a cold bridge, but worse it will mean that the render may dry unevenly (heat loss path will show the joints in the render) and in the long run there are examples of the joints staining through the render, I would guess because differential algae growth on the facade due to variable moisture content of the render. You want all joints to foam filled and also use thermally broken fixings recessed below surface with a cap of EPS to close - they work brilliantly and remove the cold bridge and also remove the risk of a fixing "grinning through" the render if sat a bit proud. Not sure what lambda you are using to calculate the u-values but worth checking you are looking at enhanced (graphite EPS) which is considerably better than standard, in the order of 0.031 (vs 0.038) from memory. Also worth noting that EWI grade EPS is cut from aged blocks to ensure dimensional stability - I used a mix of Kaycel EWI EPS and also some EPS supplied by Baumit. But be careful to ensure it's stuff for EWI. Do consider taking EWI down to the top of the footings (builder may not understand this or may be terrified of doing things below DPC so you might need to do some research and show some details) but do a search for plinth EWI (again masses of disucssion on GBF). Many of the large system suppliers now have details for plinth, the taboo of going below DPC seems to be fading which is good. Chose render carefully - your builder will likely plump for the cheapest acrylic finish coat unless you specify otherwise. Typically you will see a basecoat in two passess with a mesh embedded but then a thin coat finish. Worth paying a bit more for a silicate premium mineralic thin coat finish in my opinion (most manufactuers give this option) - it is a nice matt/mineral finish and can be readily painted with mineral paint in the future, otherwise you'll be looking at a film based paint over silcone or acrylic once it gets tired. Also silicone and acrylic can look a bit plasticky in my opinion. Also consider the grain size as well, the standard grain sizes again can look a bit tacky. I used Baumit nanopor fine - 1mm grain size and lovely flat matt mineral finish. (I ran a thread tracking my DIY EWI installtion over on GBF
  8. My installers suggested a long pole scraper after a day or two. They said otherwise your finish floor installer will need to sand it. I tried a hand scraper after a day or so and the laitence came off as a very ovious crumbly skin on the top. Laitence wasnt present everywhere but it was fairly obvious where it formed. I thought I'd save myself some money by not having the whole lot sanded and I'd scrape it off myself. I left the screed to dry and then realised the laitance had set rock hard and wouldnt scrape off so I had to pay extra to have it sanded. Some anhydrite firms will offer a service to come back and remove laitance for you with a floor sanding machine.
  9. the screeders should be working to a specified tolerance (SR2 is normal), ideally you want that in the contract. Self level would be something your finish flooring contractor might use if they were really not happy with the screed, but I wouldnt mention a plan to do that to the screeder, might be licence to do a sloppy job because you said you'd flatten it out later! We used microtopping over the screed, it's only a few mm thick and needs a nice flat sub-base. The installers said that over anhydrite it's fine because the screed is so flat, but over s&c they nearly always have to apply a smoothing compound first.
  10. We had an anhydridte liquid screed on the extension (over 150mm of PIR). My anhydrite is 60mm with ufh. It doesn't feel as solid as I would have liked. Stomping teenagers cause a noticeable tremour on the kitchen island. If i had my time again I would have gone with insulation under slab and either polished concrete or a thin smoothing screed over slab. Anhydrite is super fast to install. The pair of guys who did mine were good and prepared laser set levels thoroughly, it's flat as a pancake and there can't be more than a couple of mm variation across the 80m2. I laid a large slate hearth and it just sat perfectly flat, not so much as fag paper crack between it and the floor anywhere. We topped the screed with microtopping as a wearing surface. The anhydrite surface laitance is easier to remove in the first days after install, it scrapes off. If left longer it then bakes on and needs machine sanding. Guess which option I naively took?! Sand and cement will feel a bit more solid at 70mm but compare the cured dry density, I can't recall there was much in it. Finding good sand and cement screeder isn't easy, its a dying art and back breaking work. I've seen several local jobs which I scouted when trying to find a screeder (before plumping for anhydrite) and the quality wasn't great, curling up at edges and not very flat, maybe OK to tile over but not good enough for microtopping without first sorting with a generous coating of smoothing compound. There are a few screeding crews still around but check carefully any jobbing builders or plasterers who offer it as it's a real art and a good flat finish is hard won through lots of experience. Fibre reinforced screed ready mix delivered to site would be my pref over a pile of sand and a shovel. Both anhydrite and s+c take ages to dry! L , I left mine a full 8 weeks and even then gave the ufh a tickle for a few days to sure.
  11. well, I could get a u-value of around 0.12 with 100mm PIR between rafter ( now leaving ventilated void of 40mm from my 140mm rafter) and 100mm PIR under. But dec delay would be around 5hrs. I could put more PIR under rafter and get closer to 0.1 but the room space is getting tight. Is u-value really king? I have build ups above with very different mass profiles, and much longer dec delays.
  12. that's fine for new build Tony but I'm converting/renovating so somewhat constrained (note I've re-roofed and so I'm limited by rafter depth and what I can reasonably accomodate under rafter without compromising the room space). 0.1 isnt realistic here. the point of my question is less about the absolutes and really the relative merits of the two build ups. I've got a relatively high mass, good decrement delay vs lower mass slightly better u-value decision. If I had a magic want I'd lift the roof off and replace with with 350mm i-beams at 600cc fully filled with celllulose and enjoy the u-value and decrement delay, but sadly depite a few waves the wand isn't working 🙂
  13. I used graphite EPS for my bungalow renovation but that was rendered over. Works really well, annedotal but even having not yet insulated the rooms in the roof (see my other thread) we barely use the heating in winter. I think EPS is considered somewhat vapour open (if that matters) and is dimensionally stable (if using proper EWI EPS cut from aged blocks - I bought EWI grade KayCel for this reason, lots of no-brand stuff out there which I was dubious about).
  14. I'm in the process of a loft conversion and extension (4 years into the process to be exact!). My loft conversion and side extenion was timber 1st fixed and re-roofed ages ago and am finally getting around to looking at insulation of the new upper floor. I cant recall the value off hand (and I will check with BC before I commit) but I think I've got to achieve at least a pitched roof u-value of 0.18 for renovation/extension regs. I've got 140mm deep rafters and really can't afford to go much thicker than 100mm under rafter before it will start to encroach too much into the room. I'm looking at comparisons of a couple of insulation build ups. Having read various posts about decrement delay, and having a large south/southwest facing roof in an exposed spot I am worried about overheating the upper floor which is all "room in the roof". build up option 1 15mm fire grade PB/skim 100mm dense wood fibre under rafter (0.038, 110kgm3) 140mm flex wood fibre between rafters @ 400cc (0.036 Steico Flex, 60kgm3) OSB sarking counter batten/breather, batten, slate tile u-value around 0.17, decrement delay around 11hrs (just scrapes regs I think but not a great u-value) build up option 2 15mm fire grade PB/skim 100mm PIR under rafter (0.023, 30kgm3) 140mm flex wood fibre between rafters @400cc (0.036 Steico Flex 60kgm3) OSB sarking counter batten/breather, batten, slate tile u-value around 0.13, decrement delay around 8hrs (better u-value but at cost of reduced decrement delay) taking the conventional view that a lower u-value is better, I'd choose the option with PIR under the rafter over dense wood fibre. With regard to decrement delay I think I've grapsed the summer overheating bit but still puzzling over which build up would perform better in winter. My conventially influenced mind is pulled to the PIR under rafter option. I used the concrete centre thermal calculator but not 100% sure I've captured the bridging effect of the rafters, perhaps at least the decrement values are comparable relatively if not in absolute. any views on which is the better choice?
  15. thanks, I follow the forum pretty closely so not sure how I missed that recent thread. doesn't seem like there's much in the way of plug and play available which is a shame.