Oz07

What about normal house PIR style ones @PeterW do these get accidentally tripped?

Any one put a sensor in their garage? I'm thinking of pulling some cable through so sparks can add a new sensor in there. Possibly have it programmed to a different circuit so can be set at night? With the temperature differences and draughts in a garage does this cause false alarms or don't these detectors work like that?

never liked those hangers prefer a saw slit and sit normal ones in, don't have to do the whole birds mouth

My door sits around 10mm higher than slab and around 20mm of slab is exposed. In driven rain the first couple of hundred mm gets damp but generally stays dry because door is fitted behind 9" brickwork

expansion of slab. Your edging blocks will be haunched with concrete below gravel level. Mine is flush with edging blocks at top, probably 30mm higher than the block paving outside, then this ramp goes down over a meter or so to probably 150mm below ffl

If you ever fit rubber threshold under door it would span this also

Thats what I did with foam strip in between for expansion

Sorry missed that thread last week

Wouldn't a wider steel help eliminate the problem?

Could someone please quantify in laymans terms the real world difference of a wall u value between .18 and .2 for me? Single storey dwelling with around 90m2 of walls exc apertures. It's the difference of 25mm on chosen wall make up and I think the gain of 25mm would be better.

What i am saying is one run is inbetween two fixed points. Its obviously harder to fit than a kitchen with 2 free edges. Like I say if the dims are tight you may have to rip some units narrower. For a joiner it's probably a 3/10 difficulty if I have to give it a number?!

Depends how accurate dims are. Could well be ripping some off back of all l/h units

Id leave tiler to prime it. Not your fault if fails then

@joe90 is the airtight osb a specific product? What's the cost? Cheaper than membranes?

wouldn't worry about it @joe90 you've built a nice comfortable house now to enjoy (/garden!). What air tight detail did you do in your loft? Membrane or smart ply?

Dont fancy keeping those around for future DIY then @PeterStarck?

@Vijay surely you are winding him up?!

Talk about the long way around! What about a hole in roof and crane it in!? bought a pair of glass suckers off eBay for a tenner. Used them once then sold them for a tenner to the plumber who fitted the tray with me. There is no way simpler that allows you to manoeuvre tray with trapping fingers

Deffo not designer! Small rads as low output needed. I reckon 60/70 then pipework and sundries for system 2-300?

Got the quote form Wunda. Seems a bit more sensible than others. Also seems more suited to DIY or maybe thats just my interpretation of it. Question of cost now. Around 950 ex VAT for UFH. What would a 8 Radiator system cost with TRV's and pipework? £60 per rad excl labour?

Glass suckers

You not worried about that render sucking up moisture @nod? I'd fit behind. Like you say have structual opening wider and bring blockwork past 100/150mm with returns

Looks like there is an indent where hole should be. Are you sure it doesn't have some sort of flange where joist butts upto it to stop it coming out. It's a bodge but in reality there loads of that goes on up and down the country. See it all the time when stripping stuff back

When I first had oak worktops I hated them too. Too much tippy toeing around if you want them to stay looking pristine, joints have moved slightly despite being biscuited and glued and sanded and oiled all around. Unless you want the rustic look They're a bit needy for my liking. Might have that solid laminate in next place

Why do architects also sometimes prefer showing Back Inlet Gully for basins/sinks rather than internal 4" drain coming up?