Oz07

My conveyancer seemed to think this was not that straightforward. Apparently because you are splitting/selling to yourself, even if to your own ltd company then it throws up issues. I can't remember the ins and outs without looking into it but would be interested to hear how you get on OP and whether mine was just being defeatist. Having said that it wasn't impossible, just easier to build the new one first, then split title when you are ready to sell old one. If that is the case then probably to best to raise a mortgage on existing whole property, build new then settle mortgage when selling old. Be the cheapest finance surely?

Seen something which churches often use once. Was a dead simple composting soakaway. Diagrams were online somewhere. Not sure what a BCO would say

Big developers near me using one of these systems on a nearby job. Suspect they like to choose a system and stick with it. As has been said different insulation used. I used 6" PIR on last job under floor and don't think I hit that u vale, more like .15 from memory?

And did I read right in that the shorter these intake/extract intake pipes the less need for lagging/insulating? Note @pocster has a warm roof type setup but i'm asking for future reference

So can the mvhr vents go thru roof tiles? Do they have to be on sane elevation to prevent being unbalanced like Jeremy said his can be

Yeh but how do they know you've built one? Materials could feasibly pass as wastage on house. Any way I do actually want the official answer

What about if not shown on plans but built at same time? @Temp

The mix isn't wet. It's more like a kerb mix. Set your fall up with conc bed then put pipe on the fill around and on top

Could do with being similarly priced here might be a bit more sustainable then

Property is cheap there isn't it. That's like half the cost of Midlands

Furniture is a massive variable too. Forget that unless it's built in

Another vote for testing it at your end now if it takes you a day and earnsyou 2 grand it's a good day. What's the difference in cost between 32 and 25 connection?

@Declan52 you got aircrete?

How often is rain this heavy up there. Doesn't look a common occurrence to me. Low tech water butt below gutter on days like this!

What score did you get then @nod I thought conc weren't any less air permeable than thermals

Looks like aircrete can be a bit of a headache where large is concerned. With his is mind whats the best lightweight block 3.6n option to receive either parge coat or wet plaster finish?

Building regs wouldn't refuse you permission as such. Planning may be a different matter. Do you have alternative off road parking?

Totally agree

Developers don't plaster walls because it's more expensive!

What about normal house PIR style ones @PeterW do these get accidentally tripped?

Any one put a sensor in their garage? I'm thinking of pulling some cable through so sparks can add a new sensor in there. Possibly have it programmed to a different circuit so can be set at night? With the temperature differences and draughts in a garage does this cause false alarms or don't these detectors work like that?

never liked those hangers prefer a saw slit and sit normal ones in, don't have to do the whole birds mouth

My door sits around 10mm higher than slab and around 20mm of slab is exposed. In driven rain the first couple of hundred mm gets damp but generally stays dry because door is fitted behind 9" brickwork

expansion of slab. Your edging blocks will be haunched with concrete below gravel level. Mine is flush with edging blocks at top, probably 30mm higher than the block paving outside, then this ramp goes down over a meter or so to probably 150mm below ffl

If you ever fit rubber threshold under door it would span this also