Oz07

Think towable weight is easier to resell? Whats this upto maybe 2.8t max? Having said that you might get more bang for your buck buying one which can't be towed think 5t. As you're living it in one spot shouldn't bother you

Funnily enough weather was ok so cracked on outside. HD lintel with 50 kn/m UDL cheap enough in merchants. I got the tape out today and checked where I want my opening. Its about 450mm away from this support. There is actually existing opening into a different room below this. I would say the edge of the door frame is plumb with this support. Bet they haven't gone crazy above the door n all!

It will be b,regs but hadn't anticipated doing this just yet. To be fair I think I can move doorway away from this load slightly maybe 300mm away. Would rather be safe than sorry so glad I posed the question can always pick a steel up.

Could really do with understanding if 30kn/m would be anywhere close, in laymans terms

rsj jobbie? Its getting one thats the problem

Right got a doorway to knock out in bungalow tomorrow as weather is crap. 900 wide opening with around 500mm brickwork above but then this nasty purlin support detail on top of where doorway will be. I can pick up a 6" concrete lintel off the shelf which has 28.2 kn/m UDL. Im not looking for an exact calc here but is this likely to be massively on the safe side or massively undersized? Thanks in advance to anyone brave enough

What's the reasons for new Windows then? Secondary glazing an option?

So you've got plain (non insulated) corrugated metal and no condensation? Do you ventilate the garage or just natural airflow from gaps?

Would there be a condensation risk between osb and tin roof or would felt protect this?

will be mono pitch spanning two brickwork walls. Will bargeboard be suitable at top end? (with roof sheets slightly proud of wall) then maybe line of silicone on underside at bottom to stop capillary. I'd prefer cement sheets so no condensation but can't seem to get at over 3m

Key thing is to keep the waste segregated. Use the grabs for your inert and hard-core.

Just googled it ideal sleep temp 16-18

My bad it is a gas ch house with thermostat. The stat is set to 16 but the heating does click this off so must be somewhere between 16-18? It's not as if visitors are upstairs where I dare say it's a touch warmer. Regardless it can't be above 16 when I jump out of bed in AM. Heating goes off at ten pm.

Is 20c really cold to get out of bed for you @jack?! I have my temp set around 16 and everyone who visits comments that it's toasty. What's going on?!

So if planning was submitted and approved before occupation, then plot was sold off after homeowner had moved it you reckon Hmrc would not be of the opinion that property was "developed" (by uplift in planning value) while not ppr. Just playing devils advocate

So if someone applies for planning for additional dwelling/dwellings in garden of their ppr what would be following scenarios Application submitted and approved, land then sold before occupation application submitted and approved before occupation. Land sold after occupation. Application submitted before occupation. Approval granted and plot/plots sold after occupation

Reviving this thread. Anyone have the kahunas to risk a box profile on a garage with 3" of fall over 3m?! Obviously against manufacturers recommendations but I've come across fibre cement roofing at similarly low pitches which hadn't leaked.

What's the issue here then that the gain was made when not his ppr in Hmrc view?

I doubt it because most mixes are factory produced. I had a look into it last night interesting topic. It seems to be manufactured mortars aren't meeting designed standards. Some suppliers replacing cement with ash (power station stuff) at a much higher rate than reccomended. I think everyone will be safe buying off builders who mix their own!

Or is it reaction to additives in readymix?

Wonder why this is so widespread. Perhaps it is the cement as said. I can get Quinn cement from a local merchants cheaper than anywhere else but don't touch it. May have used on the odd fence post but nothing critical. Can't remember seeing a BS mark on the bag. Sure it complies and I'm sure companies don't set up cement plants producing sub standard product but I'd rather stick with a better known brand. What a consumer I am!

I guess most modern roofing felts are vapour permeable? If marketed as breathable that is? Don't like the idea of a dpm/vcl over top of joists. Seems overkill and makes life more difficult. Is a u value of .25 really likely to pose a condensation risk with a mineral wool type insulation?

As per title I know i've seen this covered on here before. Whats the best way to detail the mineral wool between suspended timber floor joists. Looking to improve u value to .25. Can roofing felt be used, stapled between joists to form a sort of cradle flush with bottom of joists then insert mineral wool then re deck floor? This way bottom of joists still receiving ventilation.

Dunlop was recommended on the job im on. Has still cracked although only has wall paint on atm. Perhaps the oil based will fill these cracks and stay good?!

I've always found mortgaged buyers easier than cash. Especially FTB they are the best. The problem with cash cash buyers is what they spend on the sundries involved in the purchase is a small portion of their money so they never feel locked in. Meanwhile a thousand pounds could be a big chunk to a 10% depo buyer. As well as that the mortgage process seems to keep the conceyancing wheels well greased.