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Found 41 results

  1. Does anyone have any advice when it comes to reviewing the roof truss design? We are having attic trusses.
  2. Weebles

    We have a leak

    Thought I'd add this to the blog but would be very grateful for some advice. Some construction background: MBC timber frame, flat roof, pumped insulation in roof void. Make up of roof is Sarnafil (hot welded) laid on a felt base, on top of 22mm OSB roof (with a slope), on top of 22mm OSB roof deck (flat - slope provided by battens to create the fall), then 400mm pumped insulation between the roof joists, air tight membrane, battens, 12mm plasterboard and skim. Roof lights on the flat roof (including a lovely round one, subject of another blog post). Yesterday we had some drips coming through the finished ceiling, about 700mm from the edge of our circular rooflight. We cut away some plasterboard to see what is going on. Plasterboard soaking wet, batten soaking wet and looks like the insulation is soaking wet. There is some water damage closer to the rooflight too, visible in the photo, but we started our cut at the plasterboard edge which is where the water started seeping through - the low point I guess. Have contacted roofing supplier and rooflight supplier (both of whom fitted their product). What shall I do next? I can't help feeling that without detecting the source of the leak neither supplier is going to help us. Any thoughts? Cut away our ceiling until we find the edge of the problem? (as we get nearer to the rooflight bit of course we are 7m off the floor ☹️)
  3. LSB

    Warm or Cold

    This maybe down to personal preference. But, what are the good / bad / ugly of warm roofs versus cold roofs and with flat roof (slight pitch) what do people think is better Thanks
  4. Hi all, I'm looking for recommendations on the best way to fill gaps in my exposed eaves and soffits. There are gaps of around 3-10mm around each rafter where is meets to soffits under the roof. This is letting in a draft and could also be a space for bugs to get in. I was thinking of using expanding foam in some of the larger gaps then mastic over the top with some external flexible mastic. I can then paint over the top. Does this sound ok or is there a better way? Cheers!
  5. How much weather can roof trusses withstand before they should be covered. As we are doing a DIY self build and we have a huge roof we are worried about how long this will take. We are having a metal roof so this can't be put on partially as it is sheets. So, how long is too long.
  6. I'm trying to work out where the flashing and cavity trays will sit on a roof abutment. I don't have the rafter to put in place and measure off, but I do have a drawing of the bay window roof exterior surface. I need to work all this out so I can get the positions of the stepped cavity trays correct as they get built in to the wall now. Their corners align with the corners of flashing, so it's lead me to try to understand this (excuse the pun). I can see NHBC recommend at least 85mm (some of their docs have 65mm min) between the roof surface and water line which defines the positions of one set of corners of the flashing. What I can't work out is what sets the position of the other set of corners. Is it just set by the height of courses and drawing a line perpendicular to the roof slope? I've seen something that suggests they sit on a line 150mm from the roof slope. I have attempted to draw this below with the lead shown in grey and the reference lines at 85mm from roof slope and 150mm from roof slope. The red rectangles show coursing and would be the positions of stepped cavity trays. Wider lead flashing or moving it off the roof slope slightly (so up the soakers a bit) would create a tighter angle on the 'saw teeth'. I imagine these must never result in the cut line sloping the other way. Is there a minimum amount of overlap on each step? Finally, can you stop when the lead goes past being vertically above the end of roof slope or is there a minimum amount it has to go past the end of roof slope. In the example below, could I have stopped one brick course higher at the bottom? Lots to understand so thank you if you made it this far.
  7. Another week of not really achieving anything. Due to our class Q PD planning we have to keep the dimensions exactly as they are, well I guess we could be smaller, but definitely not bigger. This is up, down and side to side. I have been looking at the roof, the main one as we have 2, which is huge at 24m x 10m and a single roof, i.e. not a pitch. This is how the barn looks now, we want a zinc or at least metal roof, but the minimum pitch is 8 degrees and I hadn't realised, and obviously neither did the architect, that the current roof is only 2-3 degrees. If I slope it more for the roof then the pitch is 34cm higher than the max we are allowed of 3.015m. My brain has had a real stretch this week working on tangents, sines and co-sines to try and get a solution. As the back wall is already rather low at 2.075m it's not feasible to reduce that to increase the pitch as we will lose too much liveable space. So, I guess I'm going to have to go back to planning and ask for either a higher max ridge of say 3.5m or change to a pitch roof which isn't converting as it is. The other option is to have part of the roof flat, I quite fancy sedum, but hubby won't hear of that, he is worried that a roof 24m x 5m runs the risk of too much weight with sedum and if we every get snow. Last weekend we also have a groundworker out as we need the floors levelling which means digging out some raised bits which are just floating on the main floor, I'm not sure why the farmer put them there originally. This is also causing concerns around foundations. Anyway, he took one look and then came the sharp intake of breath and "That's a huge job". Of course when I said we would look for someone else then he decided it wasn't too bad, but to get a quote I need to measure and photograph what needs doing and send to him, which I haven't done yet. He did come recommended, so it will probably be even worse getting someone blind. We have been let down before with shoddy workmanship, rising costs and unreliable timing so I'm planning on being more careful this time. It is so much easier to build from scratch, but the LPA have said that despite having conversion planning meaning there will be a house on site they would never agree to a new build. Hubby is threatening to take it down wall by wall dig deeper foundations and build it back up with a lower floor to give more roof height. I pointed out to him though that this would involve BC inspections and they would realise that it's not part of the plans. We do have one 18m wall that needs building from scratch. This really is one of those times when it is tempting to get in the estate agent and sell the plot, but as it is in my field I don't think I could bare to see someone else doing it. I'm sat in my 'site office' AKA' the caravan with the dog, who keeping passing very very smelly wind 😞 This doesn't help my brain either. Maybe this week will be the one where I make some progress on getting plans ready for structural drawings.
  8. I'm blessed with a 70s bungalow with a low pitched roof. Around 20m x 8m. I'd like to create an upside down house, leaving the current layout pretty much as is and create a large open plan space upstairs. The idea is to replace the roof trusses with 45 degree attic trusses or equivalent ridge beam and SIPS panel roof. If the foundations can take it, what are the gotchas over adding a roof to a new build? One issue I thought may be upsetting the current ceilings, but Moduloft seem to be able able to keep these intact. Thoughts greatly appreciated!
  9. I'll start with the GRP roof but I'll dedicate this whole blog entry to which I will deem the God-awful Rubbish Period. This probably seems like I'm over exaggerating but there's just been a lot of things combined with work, personal etc and I have really been feeling the pressure. Intially, as they started laying the fabric the GRP looked OK but, despite what I would say is perfect conditions for the GRP going on from what I know through reading on here we, were appalled by the quality of the work. Without bombarding this blog with pics unless you really, really want to see them, just take my word for it, it was bad! I believe I this was subcontracted but as we have not been on site I think it's been done by the builder themselves. Needless to say I was not happy so met with the builder who muttered something about weather and acknowledged it was poor. There has been some improvement but I can't say I'm entirely happy but I believe this will be rectified, hopefully. I also raised the issue of the rooflight upstands not been GRPd to the roof and something is happening with lead flashing so I'm hoping that will be rectified too. Here is the current GRP as it stands, comments welcome because I don't know if I'm being over picky but I want to be prepared for meeting the builder this week so please give me your opinions. Roofing aside, thanks to the people that contributed to the thread on our ASHP and solar @PeterW and @ProDaveothers as I really feel I would have had a complete meltdown. For some reason the idea of fitting a PV immersion controller seemed to cause all sorts of issues and it's literally blown my mind trying to explain to people that should know more than me how to do it and what is needed. And my final rant, how is it despite giving delivery drivers instructions they still turn it in an articulated lorry the size of a double decker bus.... er no you will not that over a canal bridge! Took delivery of a bathroom suite after it was pump loaded over the bridge with the lorry blocking the farm who were not happy and finally unpacked it to find the whole lot was damaged. Can't get the same items now as they are out of stock but in some good fortune the bathroom company decided it was far too much hassle to collect them again so let us keep them and refund the money so we can flog them to try and pay for an alternate suite. We did finally get all our 12 panel GSE 3.84kw PV system and immersion controller for under £2300 which has now been delivered which is a relief. If the builders make as much of a dog's dinner of fitting this as they did of the GRP I'll have an absolute breakdown 🤯
  10. Ever since we moved in we have always been asked "is it two bungalows or one?" Weirdly it was designed exactly like the main picture (which was the start of our build as they were doing the footings). I think it was all a bit of a ploy. Roll back to early 70s when it was some sort of large vegetable patch. Planning permission was refused for two bungalows, various amendments and someone designed the bungalow as it is today, one bungalow suspiciously looking like two bungalows separated by a flat roof. I think they planned to build it and then attempt to get it split into two bungalows but it never happened. We have always wanted to somehow 'connect' up the roof and to be honest it's all been a bit vague on how this would be achieved. Mid build architect and builder got together, another £200 for some more beam calcs and over yesterday and today it is all looking a bit more like one bungalow. This pic is from the scaffolding and you can finally see the roof joining with the large flat roof extension. From the canal/bridge it now looks far more connected though this pic doesn't do it much justice (yesterday). And from the garden looking into our kitchen: What we really like is our ensuite, which, in the absence of any external walls will have a nice fixed rooflight on the flat roof just above our toilet/sink vanity unit which will be slightly raised from the ceiling (not the best pic).
  11. We have an existing 3m tall garage/workshop which sits alongside the house but partially in front of the principle elevation. It is war-time era (probably built before the house in fact which is a 1960's bungalow) and constructed from concrete block walls with Asbestos roof sheeting.....yes I know the 'A' word!. For this reason as well as the fact it leaks and is an eye sore, we are looking to replace the roof with new trusses and tiles. Under permitted development we have read that, provided the various criteria is met, any outbuilding if fitted with a dual pitch roof can be 2.5m at the eaves and 4m at the peak. This is what we should like to install as the replacement, but we are unsure how PD applies to existing outbuildings and although we meet all the remaining criteria there is the issue that some of the garage does sit just in-front of the main dwelling. Has anyone had a similar scenario & have any useful knowledge they could share with us please?
  12. Hi all, I apologise if this isn't in the correct area but I need some advise on the type of roof system used at Piccolino in Alderley edge. It's a retractable system but its very modern and not just a general slide across roof (at least not how it looks). Does anyone know anything about the design or mechanics of this? I am a part of a project where the owner is keen to include a similar design as he is trying to keep part of the existing roof for character, so something like this would work perfect. It's a long shot and not an easy question to answer, but any help is valuable. I've attached a few images to show what I'm on about. However, I can't show images of our current project as requested. Many thanks, E
  13. Hello everybody, I have been striping plaster in the 1st floor of my house and I have found out possible quite serious problem which I am not sure how to treat. The wall plate overlap connection is broken and the beam itself has been pushed few cm outwards. The beams ends aren't aligned. Whole thing seems to have happened in the past and seems stable at the moment but I want to make new ceilings hanging on rafter ties and I am worried about future stability of the roof. The idea I came up so far is to add some new rafter ties sitting slighly higher than the current ones to prevent roof from spreading further and add some heavy duty L-bend steel straps fixed to the wall and the beam. Still not sure how to reconnect two beams. Do you thinks this is feasible or have any other ideas? Should I get structural engineer to look at it? Thank you very much for any inputs Vaclav
  14. I have 20mm polystyrene sheet to insulate the interior of the roof (the polystyrene is appropriate to this use, relevant BS EN standards - the 'outbuilding' is my new posh shed not a dwelling of any kind 😉 The roof (sloping not flat) is constructed of 20mm OSB on wood joists (photo) and covered with heavy duty bituminous felt externally. I'm thinking of applying the polystyrene direct to the underside of the OSB using a spray adhesive. Is it ok to do this?...Im wondering if there could be any issues with the OSB being 'sealed' both sides? Thanks Andy https://photos.app.goo.gl/hR3GJWvXyNuwqsVJ6
  15. HI, I am looking to change my flat bathroom roof to a sloping roof, would i need 1)planning permission 2)building control 3) both the above 4) none Images : Before https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnciZIqTBf0Vg8UEs3KjIQhyt3tXvQ?e=RZirih https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnciZIqTBf0Vg8UDJkuCsCJi9Wvqhg Images : After https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnciZIqTBf0Vg8UC-hi62Wv6bAGMLQ?e=AbiKDA Reply to topic
  16. Hi, I wanted to ask for your advice here on the forum. My roofer started building a wooden frame for a new roof window - pivoted Velux 2070. With the dimensions of 55x78cm it seems to me rather small and I would be interested in having a bigger window to provide as much natural light as possible. My builder is saying that the frame he constructed is of the maximum size possible without seriously changing structural parts of the roof. I'm not a specialist, but it seems to me that since the two rafters are already cut (see photo attached) that the size of the frame and window could be significantly bigger - or am I missing something? Advice appreciated!
  17. We are planning to renovate our 1960s chalet bungalow (cavity walls, reconstituted stone). Photo attached. Footprint is 11m x 7m; ridge is 3m long. Building is structurally sound and existing foundations are good enough to build a new two storey, timber-framed house on them. Before we get carried away with ideas, we would like an indication of the relative costs of three options: (i) Re-roof and re-do the existing dormers and probably remove both chimneys (this is base level option); (ii) Remove chimneys, convert hips to gable ends (with hipped or gabled dormers for better kerb appeal) to provide a bit more interior space; (iii) remove roof and chimneys, replace with timber-framed, flat-roofed timber-clad, first floor extension giving a lot more upstairs space (+ cosmetic alterations to give a contemporary look). I can work out demolition, flooring, walls, bathrooms, electrics and so on but have no idea about the roof and exterior wall elements. Just wondered if there was anyone on the forum who could give ball park range of figures for each option as a starting point for us?
  18. Hey guys, thank you so much for letting me join the forum. What a great place to find honest, experienced opinions and information. I'm working on converting a garage into a soundproofed studio and need to work out some issues with insulation and particularly ventilation. The room is 19.38 square metres so suitable for a mini-split system, which also means fewer holes in walls where sound could leak. However, I can't find out whether this would satisfy Building regs. Ideally it won't have opening windows or trickle vents, and only has one door to the house's hallway (ie doesn't access fresh external air). I guess the alternative would be to have a constant air intake and out take with a heating/cooling system but obviously that's more holes, ducting and baffling. Any advice anyone has on this would be extremely useful. Thanks so much, Andy
  19. Hi everyone, similar questions as my previous post. Is there anything wrong with this detailing? Any suggestion? Thank you in advance - 100mm dimension gutter
  20. Morning, Really need some advice and thoughts on my roof construction. It's not the simplest of roofs and is quite large. There's 2 levels, over to the left is on top of single storey and the middle/right is on top of 2 storey. They are all habitable rooms so were designed as room in roof attic trusses and are designed as a cold roof. The roof is to have 12mm OSB sarking. I guess my question is would you go with this construction method? Is there a better of of building this roof or a better bang for your buck method? I also contacted Thermoroof after spotting it on the latest series of Grand Designs, but they never bothered replying (I've just emailed them again). Is SIPS worth considering for a roof? My guess is it would work out flipping expensive but maybe balance out by the time I've bought all the trusses/insulation/sarking? Are there any other systems worth considering? This is the layout
  21. Can anyone identify these? I have looked at about 1000 images and cannot see anything similar. I thought for a while they might be Marley Ludlow Majors or Redland 49's but I have decided these are too rounded for that, but I don't think they are Romans either. My guess on colour is brown or antique brown (basically brown!). Thanks
  22. This week I came across a team installing entire sections of loft on a house-build with a seriously large crane. Really quite interesting, and an opportunity to indulge in some doggerel. As I was planning for my toft I met a man with a Modular Loft Windows were installed and tiles With insulation, floors and style Windows, Lift, Loft, Tiles Make an instant ancient pile! A extraordinarily transportable loft - But do I want one for my toft? (with apologies to St Ives) More photos below, and you can see the contact details on the side of the van in the last picture if you want one.. Gently does it... What they are matching... Close-ups and Details The Company Installing
  23. All, today's torrential downpours have resulted in a leak in my living room roof. When the OSB boards were originally put down, it started to rain before we could get them covered. The roofer did his best to dry the boards out and put down the GRP roof. He did warn us it was not ideal, but we were desperate to move in, so I told him to just go for it. 3 years on and the top coat is flaking badly and the roof has started to leak. I intend to go up tomorrow morning, clean up the roof and put down some repair product that my brother swears by. Has anyone got any advice on how to clean up the flaking topcoat as it is really tough stuff and cannot simply be pulled away? Thanks in advance, Narinder
  24. I'm trying to decide on my roof make up. If i go with tradition and have sarking boards on my rafters, covered with a membrane and slates nailed directly through, then what ventilation should i provide? My rafters are 245mm depth (i have 1 and 1/2 storey room in roof) so i have scope with insulation. My original specification involved fibre cement slates, battens and counterbattens, ventilated above membrane, on OSB. Below OSB a 50mm vent gap, then 190 mm of PIR between rafters, 25 mm PIR internally across rafters, then plasterboard. But now i'm thinking of natural slate. Do i need ventilation gap beneath sarking boards? I've read some details which say i can full fill between rafters, which could open the way for Frametherm roll or equivalent, and internal PIR across rafters, possibly 50mm. And do i need ventilation above fascia and in ridge?
  25. We need to put some insect mesh on our parapet roof edges. Got to allow ventilation into roof but stop the insects. Soon the parapet will be covered by a Sarnafil roof covering which will overhang, still letting ventilation come up but effectively weatherproofing the mesh. What sort of mesh would you use? Stainless steel (expensive but longer lasting) or plastic (cheaper but will it last?) or PVC coated woven fibreglass? Or something else? And will a staple gun do to fix it - if so, any clues on staple sizes? This is Saturday's job so going to need to order some stuff pronto. Sorry no photo - too dark to take one now.