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  1. HI, I am looking to change my flat bathroom roof to a sloping roof, would i need 1)planning permission 2)building control 3) both the above 4) none Images : Before!AnciZIqTBf0Vg8UEs3KjIQhyt3tXvQ?e=RZirih!AnciZIqTBf0Vg8UDJkuCsCJi9Wvqhg Images : After!AnciZIqTBf0Vg8UC-hi62Wv6bAGMLQ?e=AbiKDA Reply to topic
  2. Weebles

    We have a leak

    Thought I'd add this to the blog but would be very grateful for some advice. Some construction background: MBC timber frame, flat roof, pumped insulation in roof void. Make up of roof is Sarnafil (hot welded) laid on a felt base, on top of 22mm OSB roof (with a slope), on top of 22mm OSB roof deck (flat - slope provided by battens to create the fall), then 400mm pumped insulation between the roof joists, air tight membrane, battens, 12mm plasterboard and skim. Roof lights on the flat roof (including a lovely round one, subject of another blog post). Yesterday we had some drips coming through the finished ceiling, about 700mm from the edge of our circular rooflight. We cut away some plasterboard to see what is going on. Plasterboard soaking wet, batten soaking wet and looks like the insulation is soaking wet. There is some water damage closer to the rooflight too, visible in the photo, but we started our cut at the plasterboard edge which is where the water started seeping through - the low point I guess. Have contacted roofing supplier and rooflight supplier (both of whom fitted their product). What shall I do next? I can't help feeling that without detecting the source of the leak neither supplier is going to help us. Any thoughts? Cut away our ceiling until we find the edge of the problem? (as we get nearer to the rooflight bit of course we are 7m off the floor ☹️)
  3. Hi, I wanted to ask for your advice here on the forum. My roofer started building a wooden frame for a new roof window - pivoted Velux 2070. With the dimensions of 55x78cm it seems to me rather small and I would be interested in having a bigger window to provide as much natural light as possible. My builder is saying that the frame he constructed is of the maximum size possible without seriously changing structural parts of the roof. I'm not a specialist, but it seems to me that since the two rafters are already cut (see photo attached) that the size of the frame and window could be significantly bigger - or am I missing something? Advice appreciated!
  4. We are planning to renovate our 1960s chalet bungalow (cavity walls, reconstituted stone). Photo attached. Footprint is 11m x 7m; ridge is 3m long. Building is structurally sound and existing foundations are good enough to build a new two storey, timber-framed house on them. Before we get carried away with ideas, we would like an indication of the relative costs of three options: (i) Re-roof and re-do the existing dormers and probably remove both chimneys (this is base level option); (ii) Remove chimneys, convert hips to gable ends (with hipped or gabled dormers for better kerb appeal) to provide a bit more interior space; (iii) remove roof and chimneys, replace with timber-framed, flat-roofed timber-clad, first floor extension giving a lot more upstairs space (+ cosmetic alterations to give a contemporary look). I can work out demolition, flooring, walls, bathrooms, electrics and so on but have no idea about the roof and exterior wall elements. Just wondered if there was anyone on the forum who could give ball park range of figures for each option as a starting point for us?
  5. Hey guys, thank you so much for letting me join the forum. What a great place to find honest, experienced opinions and information. I'm working on converting a garage into a soundproofed studio and need to work out some issues with insulation and particularly ventilation. The room is 19.38 square metres so suitable for a mini-split system, which also means fewer holes in walls where sound could leak. However, I can't find out whether this would satisfy Building regs. Ideally it won't have opening windows or trickle vents, and only has one door to the house's hallway (ie doesn't access fresh external air). I guess the alternative would be to have a constant air intake and out take with a heating/cooling system but obviously that's more holes, ducting and baffling. Any advice anyone has on this would be extremely useful. Thanks so much, Andy
  6. Hi everyone, similar questions as my previous post. Is there anything wrong with this detailing? Any suggestion? Thank you in advance - 100mm dimension gutter
  7. Morning, Really need some advice and thoughts on my roof construction. It's not the simplest of roofs and is quite large. There's 2 levels, over to the left is on top of single storey and the middle/right is on top of 2 storey. They are all habitable rooms so were designed as room in roof attic trusses and are designed as a cold roof. The roof is to have 12mm OSB sarking. I guess my question is would you go with this construction method? Is there a better of of building this roof or a better bang for your buck method? I also contacted Thermoroof after spotting it on the latest series of Grand Designs, but they never bothered replying (I've just emailed them again). Is SIPS worth considering for a roof? My guess is it would work out flipping expensive but maybe balance out by the time I've bought all the trusses/insulation/sarking? Are there any other systems worth considering? This is the layout
  8. Can anyone identify these? I have looked at about 1000 images and cannot see anything similar. I thought for a while they might be Marley Ludlow Majors or Redland 49's but I have decided these are too rounded for that, but I don't think they are Romans either. My guess on colour is brown or antique brown (basically brown!). Thanks
  9. This week I came across a team installing entire sections of loft on a house-build with a seriously large crane. Really quite interesting, and an opportunity to indulge in some doggerel. As I was planning for my toft I met a man with a Modular Loft Windows were installed and tiles With insulation, floors and style Windows, Lift, Loft, Tiles Make an instant ancient pile! A extraordinarily transportable loft - But do I want one for my toft? (with apologies to St Ives) More photos below, and you can see the contact details on the side of the van in the last picture if you want one.. Gently does it... What they are matching... Close-ups and Details The Company Installing
  10. All, today's torrential downpours have resulted in a leak in my living room roof. When the OSB boards were originally put down, it started to rain before we could get them covered. The roofer did his best to dry the boards out and put down the GRP roof. He did warn us it was not ideal, but we were desperate to move in, so I told him to just go for it. 3 years on and the top coat is flaking badly and the roof has started to leak. I intend to go up tomorrow morning, clean up the roof and put down some repair product that my brother swears by. Has anyone got any advice on how to clean up the flaking topcoat as it is really tough stuff and cannot simply be pulled away? Thanks in advance, Narinder
  11. I'm trying to decide on my roof make up. If i go with tradition and have sarking boards on my rafters, covered with a membrane and slates nailed directly through, then what ventilation should i provide? My rafters are 245mm depth (i have 1 and 1/2 storey room in roof) so i have scope with insulation. My original specification involved fibre cement slates, battens and counterbattens, ventilated above membrane, on OSB. Below OSB a 50mm vent gap, then 190 mm of PIR between rafters, 25 mm PIR internally across rafters, then plasterboard. But now i'm thinking of natural slate. Do i need ventilation gap beneath sarking boards? I've read some details which say i can full fill between rafters, which could open the way for Frametherm roll or equivalent, and internal PIR across rafters, possibly 50mm. And do i need ventilation above fascia and in ridge?
  12. We need to put some insect mesh on our parapet roof edges. Got to allow ventilation into roof but stop the insects. Soon the parapet will be covered by a Sarnafil roof covering which will overhang, still letting ventilation come up but effectively weatherproofing the mesh. What sort of mesh would you use? Stainless steel (expensive but longer lasting) or plastic (cheaper but will it last?) or PVC coated woven fibreglass? Or something else? And will a staple gun do to fix it - if so, any clues on staple sizes? This is Saturday's job so going to need to order some stuff pronto. Sorry no photo - too dark to take one now.
  13. Hi all, I am currently constructing a 30° pitched garage roof (this can be seen over on the garage build). Pretty simple design, 4 trusses, purlins and rafters over the purlins, 11mm OSB over the rafters, I have started sheeting it from the ridge down to within a half sheet of the bottom of the rafters where I will hold of until I confirm the next bits and pieces such as how big I want the overhang etc. So my next stages include boxing out the lookouts for the gable end overhangs, fit fascia boards etc. cut the rafters with a straight face to my required length to get the overhang I want etc. and obviously finish sheeting it up. So here are my questions: 1. Does the roofing sheet come down and over the top of the fascia board, with the roofing membrane running down over this joint and into the gutter, the tile then overhangs over the lot of it? 2. I was going to use a eaves guard, so following on from above, it must sot over the fascia board as it drips into the gutter - should I use these or is it not needed? 3. I note on images and roof I have seen being installed locally often a rooming batten is mounted at the very bottom of the rafter which the last tile sits on, is this correct and if so what about the increased gap it creates at the bottom - is this not a possible wind blown water issue? 4. On the gable ends I have a 200mm overhang, I have not sheeted right to the edge yet as the way it has been laid out in full sheets my cut sheets will go on last, do I take these up to the edge of the rafter or do I overlap the thickness of the barge boards? 5. Does the roofing membrane return down over the barge boards and assuming I use a painted wood or PVC barge board would I simply allow the membrane to come down the face of the board slightly then it will be dressed with a dry verge, so any water that gets under the tile will run down the roof or over to the end, down onto the barge board (behind the dry verge) and down causing no damage? Now lastly I need to order all my roofing materials, roofing is probably the one trade that I have never had to do, so although it is not rocket science I appreciate there are a lot of roofing supplies out there, from vented ridge systems and all sorts, I understand it is fairly simple and from the limited details available online I have pieced it all together but I just want to check my shopping list and not end up with incorrect things or things I don't need etc. On my list so far I need to order battens (I will use vertical and horizontal), tiles, ridge tiles a dry verge system and either wood to paint for my fascias and soffits or PVC stuff, I thought eaves protectors too. Is there anything else I should be considering? Does anyone else have a garage roof shopping list they could share with me? Last of all, does anyone have decent images of their roofing construction, I am looking for photos showing the rafter ends, gable ends and how these details are all formed up. Thanks
  14. Hi, I am about to have an extension onto the side of my house with a flat roof – it’s about 30 square meters. The current plan is for a zinc roof, however we are thinking about the possibility of a grass/living roof. I was wondering what the pros and cons are for doing this? Is it relatively simple to do? Is it that difficult to maintain or is it just some decent effort that is needed? Does it cost a lot more than a zinc roof? And is this something a traditional roofer will do or is this a specialist trade? Of course I have googled all of these but I’m sure this site will have the real answers !!!
  15. People have been discussing budgets recently and I just wondered what people have spent on travelling to Self Build shows, courses and product selection such as windows, kitchens etc. Over the last couple of years we have been to quite a few shows at the NEC incl Self Build and Grand Designs. We travelled to Glasgow and Truro to see window manufacturers and numerous visits to the window manufacturer of our choice, 100 mile round trip each time. Went to South Wales to do our roofing course and not to mention all the local trips, 50 to 60 mile round trips to see kitchen suppliers,tile and lighting shops. Not only is this costly but it takes a lot of time but we think it is all worth it if you want to build the house of your dreams.
  16. From @JSHarris and others I have learnt about the importance of decrement delay as a characteristic of the fabric of a house in providing internal comfort. Background. My build may well be a single-floored, flat-roofed building of contemporary design. As a rear-garden plot surrounded by other dwellings, it has precious few sight lines and instead will have a profusion of roof lights to let in light. As a (near) Passive House, the roof will be thick and there is a concern that the roof lights will give the impression from inside of a house deep underground. One suggestion to address this is to thin the roof, to use high-prefromance insulation such as vacuum panels in the roof to improve the aesthetic look instead of cellulose filled I-beams. So far so good but I worry that a roof with vacuum panels will have a low decrement-delay factor. So to the subject decrement delay. As I have learnt, a cellulose-filled roof would have a welcome decrement factor. But what about vacuum panels? I have done a little google-ing and came across the following summarised from here: Thus to my question: how can Vacuum Insulated Panels have a decrement delay of 0 hr? I understand that the decrement-delay factor is product of λ (lambda), which is very low for vacuum panels. But is also related to specific heat capacity and the density of the material concerned and I do not understand how to consider these two for a vacuum insulated panel. I wonder, can anyone enlighten me? (For those interested in learning more about decrement delay factor, I found this explanation a help:
  17. Sometimes you just have to suck it up. And now is as good a time as any to accept that we aren't going to get a roofer to come and help before Christmas. I have asked til I'm blue in the face: no dice. Debbie's being brave about it, conclusion: I'd better Just Bloody Do It. So, I'll be paying for my own mistakes rather than pay for those of others. Differently put: the Full-On-DIY -experience. I thought I'd teach myself how and in the process, document it. And then read your critiques. And wince I expect. This post builds on the earlier thread about the Piggery, and the roof beam saga : that proved remarkably painless, and quite safe, for two people because we'd thought it through. It only weighed 160 kg : just over 7 meters long. £500 crane fees saved. The very nice man from Haldane Fisher's HIAB played a key role: it's reach was about 2 meters short of what was needed. Some ya win. Where are we now? Here : a set of rafters which are currently subject to close inspection by our swallows, What's the roof build up? Rafters Counter battens Felt Battens Slate There's provision for a few kWh of PV, and a Velux in there somewhere too. I list the better resources I have found below. Most of them contain commercial material, none of which I or BH endorse(s). As usual when faced by this type of problem, I resort to YooChube, hence: How to slate a roof: layout ready for slating, Slating a roof, reference points The accompanying website There are many other sites: This one is Irish, very well edited, deals with the basics - some interesting comments too Setting out: perhaps a bit direct, but detailed images Setting out the lats: brief but to the point Wincing, I add this video because with the sound off and ignoring H+S its illustrates a 'normal' truss roof DIY Doctor often focuses on repair, but this is about tiling and battening as well as felting Construction Channel carries a series of time-lapse based videos about roofing at least four of them are here There's nowt like reading the comments under many of the videos: my God they can be bitchy: I thought it was only lecturers who were bitchy about colleagues' practice. I'll add to the list above time goes by. If you find a good support / teaching / learning resource about roofing and slating, please share it below. Ian
  18. Hi all, I was wondering if any of you have come across these solar tiles before? I saw them at the Homebuilding show at the NEC. They appear to be some kind of solar silicone matt stuck on to what looks to be a Marley Eternit Modern Interlocking Concrete tile. Essentially you can have as many or as few as you need to make up your solar requirement. I've spoken to them and had a ballpark quote, if I do my entire south facing roof (200m2) with them, I'll end up with 30Kw of solar for just over £50k. Its important to note that this is the cost with the system installed including Solar Inverter and all cabling etc. They don't do a supply only which is a shame. What are your thoughts? I'm still looking in to the costs of tiling the roof with slates and integrated solar panels as @JSHarris did.
  19. vivienz

    Bat update

    Another day, yet another little gem of learning. I've been getting a bit worried because although I got the bat licence last week, my glacial paced architect had done nothing about getting the pre-commencement planning conditions discharged for several weeks, even though everything was in place for some time. But that's another grumble for another day. Anyhow, I've got to get the roof off by the end of April, which is why I was getting my proverbial knickers in a twist over the pre-commencement stuff, so I decided to cut out the middle man and rang the planning officer to ask whether, pleeeease, nice Mr Planning Officer, would you mind awfully, as you're such a nice chap, if I sort of, kind of, well, take the roof off the bungalow to make sure no pesky bats come back? Pretty pleeeeeease? Nice Mr Planning Officer said 'no problem at all, no need to grovel, you are entitled to re-roof your house any time you like. Just because you don't get around to putting new tiles back on, that doesn't stop you taking off the existing ones to begin with. Now stop grovelling.' He didn't really tell me stop grovelling, but his tone implied it, along with the strong impression that he couldn't care less about the bats. Either way, result. Fate being the fickle creature that she is, but no more so than the aforesaid architect, I got an email from the architect's admin person late this afternoon to say that they had submitted for discharge of the initial planning conditions. I prodded them with a very sharp stick on Monday morning - the architect has possibly just taken this long to notice. I'm waiting to co-ordinate availability of ground worker and bat guy over the next 2 weeks, then off comes the roof. Followed by the rest of the house shortly afterwards, with luck.
  20. Just about to order some more PIR having sorted out my plan of attack. Half of this pitched roof is going to be 'vaulted' (i.e. Just one pitch of the roof with internal wall coming up right up to the ridge). So planning to fill between the 75mm (yes 75mm!) rafters with 25mm PIR and then a further 200mm PIR under the rafters. That leaves me with a 50mm ventilation gap. It's a slated roof with battens (not countered or any sarking) but have Tyvek breather membrane which I think means I could even reduce ventilation gap to 25mm? Build Reg Table 2 seems to say that roof u-value should be 0.18: This is a retrofit rather than new build but I want to get as good as I can get u-values and not simply satisfy BR! I've read so many conflicting roof values ranging from 0.11 to 0.2! Just need a sanity check that I'm on the right track here. Celotex calculator tells me I will end up with around 0.1 so with my EWI and 3G windows I am hoping i am on the right path. Everyone's specs are different but with BR values being pretty dire it's difficult to guage what a decent u-value would be! Should I try and improve on 0.1? I may be able to add a further 50mm but would mean fitting the plasterboard becomes a bit more cumbersome (Would probably have to fit battens underneath PIR and then fix PB to that).
  21. Bit of help needed here please. Part of our roof is flat. I am determined to avoid at least some of the problems associated with flat roofs if I can. One strategy is to create a significant fall on the roof. The question is how to create that fall easily and hopefully cheaply. The plan: The elevation: The architect has noted that we should use soft wood (SW = soft wood I assume ?) tilting fillets. I note from this post that we should make the fall 1 in 40 or steeper. (Thanks @tonyshouse) The Fall: Is there any reason why we should not build that fall into the POSI joists in the first place? (instead of using tilting fillets?) Attaching the wall plate (rim joist) As planned, the wall plate (rim joist) attachment system (threaded bar resined into the concrete behind, I should imagine) will butt up to the Durisol block face: and that is the face which is backed by 185mm of graphite polystyrene - and then 120mm of concrete. On the other side of the Utility and boots room, the wall plate abuts the 'internal' face - the concrete 'side' of the Durisol block, so there is no potential problem with that face. In short, does the 185mm of insulation matter when attaching the wall plate (rim joist)? To help you visualize my concern, here's a schematic image of a Durisol block.
  22. I'm about to pour the last bit of concrete before putting in the wall-plate on the piggery. Have a look at this; Once I have poured the last 100mm or so of concrete, (in the holes you see) I will need to fasten the wall-plate to it. Should I run the wall-plate right the way through the gable, or cut the wall-plate flush with the gable and fill that with concrete? The image below should help explain.. I have deliberately not poured concrete into the gable block in line with the wall-plate - just in case your advice is that the wall-plate should run all the way through the gable Maybe it doesn't matter, and both options are reasonable. Just for information, this building isn't subject to Building Regs: it replaces the old piggery which has stood there for about a century or so.
  23. Hi. Current annoyance is trying to find a supplier for a stairwell smoke ventilation window / roof vent for a pitched roof. Anyone got a lead for such a supplier ? Has to open to 120 degrees from horizontal iirc. Thanks all.
  24. Things have slowed down a bit for various reasons too boring to relate. So, I've decided to finish the Piggery myself, and let the main builder finish the house (when he decides to come back on site). In @Construction Channel's words, "How hard can it be?" The main aim is to rebuild the piggery to look (outwardly) exactly the same as it looked before, but to turn it into a useful storage and utility space. This is what the piggery used to look like but now it looks like this Just in case anyone thinks that a forum Admin is an expert, let's be clear, I haven't built anything in my life before. (Failed Woodwork at school, got thrown out of Metalwork too). But I did spend years watching my dad build bridges. (M5, M50) There are a series of challenges here Design and build the roof Make the connections for water and sparks Clad it Build and fit the doors Connect the Piggery to the house (water and sparks) Fit it out: washing machine, storage racking, sink I have never done any of this before. So, I'd be glad of your help. I'll try and keep a detailed record of what I plan to do and then compare it with what really happens. I would not have considered doing this without the experience of the generosity of BuildHub. The aim of this post is to give something back, especially to all those who do not post, to those who worry that by posting, they will be making a fool of themselves , or who are maybe a bit shy about 'getting-it-wrong'. For me and many others that's normal. Starting on the roof today. Sorting out the gables.
  25. The super sharp lines of @Trw144 roof line (See here: has prompted me to make a design detail decision about the flat roof on my dormers. My died in the blood old boy roofer friend says "Got to have 50mm overhang from the face and sides of the dormer. Nothing less". But that's not exactly going to produce a contemporary sharp looking roof is it? My intention is now to use GRP/fibreglass with the minimum depth of edge I can get away with. Which is my first point of annoyance as all the pre-formed edging strips are min 100mm depth. So what's peoples thoughts on the overhang issue? Can it only be less if you have some form of internal gutter to stop run off?