Oz07

If you ever fit rubber threshold under door it would span this also

Thats what I did with foam strip in between for expansion

Sorry missed that thread last week

Wouldn't a wider steel help eliminate the problem?

Could someone please quantify in laymans terms the real world difference of a wall u value between .18 and .2 for me? Single storey dwelling with around 90m2 of walls exc apertures. It's the difference of 25mm on chosen wall make up and I think the gain of 25mm would be better.

What i am saying is one run is inbetween two fixed points. Its obviously harder to fit than a kitchen with 2 free edges. Like I say if the dims are tight you may have to rip some units narrower. For a joiner it's probably a 3/10 difficulty if I have to give it a number?!

Depends how accurate dims are. Could well be ripping some off back of all l/h units

Id leave tiler to prime it. Not your fault if fails then

@joe90 is the airtight osb a specific product? What's the cost? Cheaper than membranes?

wouldn't worry about it @joe90 you've built a nice comfortable house now to enjoy (/garden!). What air tight detail did you do in your loft? Membrane or smart ply?

Dont fancy keeping those around for future DIY then @PeterStarck?

@Vijay surely you are winding him up?!

Talk about the long way around! What about a hole in roof and crane it in!? bought a pair of glass suckers off eBay for a tenner. Used them once then sold them for a tenner to the plumber who fitted the tray with me. There is no way simpler that allows you to manoeuvre tray with trapping fingers

Deffo not designer! Small rads as low output needed. I reckon 60/70 then pipework and sundries for system 2-300?

Got the quote form Wunda. Seems a bit more sensible than others. Also seems more suited to DIY or maybe thats just my interpretation of it. Question of cost now. Around 950 ex VAT for UFH. What would a 8 Radiator system cost with TRV's and pipework? £60 per rad excl labour?

Glass suckers

You not worried about that render sucking up moisture @nod? I'd fit behind. Like you say have structual opening wider and bring blockwork past 100/150mm with returns

Looks like there is an indent where hole should be. Are you sure it doesn't have some sort of flange where joist butts upto it to stop it coming out. It's a bodge but in reality there loads of that goes on up and down the country. See it all the time when stripping stuff back

When I first had oak worktops I hated them too. Too much tippy toeing around if you want them to stay looking pristine, joints have moved slightly despite being biscuited and glued and sanded and oiled all around. Unless you want the rustic look They're a bit needy for my liking. Might have that solid laminate in next place

Why do architects also sometimes prefer showing Back Inlet Gully for basins/sinks rather than internal 4" drain coming up?

Get glass worktop protectors from B&M. Dead cheap, can still see the oak through and I put everything on them.

On a similar note a142 recommended in self compacting concrete if embedding UFH. Why is this? The self compacting usually has plastic type fibres in anyway

You can buy U channel. Recently had a shower tray out of level which a frameless enclosure needed to go on. 6mm gap to nothing with a hung door on the 6mm end pushing it in. Bought some U channel, siliconed it to tray, slid glass in, rock solid

Good suggestion @ProDave I'm guessing thats what a lot here have done? Im not too confident with working out all the maths side though. Could I just pinch the designs i've already been sent. What kind of markup do you think these suppliers are adding?

Recently had a quote for 80m2 single storey ufh system. Most of the suppliers are speccing 6 thermostats! Ridiculous for a system all on one floor with a low response time. Would it even be possible for 1 room to be a different temperature to another? Like 5-10 deg c? Told them to change it to two zones. Bedrooms bathrooms and kitchen lounge dining Also cannot get ufh down to rad prices perhaps you all overpay for rads and pipework?