Oz07

Id have thought 100mm gravel be fine but by the sounds of it you want your surface water drains deeper to mitigate any protection on top of these

Bit strong surely. Don't we all have enough to do? With respect @JSHarris you might have found it easy to prepare all the technical details and sap but for us mortals it's harder than you make it seem! I prefer to send the technicians drawings back to him constantly for revisions. Think I've made it to revision G before now!

It's the rulers which allowed for metal expansion/contraction which my beef is with!

Your place is a tardis isn't it

@Roz how has this progressed? Any pressure tests since installation. As an aside, how come dpm detailing is so finicky then you can go and bang ufh staples in?

Might help if you give location I know it can be done remotely but still

Pleasant welcome @nod?! Hi @Laith J were not all that blunt. Even some Welsh here!

I set out some joinery in a workshop once with a pattern making rule. It was only on something small as the rule was only around 300mm. What a cock up that was. Old boy was a pattern maker in his day, why he bought that rule into a bespoke joinery workshop ill never know.

They do try and bully you into adding water nearly had an argument on last job. Was being pumped as well. I'm sure less reputable firms do it because they know their mix probably isn't up to scratch anyway, so they want you to add water so you sign the disclaimer.

Think it's more to do with skill shortage and lack of training. Maybe too many academics! ?

How do you find the upstand can't see it online

I think 27mm board would be likely to cup. I used 38 on last worktops at 600, did everything by the book 3 coats on all surfaces, biscuit jointed the joints and they still cupped. Urgh...

I've now got opportunity to do this as drawn above. Rather than take the DPM up the outside of the block though I would probably just cut it an inch or so into the cavity then fold down. Wouldn't get damaged on site as these blocks be laid from the outside. Remembering I have a secondary DPM ontop of insulation I can't see what I have to lose apart from making the first layer easier! Any more thoughts? @Brickie? @PeterW? @Declan52

id allow around £8-£9 per m2 for both, should get change. @nod?

Canyon grey oak. Wearing well actually. I refurbed the w/c before renovating and had it exposed to all the elements as sub trades. Got some black bit pain on came off easy enough. No marks that i've noticed but I think the colour and pattern helps with that.

Surely ct1 is ott here. What about all purpose silicone

Got the quickstep lvyn which howdens sell here. Love it. Warm, soft ish just means you need some kind of skirt or upstand in bathroom

Labour only for skimming btw

1500ish at a guess. Tell whoever's quoting it's all brand new board work in newbuild house and ring round for some prices. Would be good to get a reccomendation though

You do see a few roofs like that with the flat tiles perhaps the interlock detail means it's ok who wouldn't want bonded though?

Loved that doc fair play to him

You use more if putting to bottom of insulation. I always sit 25mm ontop of main insulation and have it ripped to whatever the slab thickness is i.e. 4", Tape it to main insulation by time polythene over it doesn't go anywhere

Just searched my email for ebuild 26.5.10 registered

Reasonably priced too I bet

Occupied home with attached garage. Tbf you make a good point it's the easiest most secure thing to move around site to site just a bit of a beacon to the thieves to break into