dpmiller

SDS drill then SDS chisel.

Buy loadsa 16mm fittings and use it for your first fix plumbing too? I thought about it, but the ease of working in 10 and 15mm put me off tbh.

Toasty telly!

Inverse, ST. Bog-standard weather compensation, in other words?

https://jharries.co.uk/product/polypipe-polyplumb-15mm-spare-component-kit/6001?gclid=CjwKCAjwqcKFBhAhEiwAfEr7zR0kBbkjry62mgdN8TdSfHz0D_ehtKUJ9Xx8iHPlmsKVMzCddGeU9xoCOkwQAvD_BwE looks like there's a grey ring missing according to the image here?

If you're installing it yourself why would you pay someone £600 for walking round the house with an anemometer?

nope, don't need handles. Ours is pretty big, a mooring bollard might be of more use...

tiny leak. each time pushes a wee bit of volume out of the pipe til there isn't enough to send the signal

It's possible to get great design at affordable cost with no percentages. You could do worse than spending a few quid to peruse the designs on https://irish-house-plans.ie/ or the like. Shaun did a great job for us...

Is the black plastic over the felt and battens still there? That would create a lot of ponding if so.

Digger with forks on?

I've just had a look at the Worcester Bosch website, and interestingly, according to the ERP label their indoor oil boilers are 54-60Db yet their outdoor one is somehow 0Db. Hmmm...

precisely.

I'd be more concerned about Brinelling of the bearing surfaces off-road than simple loading.

@Dave JonesNo they aren't. Cite your source.

But how do you know when the oil unit has reached setpoint? Short of going and checking if the burner is running? Rads will be putting out noticeable heat well below that. The oil unit is totally uncontrolled, the ASHP will only be putting out it's full 12.5kW *if* the heating load keeps the return temp low and as previous it wants to keep the flow deltaT within limits as well. It's the same house with the same heatload. The oil boiler will heat it more rapidly.

it's 30kw until the flow temperature reaches setpoint.

Every.Time. you turn it on.

ASHPs tend not to have an orifice tube or thermo expansion valve, instead they use a servomotor driven expansion valve. So between variable speed drives and this, the actual load and efficiencies are very configurable.

One point that you didn't note is that ASHPs like to run at a much smaller in-out delta so it's not quite as simple as running at 100% to get to setpoint. They're (internally) continually juggling flow/temp/ gas pressures and temps to try and maximise the production. Just because (say) the HP can deliver 55c water doesn't mean it's aiming to do that when turned on from cold...

gas barrier would be outside wall to outside wall, continuous.

I think tho that it's only HETAS in their ar*e-covering wisdom that "require" Dibt tested. It's no surprise that only the very dearest Euro stoves have it. I got a really snotty response from the local big stove place and they flat out refused to even quote me for a non Dibt unit for purchase at my own risk... Don't need the turnover evidently.

two birds, one stone, perhaps? https://www.firepowerheating.co.uk/thermalux-sheets?adwordspermission=1

Dibt tested stoves are the gold standard. They've self closing doors, the doors are tested to seal after thousands of openings etc. Remember that you do NOT have to use a HETAS installer, your BCO can sign it off. It's not difficult to balance the MVHR to bring the house to positive pressure. Elsewhere in Europe room pressure monitoring is used to guarantee this/ alarm in case of issues as far as I recall from my research a while back.

and copper cylinders are half full of sand.