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About cbk

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  1. What fixings are you using to attach the 100mm EPS panel to the ICF block? Is it just adhesive or is there a mechanical fixing as well?
  2. Has anybody used/reviewed the 4Wall SIPS system? Seems to offer some advantages over regular SIPS > fireproof and allows for concrete intermediate floors. But seems expensive at first glance. Maybe there are savings overall given the quicker build time.
  3. So adding 100mm EPS to a standard block is a cheaper option than choosing a thicker Amvik block?
  4. Which type of block do you decide to use? Also do you plan to use the ThermoRoof option?
  5. I’m planning to use the QIC Type D and Type SKR or ST dry lining trims for a shadow gap effect for skirting and door trim. Does anyubody have any detail drawings for best way to join the skirting trim to the door trim so the junction between the two achieves a clean join?
  6. Apologies if this is a dumb question but if I'm using an ASHP as primary heat source for UHF and DHW does this change the electricity consumption for DHW?
  7. With the big reduction in the feed in tariff it seems like you need to use any power generated to gain any benefit from the PV panels, or add yet more kit like batteries to use at a later time. This is a big investment and with limited winter sunshine, when supply demand is highest, does solar PV still make sense for a typical 4 bed home? Or can I use the money saved in a better way to keep energy demand down perhaps?
  8. ICF Wall thickness is 440 if you go for the woodcrete type to get to 0.12 and 375 for EPS type and this achieves 0.11. Planners have forced me to use multiple finishes externally - Brick, Stone, Timber and render all of which can go directly onto the ICF wall surface so no need to batten etc. which also saves time.
  9. Thanks Guys, lots of very helpful content. To try and fill in some of the gaps this is where I've got to so far: House is about 220m2 on a south facing plot in Shropshire. Lot of glazing on the south side (including a 5.5m x 2.4m slider) but design features a balcony to act as a brise soleil for ground floor and roof overhang to protect first floor from overheating. Architect has confirmed there is less than 2% chance of any overheating. There is a risk this design has overdone the shading so I potentially may lose some of the winter heat upside! Current plan is for EPS raft foundation with a U value of about 0.11, trussed warm roof should be about 0.12 Preferred supplier for Windows has Uw value of 0.79, Slider will be 1.1, entrance doors about 1.0., and there are 6 rooflight that will be 0.1. Design includes MVHR and target is to achieve high levels of air tightness. I'm learning that detail here is the key and probably my weakest link as I plan to use a local builder for much of the work so will be a challenge to ensure attention to detail. So, with all these elements pretty much decided I'm trying to settle the question of just how low do I need to go for the walls. For the ICF option the difference between 0.15 and 0.12 is only about £5k for block supply and I'm assuming labour etc. will be the same for either. The other difference is in wall thickness and I will lose about 75mm which is OK if there is a real benefit in the lower U value, otherwise it would be nice to keep the extra space if the higher value is sufficent. Not yet managed to get to the same level of analysis for the TF options but I guess it will come down to the same trade-off.
  10. Hi guys. I'm at the early design stage for a new build and trying to figure out just how low a U value is good enough. I'm also undecided between a TF build and an ICF build but based on the budget quotes I'm getting, the TF approach is looking a lot more expensive. So I'm wondering is there a simple way to model what my actual heat demand will be using the various build systems to see how much of a difference a 0.15 value makes compared to a 0.12 value. Some time ago I found a thread (and now lost it!) with some spreadsheets that seem to work this out but I'm a bit stuck to know how to adapt to my build. Any help would be appreciated. Also thoughts on the ICF v TF comparison welcome. For context I will be project managing the build but looking to use a local builder and trades for most of the build work.
  11. cbk


    Hi after mamy renovation projects that never quite ended up being our dream house, finally taking the plunge with a new build. Took 5 yrs to find a plot but at last we found a perfect spot in Shropshire and I'm now beginning to realise that a self build offers unlimited choice, so unless I'm very careful I probably won't be able to afford that dream house anyway. Came across this site yesterday and it seems to offer a wealth of really good advice learned the hard way. So I'm hoping to learn from the best and see if I can get a bit closer to that ideal dream house this time.