markc

It all depends on what you are looking for and wanting to pay, plus price is not always relevant to quality. worst bath i ever bought was a very expensive German one (cant remember the name), best shower tray was from Victorian Plumbing, Best basin was from Bathrooms Direct. I would suggest you having a look around and `feeling` the quality of various items that interest you. If you then ask about a specific item im sure members will be able to steer you clear or praise the item.

i would use Evostik Gripfill or good old CT1, gripfill is similar to the product you suggested but i havent used that particular one.

Do you have a pic or quick sketch to show us the detail? as its an extension there are circumstances where you want/need to break the DPM to prevent channelling of water and collecting in cavity etc.

I thought the two walls were part of the same property - like a free standing extension. Im not sure on Regs, but you cant shed water onto someone else. There should not be a gap where water can get down and not run away. The packing in the gap vertically will if anything be making the problem worse by not allowing water to escape or allowing adequate ventilation. I wouldnt want to live with the problems you have, might be worth getting a surveyor in to detail what is found.

Pulins serve two purposes, one to support the roof itself and second to stabilize the trusses

You will be cutting through roots but the hedge will survive and roots grow back

Not really sure what you mean by builing next to exterior wall? Do you mean something else (wall, outbuilding etc) has been put close to your wall? or are you referring to the photo with a gap filled with foam or whatever it is?

How tall is the hedge? and what will happen to the trench after it has been dug?

Well Done Crack in brickwork is through bricks and wider at the top so the wall is moving/falling away. Subsidence/foundation problem. The path/pavings are far too high (close to Damp Proof Course/membrane). path needs lowering and/or a drainage channel cutting around 6inches wide and at least 6 inches deep, filled with stones or gravel to prevent rising water. Flashing near gutter is just poor and water will be blown in, gutter appears to slope wrong way. Yes this building needs looking at.

Thats rather neat excavation. footings always look tiny and cause panic. Its not untill walls go up that a buildings size becomes apparent

Hi, sorry to read about your troubles. Not easy to say without photos but the cracks may or may not be a cause for concern. Mold is definitely a concern and while yes it is often a ventilation and air flow problem, it does need to be addressed. Water with nowhere to go will cause/maintain damp and promote growth. If possible, please upload some pics.

My girlfriend had been watching Homes under the Hammer before she bought her house. Didnt mind that it was cold and damp and needed a new kitchen because she had seen how they all did a full renovation in a few months for less than 10 grand. ... then she started getting quotes and thought she was being ripped off.

Thats going to be one hell of a Bill

Bright copper isnt referring to polished, it is anything clean, stripped cable, copper pipe etc. Burned is cable that has had the insulation taken off in a fire. Cable is higher quality copper but the insulation isnt easy to remove and has to be disposed of so less/tonne than bright. Lead with some paint on etc isnt a problem due to the mass of lead compared to the contaminants . Copper is due to rise dramatically as worldwide demand is increasing.

Rebar/mesh suppliers rarely cross over to beams and visa versa so likely they are buying in the other. I would look to split the rebar/mesh from the beams and shop around. I would be amazed if you didnt save money.

You have to remember that a building built with bricks or blocks has thousands of joints and therefore movement and settlement paths. A concrete wall or structure is basically one big very thin block that will endure tension, compression and bending moments, the rebar is there to stop it cracking and falling apart. Yes the SE will err on the side of caution but they would be your first call if a crack appeared.

Its going to be difficult to seal those and then likely to fail quite quickly. If possible i would replace or over-sheet for piece of mind

Because the soil will be `in the dark` no weeds, no grass, no moss etc. .. never seen a mushroom patch under a floor. nothing growing means no food so no worms etc. come to think of it, ive never seen any fungi or growth of any kind under a floor

The soil would have been whatever was at hand. I recently ripped out a kitchen floor in a victorian house. Under the pitch it was a randon mix of existing soil, stone rubble and what looked like boiler ash - presumably from the nearby railway. No mixing or thought went into it, simply levelled (very roughly and capped with pitch before the tiles

Ott for this job but the best paint stripper (apart from evil commercial stuff) ive come across. We use it for stripping paint from aluminium frames. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252293002518

Hello and welcome

on my jobs they do

You can add as many extra sockets to a radial as you want as long as you feed them of a fused unit after the radial socket ... hope that make sense. I.E if you added a fused spur (13a) you could run extra sockets from that supply ... like plugging in a 4 /4/10way extension lead. You cant just duplicate the first one tho.

Changing the internal and external lights is no problem, but you cannot add extra sockets to the 16a spur

Most of them were returned for a refund or thrown in the bin shortly after purchase and use. No need for a poker for this job, just tap the mould with a hammer etc. The top return and drip groove strip will cause air to be trapped at the top, drill a series of holes around the top flange to allow the mix to reach the soffit of the mould.