markc

A priced job is just that. Had it taken the 3 men (are you allowed to say that now?) 10 days would you be wanting to pay them extra? The over measurement is also a tricky one, if they did it, you could have checked it.

You could have done it in one go, but likely to sag. A day or so is more than enough time for the infil. Cement will last indefinitely as long as it doesnt get damp, Roll down the top of the bag to expell the air and it will last weeks/months

Single or multiple bolts in timber connections comes down to the loads being imposed. Unlikely the loads will be anywhere close to the shear strength of the bolts so then its down to timber integrity. Large bolted trusses are often single bolt connections allow movement and prevent splitting timbers due to tortional loads.

Yes some laminates are better than others, but generally the board/timber underneath is of very similar quality. Cheap hinges and fittings let a lot of kitchens / windows and doors down. Just about any production facility and cut boards accurately so fit is rarely a problem. Exchange the nasty fittings for decent quality ones and the doors will stay level and even etc. I have a lot of experience with plant and machinery and i find German stuff to be mediocre at best and garbage in some cases, but they are dressed up to look good and most people just believe the hype and never look underneath.

You learn something everyday. installed loads of syphonic gutters and never made the connection with hoppers, and never thought about the usefulness of shoes

You could remove the whole frame, turn it around and refit. or depending on the frame detail, leave the frame alone (fill the rebates and holes left by the lock/closer etc. and fit the door to the other side. ... this is so much easier to do than describe.

@Moonshine makes a very good point, sound management can be very complex. I remember being an engineer on Hammersmith Underground Station Rebuild and complaints started regarding trains getting louder. Turned out our sound deadening Glass was bouncing the noise off of the adjascent building making it worse than before

No reason why not, changing it around is pretty straightforward

I have a cheap heating mat from Ebay, think its the one mentioned earlier. Connected to a therostat and sensor buried in the tile cement. I never turn it off, stays on 24/7 at 22 degrees.

Got to agree with the above, if you want to experience pure bliss, watch a cat sprawl out on heated tiles, also feels really nice under foot

Looks like there is quite a lot of material lost. I would screw a doubler timber along side extending well past the damaged area

Dowels are used where slabs cannot be connected (expansion joints, crack inducers etc). they simply allow the slabs to move independently while preventing them from becoming uneven/mis-aligned. Drill holes in the shuttering at the required locations and insert the dowels through the holes with approx 50% sticking out. If sleeves are specified, these are then slid onto the exposed ends prior to the next pour

Re using materials is never a bad thing unless its more trouble and work than its worth. Broken concrete can make good hardcore if broken down into small enough pieces (compacting hardcore is basically getting the pieces to lodge together tightly, large pieces do not fit together well and leave large air pockets) couls always be used as sub base under a drive etc.

Ahhh, 75-80mm does sound like there should be a packer or infill piece. over say 7 feet i would count on upto 25mm of shrink and settlement if nipped down tight during fitting

Stacked horizontal logs will shrink and settle down over time.Windows need a gap at the top (fill with compressible foam etc). to prevent the windows becoming fully load bearing

Thats only for ventilation, not enough for kitchen extraction

Gimmicky and unnecessary, wether chains or wire ropes to anchor down, Dig a hole, wrap the chain or rope around a piece of tube/bar/scaff pole or even a brick or stone (be careful it wont slip off) bury it and compact the grount. this method has been used for centuries for ground anchoring

30 years - i would leave it

I like how they mention £70 per month - as if it was a high end policy

hello and welcome

Ah, i almost asked if they were 4x2`s but thought it must be camera angle. If the extension has been there a long time then its unlikely to get worse, the purlins will have distorted to the point where they stabilize the compression and tension loads. The existing cannot move due to the gable wall so i wouldn't have a problem with it.

Get on with it ... I have the money, the know how and the ability to build but can i hell as find a suitable plot

The pulins look rather small for that span

Why would you want to go less? it will be like cooking in a pizza over

42 tubes of it