markc

I would say thats a pretty fair report. Time to re open the steel mills, chemical plants etc and start making the stuff we need again.

Pallet truck on a smooth concrete floor is fine, rough concrete, hardcore or even trackway and you have no chance

I was thinking the same as it seems only logical reason but you would think the plumber would have checked before or while replacing parts.

Im wondering wether the problem could be the shy lights and where they are putting water. Left had one will be taking a big hit from the down pipe. Im struggling to see any detail on the pics to see just whats going on arounf the skylights.

Working around standard sizes for a new build makes sense, but as you are converting, changing the hole sizes can be a pain and look terrible, thats unless you are intending making them much bigger anyway in which case head for standard sizes where possible.

if you are buying windows its the hole size, let them know it is the opening size and they will deduct an appropriate amount for fitting room.

Style is personal choice, but even within brands some items are good, very good or total rubbish ... or just a pain to fit etc. If for instance you wanted a corner bath and asked about a particular brand or model then a good chance someone will be able to give you some pointers.

It all depends on what you are looking for and wanting to pay, plus price is not always relevant to quality. worst bath i ever bought was a very expensive German one (cant remember the name), best shower tray was from Victorian Plumbing, Best basin was from Bathrooms Direct. I would suggest you having a look around and `feeling` the quality of various items that interest you. If you then ask about a specific item im sure members will be able to steer you clear or praise the item.

i would use Evostik Gripfill or good old CT1, gripfill is similar to the product you suggested but i havent used that particular one.

Do you have a pic or quick sketch to show us the detail? as its an extension there are circumstances where you want/need to break the DPM to prevent channelling of water and collecting in cavity etc.

I thought the two walls were part of the same property - like a free standing extension. Im not sure on Regs, but you cant shed water onto someone else. There should not be a gap where water can get down and not run away. The packing in the gap vertically will if anything be making the problem worse by not allowing water to escape or allowing adequate ventilation. I wouldnt want to live with the problems you have, might be worth getting a surveyor in to detail what is found.

Pulins serve two purposes, one to support the roof itself and second to stabilize the trusses

You will be cutting through roots but the hedge will survive and roots grow back

Not really sure what you mean by builing next to exterior wall? Do you mean something else (wall, outbuilding etc) has been put close to your wall? or are you referring to the photo with a gap filled with foam or whatever it is?

How tall is the hedge? and what will happen to the trench after it has been dug?

Well Done Crack in brickwork is through bricks and wider at the top so the wall is moving/falling away. Subsidence/foundation problem. The path/pavings are far too high (close to Damp Proof Course/membrane). path needs lowering and/or a drainage channel cutting around 6inches wide and at least 6 inches deep, filled with stones or gravel to prevent rising water. Flashing near gutter is just poor and water will be blown in, gutter appears to slope wrong way. Yes this building needs looking at.

Thats rather neat excavation. footings always look tiny and cause panic. Its not untill walls go up that a buildings size becomes apparent

Hi, sorry to read about your troubles. Not easy to say without photos but the cracks may or may not be a cause for concern. Mold is definitely a concern and while yes it is often a ventilation and air flow problem, it does need to be addressed. Water with nowhere to go will cause/maintain damp and promote growth. If possible, please upload some pics.

My girlfriend had been watching Homes under the Hammer before she bought her house. Didnt mind that it was cold and damp and needed a new kitchen because she had seen how they all did a full renovation in a few months for less than 10 grand. ... then she started getting quotes and thought she was being ripped off.

Thats going to be one hell of a Bill

Bright copper isnt referring to polished, it is anything clean, stripped cable, copper pipe etc. Burned is cable that has had the insulation taken off in a fire. Cable is higher quality copper but the insulation isnt easy to remove and has to be disposed of so less/tonne than bright. Lead with some paint on etc isnt a problem due to the mass of lead compared to the contaminants . Copper is due to rise dramatically as worldwide demand is increasing.

Rebar/mesh suppliers rarely cross over to beams and visa versa so likely they are buying in the other. I would look to split the rebar/mesh from the beams and shop around. I would be amazed if you didnt save money.

You have to remember that a building built with bricks or blocks has thousands of joints and therefore movement and settlement paths. A concrete wall or structure is basically one big very thin block that will endure tension, compression and bending moments, the rebar is there to stop it cracking and falling apart. Yes the SE will err on the side of caution but they would be your first call if a crack appeared.

Its going to be difficult to seal those and then likely to fail quite quickly. If possible i would replace or over-sheet for piece of mind

Because the soil will be `in the dark` no weeds, no grass, no moss etc. .. never seen a mushroom patch under a floor. nothing growing means no food so no worms etc. come to think of it, ive never seen any fungi or growth of any kind under a floor