markc

120 will be ok, you dont want deep scratches to add to the marks to sand out. Use a small block and decent pressure, if it disappears easily then great, if not try a bit of oil and see how it dries. as you are using clear oil the multiply layers wont make much difference to the tone.

pull the ply off, put it back square and put the ply back

Method statements can be very simple, just write briefly how the work will be done, by hand or machine? is there any possibility of debris falling onto pavements, roads etc. working at height? damage to services? access for emergency vehicles if needed? first aider? etc etc. If you give more info on what the works are and then your outline MS we can take a look and give pointers

as they are stains you will need to take some material away to blur the edges. The oil will show up loads of colour differences so patches are to be expected but the ones pictured jump out.

always sand before treating

Good morning and welcome, The `support` for self build is a lot of hype and very little to none existent actual help. Im in yorkshire and i keep badgering local councils regarding self build plots just to be told to look at estate agents and property websites.

Frosting is ok but as its toughened you have to be careful with the edges. at 8mm it will grind/sand down pretty quickly with a diamond plate

In a manner of speaking es, but to make things easier/simpler/cheaper - build the box structure as a unit sitting on the walls, use either joist hangers or screw straight through as you have no access problems. Then when its all fixed and levelled (if necessary) use straps to secure the whole thing down to the walls

Is it toughened? if not then you can `sand` it down with a diamond sharpener. or rebate the opening it has to go into

@Joe87 yes thats the idea.. Turn the whole roof into a box structure

Im impressed ... and somewhat envious, secluded plot and canal frontage

If you are using 9x2 joists, I would use the same as a front and rear beam with joist hangers. ( as opposed to sitting the joists onto a wall plate) You wouldnt need the post as the corner would be supported by the front member (sitting on the front wall) and the end joist (sitting on the end wall)

MyGF has a small under sink electric water heater and it’s fantastic, I reckon it holds about 5 litres and perfect when cooking and hand washing

Pre sealing is not a good idea for storage, you don’t want to seal the back where the adhesive will be and if you seal the top and edges but not the bottom them water uptake will be different and the tiles can cup. as nod says, remove any shrink wrap/polythene to prevent sweating and allow air circulation, a board over the top is fine. Dust won’t hurt them.

The one above is ideal, the other thing you need to consider is stability - does it turn a corner at the ends? will it be subject to high wind loads? likelihood of crowds or groups of people leaning on it? 20m and 2m high is a big surface to catch wind and will need something to stop it falling over as one big slab

No problem with using without the plate, finger or small stick to trigger the flush

I cant see anything wrong with them, as mentioned previously they are wood and wood moves. Once the noggins and floor are fixed it will all act as one unit instead of individual components.

Reasonably straight with a struts accurately positioned and squeezed in tight to form good connections. i took it that some of the struts were either not positioned correctly or pressed home.

production manager said they were ok and that it's really difficult to get things perfect on their machine. Omg? the struts are either pressed in by a giant hydraulic G Clamp that swings around on a balanced beam, or they are tacked in place with a hammer and then the joist run through a big roller that squeezes them in. I would aim to start in the middle, use temporary braces to get the middle straight and held in place, then work outwards. Ideally, leave the braces in until you have to remove them to lay the floor.

Scribe and fold (similar to plaster board) for cutting, slaters knife/hatchet for trimming and shaping. Or you could use a grinder and diamond disc but the dust is annoying

In that case i wouldn't worry about thermal bridging - although there is a cavity it will have loads of mortar and other stuff creating bridges. Nothing to stop you pulling down the plasterboard or even leaving it in place and adding insulation on the inside. Are the three rooms built as habitable? fire escape etc?

I think its time to make a stand, do you know where they are based? go see them, knock on the door and sort it out

How old is the house?

A pozi joist, truss, spine beam etc if supported on its bottom cord without restraint at the top will move and twist a bit. Nothing to worry about as the noggins will (should) put everything back straight. We soon found out that pozi joist packs need to be left banded or stacked flat if not being fitted straight away or the packs would decide to fall over if left unrestrained as the joists moved and twisted.

No need to sand - this was done on flat roofs to toughen up the surface and prevent stuff sticking to it .... birds feet etc.