markc

Contact glassandstainless.com. they will point you in the right direction

Some (many new build sites) will say trusses between gable walls do not need diagonal bracing, but i have always put it in regardless

Whats going on top of the trusses? you may not need (permanent) diagonal bracing.

+1 to @PeterW reply. the beam would behave perfectly well with a point support at the very ends. As the loads are very low (no structure or floors above) then the padstones/bearing are also very lightly loaded.

Good afternoon and welcome

We had exactly the same while building Lowry Centre in Manchester, big odd shaped panes and one of our guys was spotted throwing sparks at the glass .... nightmare!

Good morning and welcome to the forum, im going to say you will not get permission to do this, but its always worth a try

Pack wherever the plate could/would deform under load. I.E under bearing / connection points,

Good afternoon and welcome, looks like an interesting project.

Letting cold air in forces the stale air into the house, install an extractor in their room, pulls warm air from the house and ejects the hot stale air.

That should be a pretty tough wall, as above give the mortar time to go off and bring the level up slowly and evenly - assume you are using a pump so work your way around and bring level up approx 1 foot at a time, this means you can be less harsh with the poking.

Difficult one as there are a lot of variables, number and type of ties, mortar mix etc. but i would be working on around 1m per pour with unsupported walls

What supply will you be connecting it to? direct in CU? what size breaker/Fuse on supply?

Shouldn't affect porcelain as they will be glazed

Agree with Nick

Power alarm as a spur from whatever circuit your fridge/freezer is on, then if power fails to the fridge the alarm will let you know.

Parge coat is a great way to have a go or start to learn plastering, can be brushed or roller but quicker and more fun to use a float

Very little heat goes down through the legs of a wood burner, i would say it broke due to load rather than heat. when someone left a pile of clothes on my bathroom floor the porcelain tile heated up so much (electric UFH) it curved up at the edges but still didnt break

Very old uneven wall under the plasterboard so i inserted a plywood `plug` to give the screw shanks something to bear on otherwise the screws would have bent and torn down through the PB

It wont clog up, give it a go. Secret is to hold the grinder steady (no need to squeeze it or fear it) and let it glide through the material at its own pace. Takes a bit of getting used to but you will wonder how you ever got on without one.

@zoothorn yes diamond blades are flat, they will not sit in the middle guard and thats ok .

20kgs is very light as rads go, i have one in my kitchen that weights around 80kgs full and it is hanging on 4no 10 screws. plate gauge really doesnt matter as you are nowhere near the capacity of steel in shear.

i reckon that is a surface water rodding point, still seems an odd location tho

With pozi joists the top and bottom cord are deep enough to accommodate decent length screws so you shouldn't break through into the voids

Couldnt agree more, ive been involved with some major building projects where the waste angered me ... Truck loads of bricks being unloaded from the trucks straight into skips because of a design change or over ordering. and now involved with Railways where many projects are cost plus (to save money) but the contractors throw loads of unnecessary plant, materials and equipment plus labour on site because they will get paid for it plus a mark up.