markc

Pretty much yes ... also cures colds, flu`s does the dishes and picks the kids up from school

Yes the tiler should have a good idea, just needs to be a tough but remains elastic construction adhesive.

what are you using as a floor finish? It would look so much neater if the floor finish continued over the EPS to door

You could leave the membrane in place, secure the felt by wrapping over the edges and adhesive at the joint/lap over. A few nails wont hurt to prevent flapping and tearing in the wind (sounds like a line from a song).

At 4ft or 1.2 metres it would be below the hedge level.

Its just so difficult to estimate, even more so at the moment. Factors to consider are access for plant/digger etc, removal/disposal of excavated material, cost of materials, shortage of labour etc etc. Even the big contractors are offering sil;ly money to trades people to attract them to site (thats if they can get enough materials). Big shortages of materials across Europe due to demand so costing is a nightmare.

It is! Basic materials, Timber and construction Plant is like rocking Horse poo right across Europe, at the moment. We have suppliers (Plant) in Europe asking if they can buy machines back and we could fill the trucks with any building materials available.

The ICF and concrete core will not be waterproof, but i would still be looking at waterproofing the structure before back filling.

As they are embedded in concrete i would be using good quality stainless ties. The interface between concrete and blocks is a prime corrosion point. Re-bar is ok unprotected because it is fully encased in concrete at all times. The ties will still be holding the inner and outer block work together long after the concrete has set.

It all depends on what you are looking for, there is no perfect one-stop-shop for anything really. The big suppliers lure you in with great prices on some stuff and then get their magin back on other - hence using different suppliers

Got to agree with the above, as a new build, why go for secondary water management instead of building waterproof in the first pl;ace. Then the toilet could go through a maceration pump and save a lot of work

I dont know of any part of the regs specifically requiring a switch (other than fixed appliances like hobs etc which must have a means of isolation). Pulling the plug serves as an isolation for portable appliances but a faulty appliance can create a pretty decent arc on disconnect and its not pleasant when its behind the plug you are pulling

yes, friends and customers have an old well established plant hire company, also sells small tools etc and they have had their best year since they started

Limited amount of goods coming out of china still, plus demand is at an all time high. Timber still in short supply due to the mills being closed when covid hit and they thought demand would slump .... but it went the opposite way. Copper price is on the increase as demand climbs

The pivots shown above would be ok if the door is fairly light. I would forget the support wheel and get a local engineering place to make up a couple of pivots with bearings in them. Or you could use self aligning flange mounted bearings and stub shafts top and bottom. Several possibilities dependant upon door weight and what you have to play with structure and space wise top and bottom

morning and nope, personal choice, although underground brown is often used because it resembles clay pipes so easier to distinguish from ducts

yes! you will definitely thank yourself for putting them in during construction

You will need diamond disks anyway to grind a large flat surface

I cant see any reason as the roof pitch will be steep and water should fall off without any problem

Assuming the tiles will be fairly large format then you need a good solid slab that will not move. Build up similar to a house footing but you dont need the insulation. Plenty of well compacted stone/hardcore, blind if not crusher run, concrete with starter bars into the existing slab to prevent movement at the door threshold

The pipe the sensor is in is burried in the slab, the tube and air in it will be at the same temp as the slab. sensor doesnt have to be in contact with the concrete or screed

If a sensor fails you pull it out of the tube and slide in a replacement.

On a very big project then a QS would be a worthwhile expense but on an extension and £120K ish then i would say no. Im sure you can list all the materials and items needed in a few hours and make a decent guess at what it will cost. A QS comes into their own when there are big/many changes to a project. If you are unsure of a few things, ask on here

Unless you manage to get the sand cement coat to a polished finish then plaster will stick ok.

Frame is possibly pitch pine, try white spirit, or it is possible the primer was shellac based in which case only methalated spirits will dissolve it