rh2205

Members
  • Content Count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About rh2205

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Oh great! @PeterStarck 200mm is that just all you had or would it have been possible to go thicker? We really have no clue how much it will make when crushed & have not counted up the garden slabs on top but know there must be a at least 40sqm of the stuff. We were going to load the crusher manually and eventually shift the patio material around manually too as young and stupid, or do you really need a mini digger for this exercise to get the most out of the crusher hire? We’d of course hire a plate compactor as the manual compactor in our shed will not be sufficient for this job ! Also got an existing conservatory concrete slab we were going to leave in situ & bring all the other levels up around, but there’s still another 45sqm which needs building up. Maybe another one of our ill thought out ideas 😁
  2. We have some quite large areas of house to demolish, we currently have a drop between the back of the property & existing ground levels (an extreme renovation with only a few walls left & the slab) wondering whether we agree with the builder to knock off some of the waste disposal costs if we keep the concrete tiles approx 200sqm and bricks approx 40sqm (this is the area these materials currently cover) to crush on site ourselves to help raise the levels for a patio out the back by 400mm. Is this a stupid idea? Can we raise levels only with this material by that much assuming it’s enough or can it still only be used as a standard thickness mot. We are not builders so pretty clueless but will need to do the patio ourselves slowly to save money as it’s too expensive to get a builder for the patio and it isn't time critical like the house. The garden is large and has a load of ugly standard concrete slabs laid badly all over the place so figured we could add them into the mix for crushing too. Thanks for any ideas in advance!
  3. Thanks for this feedback. This seems to mimic what our architect was saying mostly sending out the drawings as small builders price in different ways and they won’t read a massive lift of items. He thinks if we pick out all specific items for all finishing details and spec the plumbing ourselves rather than going on the advice of the builders heating engineer we might find prices come in high or if the installation doesn’t work it will be on us as we requested it! As you say Nod it seems the usual route for small builders is to go through the finer details with one or two of the most competitive/favourite responses and go from there to agree all the details before signing a contract.
  4. Hi all, We are looking to prepare documents for tender of a renovation job roughly in the 150k territory. We are struggling to know where to start we have our building regs drawings, structural plans & electrical plans but these do not have detailed fitting information. Struggling to know how to go about the documentation for the tender. We don’t want to over complicate things with lots of paperwork & mean we get less tender responses. We are also hoping to break it down into two parts with wind and weather tight being the first price and the rest in the second part (In case it’s too high we subcontract rest). Plus we do not have detailed information on the plumbing side of things yet other than where radiators are going. If anyone has any examples they can share with us that would be really helpful. I have experience of using JCT contracts but it’s mostly always been in the context of a fully spec’d job and commercial not domestic. We don’t want to delay things by picking out every single product now so thinking some allowances route will be needed but at the same time we are working with the 5% vat renovation so there ‘could’ be a cost saving if the contractor buys these products for us. This would obviously be a much simpler process if we just said client to source x and contractor to allow for fitting costs. Still not sure having a contract for a job is really a good thing even though I keep getting told it’s the sensible thing. I’ve seen unforeseen extras overpriced in so many ‘main contractor’ contracts but once you have a main contractor arrangement there’s only so long you can disagree for if you want to keep things moving. Obviously we are feeling very apprehensive on this next stage as it’s a major refurb with a new floor so we’ll be an easy target for unforeseen extras. Any guidance and tender templates /examples much appreciated so that we hopefully don’t end up in too big a pickle later down the line!
  5. We have a 15% VAT reduction empty home on supply and install so that does offer some savings so the decision to demolish is more grey but it remains to be seen whether contractors will just try and absorb any savings in their profit and there will be limited scope for DIY savings as it is specifically contractor supply and install only (not that we really have much time for DIY with family and working full time but people on this forum have made that work). Also with the remodelling being so extensive with so much structural work its touch and go as to whether we really can even project manage all the trades as a retrofit does seem more complicated on research to date which means we could end up with a principal contractor and some very high sqm costs...
  6. We were planning on underfloor heating and then we started looking up costs for reinstatement, materials, labour etc as its about 117sqm of existing slab and started thinking it might be a bad idea... We might have more news on what we find at the weekend as we're hoping to prize up the bizarre floor tanking system put in the large retrofitted mobility access wet room which will leave a big hole and hopefully some clues at the edges.. We are still intending to put in a planning application for replacement, not sure it that will really help with the objective of saving money but it might just mean things are much less risky albeit will probably take longer but a better house at the end. Either way we need a fall back so doing what we can ourselves now as bungalow needs stripping and possibly even roof off to get rid of the maze of load bearing walls even if we have to retain it. We have certainly learned our lesson on what not to buy and we haven't even really started!
  7. Thanks for info yes tiles are gone came up whole. We had considered initially digging up the entire floor for insulation & heating purposes but it sounds very costly having to reinstate everything like dpm, concrete, screed, hardcore. I was reading that there possibly isn’t a DPM layer anyway and the tiles and bitumen stuff might be all that was used along with 100mm concrete groundbearing slab (pretty cheap 1960 council construction). I wasn’t sure if the waste from the concrete would still be considered hazardous and the process of digging up floor might make the trace asbestos airborne. Maybe we’re overthinking it and with all the new plumbing it’s going to make very little difference how much of the floor is removed?
  8. Great thanks for info. We need to dig out at least some of the concrete floor for new soil pipe and heating pipe work etc so not clear on what this means for asbestos concerns as sealing it won’t solve the whole problem. If we get a asbestos survey will they want to test this part of the property even though black glue is basically ingrained into the concrete floor?
  9. This is the floor, tiles are gone, concrete below
  10. Just wondering whether there is anyone on here with experience of renovating a 1960s bungalow either extensively (floors/ceilings removed) or full demolition. There were some asbestos vinyl tiles and we are trying to work out whether the black bitumen stuff is likely to trigger specialist removal requirements too? There hasn’t been any obvious panels or other surprises either in loft or garage so far and we’re keep our fingers crossed about the fascias as they look fairly recent...
  11. Sorry for the dodgy images I couldn't get the cropped ones to save so had to make do with what would work....
  12. We are still exploring the 3 potentially financially crippling routes of roof lift by 1m + remodel, demolishment + rebuild, or extension and remodel (garden is pretty big). We've had the concept back from the architect on the roof lift and my gut says that removing the original gable end wall running through the open plan living area (for background bungalow has already been extended out to the right on plan from existing gable hence why it's still present) will require excessive costs to engineer a solution, that's not to mention the massive windows shown in the open plan living area further complicating this engineering feat. For info we have a VAT reduction due to it being empty down to 5% but this doesn't include DIY as there is no reclaim method so other than doing some finishing the bulk of the work in this option will get done by a series of contracts or one main contractor and there is probably not much logic sourcing our own materials for these contract(s). Does this look completely pie in the sky for our original budget of 200k? I just can't imagine what a structural engineer would think of this current plan!!!! Now rationally you ditch the open plan space and have a separate kitchen dining area in the far right side to maintain some of the existing walls including that internal gable but with 4 dormers and some shrunk kitchen diner windows I still have a sinking feeling about the cost. Anyone with any experience of roof lifts and/or difficult remodels, is this concept fantasy within our price bracket even with retaining extra walls and smaller patio doors to get anywhere near our original 200k budget or is this type of work so extensive that there really will be little difference in cost to rebuild? Albeit rebuild will no doubt come with much more extended planning process and therefore add time as we were hoping to be in by September 2020 at the latest. For info bungalow is 117sqm +conservatory + double garage at the moment so demolishment for replacement won't be a bargain even with us doing as much as possible, haven't got round to estimating the likely tonnage of waste it might produce yet but I will and I suspect it will be more than I think.
  13. I've been reading a number of really useful historic forum pages these last couple of weeks to try and get a bit more idea on high level budgets and per/m cost etc. As expected there is a big variation in cost between those who have done a lot of labour themselves vs those which contract it all out, however what I am after is a bit more understanding from those who have done a lot of labour themselves approximately how much time did you spend on it each week on average? I notice several regular forum users have kindly provided some very detailed costs but what I am not quite sure is how many of their own hours this required to keep those costs low - has anyone got a record of their own time spent and over what period of time if they had limited time did they have to spend working on their self build against the size of the property itself. Also are there any examples of people who have managed to use a lot of their own labour around a full time job and family commitments or is this a completely unrealistic approach given we are fully expecting to learn most things as we go rather than already having some degree of competence! Whilst we are willing to work hard I guess we are trying to make sure we're not making plans for something that is physically impossible with the number of hours in a day and we are struggling to pragmatically do a reality check given this is all new to us. When we are looking at this approach we are assuming the position of working on it once structure is weathertight and that we will have to get people in to do some components of the work - similar to the approach JSHarris talks about in relation to the degree of DIY undertaken personally.