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About rh2205

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  1. Welcome we are also Cambridge way. We know some people down the road who’ve been at it for 7 years now and still use a ladder to get upstairs, glad we entered their house before we started to understand they weren’t joking. Best advice the local structural engineer and neighbours gave us, go to a main contractor in this area and keep the work you do to a minimum unless you can rent for an unlimited time, earn rubbish money so working on it effectively pays or don’t mind a building site, they weren’t wrong. We found extension and remodel much harder to do without the main contractor as you can’t just buy in the structure like a new build (eg go to a timber frame company). Local construction is booming, and refurb is just more complicated all round, but we did initially try to get trades lined up over 6 months and our experience was difficult to say the least. It was a whole new floor and remodel totalling 220sqm so we were frustrated no builder would even do the main structural and extension part of the job. Our fall back was to hand it all over to someone bar some small bits as time is also money as they say, sure we will be in within 9 months like our builder promised so we are happy with our decision though it was not as planned. Fortunately the quality of the work has been good and reasonably priced, don’t think we’d of done it cheaper subcontracting going on what prices we did get early days (unless we’d done the work ourselves) and I’m certain it would of added a lot longer on timescales. Hopefully you are in it for the long haul and time is not your limiting factor. It’s worth saying even with this route we have done bits ourselves, demolished 10 walls, stripped house, pulled ceilings down, we are improving the air tightness ourselves sealing everything, installed the log burner and no doubt there will be other little bits so we probably still average 2 days a week on site between us just doing evenings and weekend mornings. Then the rest of weekend is for working out what’s happening next and making sure we are happy with the details. But this is not a stressful process and it’s good to see things happening quickly given there’s more man power. Certainly we have been shocked by just how much resource has been needed for this size property though if you’ve got a simple symmetric box it will be easier so good luck with the project 🙂
  2. I am surprised by the variability in size we have had a 13kw & 14kw quoted, the 13kw said our calculation came in at 7.5kw in the software but we have very high sloping ceilings, a lot of unheated dead eaves cupboard within insulation envelope & it’s a refurb so felt there was more uncertainty than your average house I was happy there was a buffer given I was also concerned it would be sized too small. Our old EPC is useless as the house is double the size now. We’ll be using radiators at 45C throughout approx 200sqm. I contacted 5 other companies on top of the two others and really have given up with getting a third quote so will just take a stab at the grant using cheapest quote, to be fair I got one quote before the grant was even announced and before COVID times and it was in line with this so didn’t feel 11.5k was extortion for area even though it seems like it is.. one of the companies refused to quote using the grant scheme even though they had all the certs, would still do RHI installs, maybe they had the right idea!
  3. This all sounds a bit crap then! Ours includes 300l tank, buffer tank, full commissioning, concrete base etc. We are in Cambridge & most stuff is a rip off so I’m not expecting any better elsewhere even if someone was interested in pricing for it which most aren’t as there’s too much commercial green building work nearby. @joth be interested to know your installer as they might travel our way!! But maybe not at that price.. would rather be left with a cheaper install if this won’t pay out though!
  4. The installer had to resend the quote yesterday as soon as I mentioned we wanted to apply ASAP for the grant, it’s a pretty lengthy detailed breakdown so I am wondering whether they are already dealing with these issues on other submissions, couldn’t quite figure out how it differed from the first quote letter as it looked pretty similar but they said we’d need to use this one for the application! Installers must also be getting irritated as they said it was a much more difficult submission than RHI which sounds bad enough 🤯
  5. @joth what price did you have? We are due to submit one today for a 13kw heat pump at 11.5k including VAT this was the cheapest quote we could find only two firms would even get back to us.. Just wondering if we should also prepare to be stuffed given application is only now going in!
  6. We are having EWI with render installed, the patio doors are therefore moving right to the front face of the existing brickwork rather than a normal 20-30mm set back from brick work (with the new 100mm insulation providing the setback). The approved window installer is now recommending we basically have a sill with pretty much no overhang as the EWI does not extend below as we are having an internal (but not external) flush threshold pretty much at dpc level (though we’d don’t really have a dpc as old house) so they don’t think there will be anything to rest the aluminium sill onto properly, the builder initially talked about using a steel angle or similar to help support the sill but now no one sounds keen on doing this as they think it will be too flimsy or look really obvious and crap. Could it lead to problems to not have any proper sill overhang and if so how can we get around this so both the builder and window installer are happy with a solution to support the sill on? Worth mentioning the patio doors themselves are big and thus the deadload of the door itself will rest on the brickwork still so this is just a question of how to get the sill itself to be supported properly without having any setback below as the EWI won’t continue underneath.
  7. Wouldn’t even stress you wouldn’t be the first just don’t say anything, it’s very unlikely to be spotted unless you have an immediate reference point next door, and let’s be honest there’s probably quite a few different points on most plots that ground level could be measured from for a small discrepancy! Best now you erase from your mind this conversation was ever had with the builder or partner to never be spoken about ever again.
  8. We had a wall almost exactly like this, it didn’t change in 8 years, I reckon it will look almost the same in another 10 years. Never bothered repointing it. It was just on rubbish footings for clay ground conditions aka not very well built. It was more than adequate & I didn’t lose sleep over it certainly wouldn’t of entertained repairs because it would of been a waste of time & money unless I’d considered rebuilding it from scratch. We had some 6ft hedges next to the wall too, the same hedge ran along front of our house same distance away from it and the house was fine.
  9. Didn’t even know you could retrofit a passiv slab? Doesn’t sound cost effective. I know you can make a existing house passiv using other measures but if you’ve dug that much of it up you might as well start again!
  10. You need XPS below DPC, no one wants to install this stuff below DPC. It is a do it yourself job if keen around here, I visited some open ecohouses last summer which have just done it themselves given they also couldn't find any installers either. Its the last of the jobs and we plan to do it in stages. 30mm is usually recommended, there is a best practice guide from INCA and there you can have a 30-40mm drip detail added to achieve that recommendation, this is not the preferred option though and as such it is better to just keep your EWI 30mm away from the fascias if you've got enough depth anyway or extend the roof line.
  11. We also have CWI on our 1960s bungalow, we are adding EWI albeit only 90mm as was genuinely concerned about shadowing as the low soffits had an affect on the space and I didn’t want to recreate the problem given those soffits have now disappeared above a new floor. Probably depends on your sunlight orientation to the main living spaces could be a benefit south facing! I am all ears on how to improve airtightness internally on an existing masonry structure though? As much as we try to come up with a solution it all seems pointless when the walls get chased for radiators to keep them away from the uninsulated concrete floor (we are EWI’ing below DPC).
  12. £400 to cancel the order from the merchants as already loaded (it was quite a big order) any saving in materials worked out about the same in labour. Turns out VCL was specified in one of the cross sections I’d not looked at so now that will be going on albeit after all the insulation. Our light scheme is a basic single pendant arrangement. Any recommendations for sealant around the cables given we aren’t going to redo the electrics now? Just got to go in at the weekend and tape everything for peace of mind that this sleepless night over some insulation was worth it!
  13. @Russell griffiths Thanks your input has been invaluable. It does mention a surge of PIR orders on insulation hub website so as much as maybe orders can be fulfilled in some way but not with the same product so I do believe what he is saying is true and probably depends on what merchant he is speaking to, we do not have an architect so effectively you could say he is also the PM for it and therefore it would be very time intensive for him to shop around considering he does also do physical work on the site and manages a few multi skilled employees under his set up also along with the subcontractors. Seems he can maybe say that extra man hours cost to cut double the stuff and man hours are expensive in this part of the country so I am still not sure whether it will be cheaper in our case. Is there any effective solution to work around the cables as we definitely don't want to undo this part as the wiring that has already been done over a pretty large roof? Not looking for perfection but something than goes a bit better than what is currently being done especially if it does transpire the insulated plasterboard order has gone in. Unfortunately this is pretty much an all in contract so it gets a bit messy when you try and change things unless you are the one to physically do the changes which is what we were hoping for in this case - for instance us going in and fixing on a VCL on the internal roof or taping joints before plasterboard goes up would be quite a clean way of rectifying the matter if that makes sense.
  14. If it transpires we can get PIR boards without great difficulty and builder hasn’t ordered the insulated plasterboard then will the cables improve impossible to work with without resulting in damp patches? Obviously this may not be able to be undone in terms of ordered materials but they definitely haven’t arrived on site yet. Also not sure what thickness we will need as the Insulated plasterboard was 42.5mm thick k118 stuff. Always on the back foot of everything! I am also certain none of the external PIR wall boards were taped🤦‍♀️. But this layer is a lot less unbroken anyway and there’s two membranes so I am kinda hoping for the best as it’s a slightly better insulation arrangement.
  15. @Russell griffithsIt’s too late, unless we want to pay for the electrician again 😩. Is this the only alternative for resolving? I think I spoke to the builder last week. It is not easy getting hold of materials at the moment, he said there wasn’t other cheaper options other than the insulated plasterboard as he didn’t want to use it as bloody expensive and obviously in contract with him I think the order went in when we spoke. Basically covid and Brexit we are going to really suck at this rate.. plus that’s really what made us hurry up, didn’t feel we were in good conditions to be organising the perfect design. What can we do now that we’re probably already stuck with the insulated plasterboard design?