markc

The ICF and concrete core will not be waterproof, but i would still be looking at waterproofing the structure before back filling.

As they are embedded in concrete i would be using good quality stainless ties. The interface between concrete and blocks is a prime corrosion point. Re-bar is ok unprotected because it is fully encased in concrete at all times. The ties will still be holding the inner and outer block work together long after the concrete has set.

It all depends on what you are looking for, there is no perfect one-stop-shop for anything really. The big suppliers lure you in with great prices on some stuff and then get their magin back on other - hence using different suppliers

Got to agree with the above, as a new build, why go for secondary water management instead of building waterproof in the first pl;ace. Then the toilet could go through a maceration pump and save a lot of work

I dont know of any part of the regs specifically requiring a switch (other than fixed appliances like hobs etc which must have a means of isolation). Pulling the plug serves as an isolation for portable appliances but a faulty appliance can create a pretty decent arc on disconnect and its not pleasant when its behind the plug you are pulling

yes, friends and customers have an old well established plant hire company, also sells small tools etc and they have had their best year since they started

Limited amount of goods coming out of china still, plus demand is at an all time high. Timber still in short supply due to the mills being closed when covid hit and they thought demand would slump .... but it went the opposite way. Copper price is on the increase as demand climbs

The pivots shown above would be ok if the door is fairly light. I would forget the support wheel and get a local engineering place to make up a couple of pivots with bearings in them. Or you could use self aligning flange mounted bearings and stub shafts top and bottom. Several possibilities dependant upon door weight and what you have to play with structure and space wise top and bottom

morning and nope, personal choice, although underground brown is often used because it resembles clay pipes so easier to distinguish from ducts

yes! you will definitely thank yourself for putting them in during construction

You will need diamond disks anyway to grind a large flat surface

I cant see any reason as the roof pitch will be steep and water should fall off without any problem

Assuming the tiles will be fairly large format then you need a good solid slab that will not move. Build up similar to a house footing but you dont need the insulation. Plenty of well compacted stone/hardcore, blind if not crusher run, concrete with starter bars into the existing slab to prevent movement at the door threshold

The pipe the sensor is in is burried in the slab, the tube and air in it will be at the same temp as the slab. sensor doesnt have to be in contact with the concrete or screed

If a sensor fails you pull it out of the tube and slide in a replacement.

On a very big project then a QS would be a worthwhile expense but on an extension and £120K ish then i would say no. Im sure you can list all the materials and items needed in a few hours and make a decent guess at what it will cost. A QS comes into their own when there are big/many changes to a project. If you are unsure of a few things, ask on here

Unless you manage to get the sand cement coat to a polished finish then plaster will stick ok.

Frame is possibly pitch pine, try white spirit, or it is possible the primer was shellac based in which case only methalated spirits will dissolve it

welcome to the wealth of info that is Buildhub,

To fit a pocket door into a brick wall needs a double size hole (one for the door and one for the pocket). that will need a serious lintel to support the brickwork, plus whats above it if its a structural wall.

Thick slab equals more thermal mass, slower to warm up but more stable temperature.

Locating and digging up a waste pipe is definitely outside the scope of a bathroom fitter, more general builder and as its internal this will involve making access through floors etc. not an easy or low cost job

Intumescent paint can often be used in place of fire board, however many SE`s are wary as application greatly affects its performance. UB and UC sections require different paint to Flat sided Hollow sections and steel preparation and primer application are critical to effectiveness against fire. Paint (film) thickness requirement must be determined and the dry film thickness measured to ensure compliance. Fire board may seem fiddly but its pretty foolproof and easily seen for sign off purposes

As wet plaster dries, it dries at different rates so you see lines, board outlines, cable chases etc. as different shades. Let it dry slowly, do not throw loads of heat into the rooms or it will crack. when its dry then look and feel what its like. a bit of minor sanding is to be expected in places

No, its quite normal