markc

The soil would have been whatever was at hand. I recently ripped out a kitchen floor in a victorian house. Under the pitch it was a randon mix of existing soil, stone rubble and what looked like boiler ash - presumably from the nearby railway. No mixing or thought went into it, simply levelled (very roughly and capped with pitch before the tiles

Ott for this job but the best paint stripper (apart from evil commercial stuff) ive come across. We use it for stripping paint from aluminium frames. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252293002518

Hello and welcome

on my jobs they do

You can add as many extra sockets to a radial as you want as long as you feed them of a fused unit after the radial socket ... hope that make sense. I.E if you added a fused spur (13a) you could run extra sockets from that supply ... like plugging in a 4 /4/10way extension lead. You cant just duplicate the first one tho.

Changing the internal and external lights is no problem, but you cannot add extra sockets to the 16a spur

Most of them were returned for a refund or thrown in the bin shortly after purchase and use. No need for a poker for this job, just tap the mould with a hammer etc. The top return and drip groove strip will cause air to be trapped at the top, drill a series of holes around the top flange to allow the mix to reach the soffit of the mould.

Bit late now but a good rule of thumb is : unless the doors are standard, make the frame to fit the door, much harder to find a door to fit an existing frame.

Definitely speak to the Glulam supplier. Unlikely the timbers will be treated but they could be. As above, Sika do do (odd english) make a very good but messy product for high strength wet tolerant bonding

Bull float is technically a steel trowel finish, really depends what the finished floor will be....an industrial floor will be left as is so power floating would be done a few hours later .

1mm is nothing, factory cutting for Pozi`s is +/- 2mm. hence the 5mm gap note

That is nothing to be concerned about, the parapet and walls will prevent wind from drying the water. Only worry if it gets near the top of the flashing

Really dont envy you trying to find the source of your water ingress, so many possibilities - all those mentioned previously plus it could be getting in via the window/cill then down behind the render (presume that is a rendered patch) and under the roof material that way

I would build a kiosk, meter box at one side just for the meter. At the side/above mount your CU and leave tails plenty long enough (meter installers love an easy install with nice long tails). Then you or your site guys can open the kiosk (this can have lockable door) and get to the supply without going into the meter enclosure

meter tails are (should be) double insulated so dont need trunking/conduit. If using 25mm tails you will struggle to get them into a 32mm gland. The stuffing on tails etc into a CU isnt for IP rating is for fire rating/retarding. The caravan type units generally dont have a big enough main switch for an incoming supply so a CU is the best bet.

3000 litres sounds a lot but in reality it is only 3 cubic metres. Harvested water for the garden, washing cars etc. is great, i do have reservations regarding its use around the house, maybe someone can answer my concerns regarding standing bacteria and algae etc. is this likely to be a problem in cisterns and washing machines?

Mapei is my go-to adhesive, never had a problem (apart from some very dusty slate when i "forgot" to wet them ..... sapped the moisture out of the adhesive and didnt stick, but that was my fault

Good morning and welcome

A 1st fix gun will be far too big for this job. (1st fix is timber framing, 2nd fix is floor boards, skirts, Arch`s etc.) Just to clarify the previous post, nailing through the tongue should be pushing the board down onto the other board, not up. Tongues to the top, grooves down to shed water

Doesnt need an SE to say that is in a very bad state and well on its wall to falling. It needs sorting ASAP. If it was mine i would add temp prop supports to prevent it falling.

Fantastic machine for thistles and gauze etc.

Yes its a Tang, hole drilled in the handle under size, tang heated and then pushed into the timber to burn a perfectly sized and shaped hole. Sometimes a small amount of tree resin or hoof glue was used to fix handles in place after burning.

Chop the plug off and fit a UK 3 pin in its place

I totally agree with you, Brickies seem a law unto themselves and its too easy to get a bad one, or more.

Blinding is nothing more than a layer that is a free draining surface that wont damage the DPM etc. resting on it. nothing wrong with using up sand, sharp is better/easier to use/compact