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Everything posted by markc
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Bit late now but a good rule of thumb is : unless the doors are standard, make the frame to fit the door, much harder to find a door to fit an existing frame.
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Definitely speak to the Glulam supplier. Unlikely the timbers will be treated but they could be. As above, Sika do do (odd english) make a very good but messy product for high strength wet tolerant bonding
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Bull float is technically a steel trowel finish, really depends what the finished floor will be....an industrial floor will be left as is so power floating would be done a few hours later .
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1mm is nothing, factory cutting for Pozi`s is +/- 2mm. hence the 5mm gap note
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That is nothing to be concerned about, the parapet and walls will prevent wind from drying the water. Only worry if it gets near the top of the flashing
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Really dont envy you trying to find the source of your water ingress, so many possibilities - all those mentioned previously plus it could be getting in via the window/cill then down behind the render (presume that is a rendered patch) and under the roof material that way
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I would build a kiosk, meter box at one side just for the meter. At the side/above mount your CU and leave tails plenty long enough (meter installers love an easy install with nice long tails). Then you or your site guys can open the kiosk (this can have lockable door) and get to the supply without going into the meter enclosure
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meter tails are (should be) double insulated so dont need trunking/conduit. If using 25mm tails you will struggle to get them into a 32mm gland. The stuffing on tails etc into a CU isnt for IP rating is for fire rating/retarding. The caravan type units generally dont have a big enough main switch for an incoming supply so a CU is the best bet.
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Rainwater harvesting tank
markc replied to Happy Valley's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
3000 litres sounds a lot but in reality it is only 3 cubic metres. Harvested water for the garden, washing cars etc. is great, i do have reservations regarding its use around the house, maybe someone can answer my concerns regarding standing bacteria and algae etc. is this likely to be a problem in cisterns and washing machines? -
Mapei is my go-to adhesive, never had a problem (apart from some very dusty slate when i "forgot" to wet them ..... sapped the moisture out of the adhesive and didnt stick, but that was my fault
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Good morning and welcome
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15mm T&G wood cladding - Fixing
markc replied to NewToAllOfThis's topic in General Construction Issues
A 1st fix gun will be far too big for this job. (1st fix is timber framing, 2nd fix is floor boards, skirts, Arch`s etc.) Just to clarify the previous post, nailing through the tongue should be pushing the board down onto the other board, not up. Tongues to the top, grooves down to shed water -
Underside of corbeled chimney breaking away - advice needed
markc replied to Neilos's topic in Brick & Block
Doesnt need an SE to say that is in a very bad state and well on its wall to falling. It needs sorting ASAP. If it was mine i would add temp prop supports to prevent it falling. -
No Mow May: Why you shouldn’t mow the lawn in May
markc replied to MAB's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Fantastic machine for thistles and gauze etc. -
Yes its a Tang, hole drilled in the handle under size, tang heated and then pushed into the timber to burn a perfectly sized and shaped hole. Sometimes a small amount of tree resin or hoof glue was used to fix handles in place after burning.
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Chop the plug off and fit a UK 3 pin in its place
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Blinding is nothing more than a layer that is a free draining surface that wont damage the DPM etc. resting on it. nothing wrong with using up sand, sharp is better/easier to use/compact
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Pretty much yes ... also cures colds, flu`s does the dishes and picks the kids up from school
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Yes the tiler should have a good idea, just needs to be a tough but remains elastic construction adhesive.
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what are you using as a floor finish? It would look so much neater if the floor finish continued over the EPS to door
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You could leave the membrane in place, secure the felt by wrapping over the edges and adhesive at the joint/lap over. A few nails wont hurt to prevent flapping and tearing in the wind (sounds like a line from a song).
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Planning permission on fence next to a listed building
markc replied to FRANKIE1's topic in Introduce Yourself
At 4ft or 1.2 metres it would be below the hedge level. -
Its just so difficult to estimate, even more so at the moment. Factors to consider are access for plant/digger etc, removal/disposal of excavated material, cost of materials, shortage of labour etc etc. Even the big contractors are offering sil;ly money to trades people to attract them to site (thats if they can get enough materials). Big shortages of materials across Europe due to demand so costing is a nightmare.
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It is! Basic materials, Timber and construction Plant is like rocking Horse poo right across Europe, at the moment. We have suppliers (Plant) in Europe asking if they can buy machines back and we could fill the trucks with any building materials available.
